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Dropped 5er with Pullrite SuperGlide?

MNRon
Explorer
Explorer
I recognize that the internet breeds paranoia. I've read several threads over the years about dropped fifth wheels on pickups, but another current thread got me to wondering. I have a Pullrite Superglide that I'm very happy with. The wrap-around jaws make it difficult to believe that they could release if closed properly, and it's hard to understand how they could be closed improperly.

All of that preamble is setting up the question. Has anyone actually dropped a fifth-wheel using a Pullrite Superglide? Not looking for "saw one dropped once" or "heard of one" etc. Just trying to understand if anyone has live experience with this problem when using a Pullrite.

As always, thanks.
Ron
Ron & Pat
2022 F350 Lariat CCSB SRW Diesel
2019 VanLeigh Vilano 320 GK
93 REPLIES 93

JIMMY034
Explorer
Explorer
Never noticed the date, but it wasn't very deep in the topics. Yes, I've not posted for a while, so I just assumed (I know...) that this was still a lively forum. I'm beginning to see how wrong I was. Did everyone give up RVing or something? This forum was never this dead when I used to be more active years ago.
2018 GMC Sierra Denali 2500 HD 4X4, 6.6L Duramax/Allison, Amsoil dual oil bypass filter system, Demco Recon 21K hitch. 2004 Puma 28' 5th wheel. USAF/Desert Storm Vet. CDL-A driver for Walmart.

MNRon
Explorer
Explorer
Wow! Haven’t really been following RV.net for last year very much. Just happened to look tonight and saw thread on dropping with a Superglide which intrigued me...imagine my surprise when I read the initial post and realized it was ME 4yrs ago 🙂

At that point I’d pulled our 5er for about a year and probably hitched/unhitched a couple dozen times. Thought I understood Superglide but obviously not as confident as I wanted to be. Thanks for everyone that helped boost my confidence in the hitch.

Since then we’ve pulled that HitchHiker, and now our Vilano 30-40k miles and hitched/unhitched well into 3 figure territory. Not going to tell others how to do it but our experience is great with a Superglide, I (and my wife usually) look to make sure the pin is wrapped with flange below jaws but never do pull test, nor do I do a tug test on my truck hood to make sure it’s latched each time I drive...I live dangerously 🙂

I do have to admit that we did high-hitch once which the visual test caught. Unfortunately this also bent the trigger which resulted in some messing with hookup and disassembling and bending back. Have to say that Pullrite was GREAT with support. When I called them they immediately sent me a replacement trigger AND a spare, fedex, at no charge. Did I say I LOVE this hitch and company?
Ron & Pat
2022 F350 Lariat CCSB SRW Diesel
2019 VanLeigh Vilano 320 GK

fj12ryder
Explorer II
Explorer II
"You're far more likely to drop with a split-jaw type, which still amazes me anyone still uses this design."

You've mentioned this in several posts in several threads. What, exactly, is a "split-jaw type"? I don't see how a hitch, other than a ball hitch, could work unless the jaws split apart to allow the hitch pin to enter.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

MFL
Traveler II
Traveler II
Actually it is Jimmy raised from the dead, since he just started posting after a long absence. He has years of catching up! 🙂

Jerry

spud1957
Explorer
Explorer
Don't think I've ever seen a thread raised from the dead after FOUR YEARS!!
2018 F350 6.7 4x4 CCSB
2022 GD Reflection 337 RLS

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
Cummins12V98 wrote:
johndeerefarmer wrote:
I have only had mine a few months. I always do the pull test but for added insurance have one of these. Lots cheaper than a tailgate and new sides for your truck bed.

http://www.5thwheellatchkit.com/



Look at the bottom pics on the site listed. It is a B&W hitch. If you have their product you would have to get your face right up there to install the bar with this product. So if all you did instead is LOOK at the jaws to see they are wrapped around the kingpin and the hitch and kingpin plates are touching and the hitch handle is closed and locked it can't come un hitched.

Put the bar in place is just another step just like doing a visual.



JIMMY034

See the pics I posted 4 years ago. Same thing today, B&W hitch is simply hitched and no need to do more than a "VISUAL" test. Handle closed and locked with jaws around kingpin = GOLDEN.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

JIMMY034
Explorer
Explorer
My last hitch was a Pullrite Super 5th, but since they didn't see it necessary to make mounting kits for newer trucks using older hitches, I went with a Demco Recon this time, and love it more. But I can't see how it could ever drop a trailer the way it's designed. It's idiot-proof. You're far more likely to drop with a split-jaw type, which still amazes me anyone still uses this design.
2018 GMC Sierra Denali 2500 HD 4X4, 6.6L Duramax/Allison, Amsoil dual oil bypass filter system, Demco Recon 21K hitch. 2004 Puma 28' 5th wheel. USAF/Desert Storm Vet. CDL-A driver for Walmart.

JIMMY034
Explorer
Explorer
What I can't understand is why so many are dead set against doing a pull test, or a tug-test as it's referred to in the trucking industry. It's cheap insurance...yet costs nothing. I'm glad you guys don't drive tractor-trailer with that carefree attitude.
2018 GMC Sierra Denali 2500 HD 4X4, 6.6L Duramax/Allison, Amsoil dual oil bypass filter system, Demco Recon 21K hitch. 2004 Puma 28' 5th wheel. USAF/Desert Storm Vet. CDL-A driver for Walmart.

COnative
Explorer II
Explorer II
Never had a problem. Keep the king pin a little lower than the hitch plate and let it ride up an inch or two. The release arm goes click and slams in. DONE... If it doesn't, you are not hitched prorperly. Adjust height of 5er, lower is better. Always do the pull test. simple insurance...
2014 RAM 3500 SRW Laramie Mega
2021 Lance 865
05 StarCraft Homestead Rancher 29BHTS 5er
Pullrite Slider hitch
Champion Remote Start 3100 Watt Inverter Gen Set
Champion 2000 watt inverter Gen Set
All torklift

Bellpr
Explorer
Explorer
I have a Pullrite and I have never had any issues with dropping the 5er. Been towing with it since 2002.

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
nineback,

I drilled the holes out and eased the hole edges with a countersink. I transferred those same pins to my new Companion shown in the pic above you posted.

I believe I drilled the holes to a larger size to fit the larger two padlocks that attach to the puck locks.

Yes I have been accused of being a lock-a-holic!
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Wayfarer
Explorer
Explorer
How did you get the locks through the pins. Mine only has holes large enough for carter pins. The locking lever has a hole larger enough for a lock.

Tom

Cummins12V98 wrote:
tinner12002 wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
jnharley wrote:
We had a Pullrite for 11 years and never had a problem with it. We now have a B&W hitch with the puck system in our new Dodge dually. We always do a pull test, we both visually check, and we do a light check. Safety is a priority for us and none of this takes more than a minute to accomplish.


I assume your RAM is newer than the 12 listed in your sig. 13 and newer RAM's have the puck system if ordered that way. Great option!

Your choice to do a pull test if you want but after doing your visual test and all looks correct no way can it unhitch. Of course you can if you so choose!

Is this what your hitch looks like?



I have the same setup mostly because of the hitches available for the new Ram factory setup. I have mine locked to bed but never thought about locks in pins and on locking handle...probably a good idea!


I think the locks are a good idea, some on here will tell you what a waste they are but hey do what works for you! Enjoy the Truck and hitch.
2021 Tiffin Wayfarer 25RW

Davidg53
Explorer
Explorer
This is why I like my B&W turnoverball and Goosebox. There is no doubt when that socket sits down over that 2 5/16" ball, and the lock lever snaps. There are several other reasons I like it, but this is one of the main ones.

Hannibal
Explorer
Explorer
Cummins12V98 wrote:
johndeerefarmer wrote:
up2nogood wrote:
Hannibal wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
johndeerefarmer wrote:
I have only had mine a few months. I always do the pull test but for added insurance have one of these. Lots cheaper than a tailgate and new sides for your truck bed.

http://www.5thwheellatchkit.com/


Look at the bottom pics on the site listed. It is a B&W hitch. If you have their product you would have to get your face right up there to install the bar with this product. So if all you did instead is LOOK at the jaws to see they are wrapped around the kingpin and the hitch and kingpin plates are touching and the hitch handle is closed and locked it can't come un hitched.

Put the bar in place is just another step just like doing a visual.



Same is true with the Reese two jaw hitch.



He fails to realize, that all hitches require these same steps. the two are touching, the jaw is closed ,and the handle is locked. Good grief there is nothing else, unfortunately some do not do all the correct things resulting in a dropped fifth wheel.


Just because the jaws are closed doesn't mean that it's locked. On the Pullrite the jaw can close around the visible part of the pin and it still might not be locked. Furthermore, I can visually see that my added latch kit is in fact latched- no ifs, ands or buts.


I understand your system and I may do the same if I had a SB truck.

I look at the jaws closed around the kingpin and then lock the handle closed. It can't come undone at that point with the hitch I pictured above.


Neither can the Reese. I do it every time.
2020 F250 STX CC SB 7.3L 10spd 3.55 4x4
2010 F250 XLT CC SB 5.4L 5spdTS 3.73
ex '95 Cummins,'98 12v Cummins,'01.5 Cummins,'03 Cummins; '05 Hemi
2017 Jayco 28RLS TT 32.5'

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
johndeerefarmer wrote:
up2nogood wrote:
Hannibal wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
johndeerefarmer wrote:
I have only had mine a few months. I always do the pull test but for added insurance have one of these. Lots cheaper than a tailgate and new sides for your truck bed.

http://www.5thwheellatchkit.com/


Look at the bottom pics on the site listed. It is a B&W hitch. If you have their product you would have to get your face right up there to install the bar with this product. So if all you did instead is LOOK at the jaws to see they are wrapped around the kingpin and the hitch and kingpin plates are touching and the hitch handle is closed and locked it can't come un hitched.

Put the bar in place is just another step just like doing a visual.



Same is true with the Reese two jaw hitch.



He fails to realize, that all hitches require these same steps. the two are touching, the jaw is closed ,and the handle is locked. Good grief there is nothing else, unfortunately some do not do all the correct things resulting in a dropped fifth wheel.


Just because the jaws are closed doesn't mean that it's locked. On the Pullrite the jaw can close around the visible part of the pin and it still might not be locked. Furthermore, I can visually see that my added latch kit is in fact latched- no ifs, ands or buts.


I understand your system and I may do the same if I had a SB truck.

I look at the jaws closed around the kingpin and then lock the handle closed. It can't come undone at that point with the hitch I pictured above.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD