Forum Discussion
- halfwrightExplorerIf you install new magnets and shoes, be sure to have the drums turned. If you do not, you will have very poor braking action until the magnets and shoes "wear in" to match the groove in the drum.
- GCastaExplorer
C Schomer wrote:
Gcasta, my Kodiaks came with oil covers so I went with oil. I wonder why you got dust covers for grease.
I re-used the original caps, my brakes did not come with any. No big deal, I don't mind using grease and dealing with the routine maintainence. In regards to oil bath I have read that if the trailer sits for a while the part of the bearing not submerged in oil has potential for corrosion. Also, if a seal does go out with oil bath it will destroy the bearings pretty quickly. I did look at that option but since I am not very familiar with it decided to just stick with what I know
Greg - C_SchomerExplorerGcasta, my Kodiaks came with oil covers so I went with oil. I wonder why you got dust covers for grease.
- Cummins12V98Explorer III"And since they are floating calipers no need to do any adjusting."
I would highly recommend everyone lubricate their slide bolts with the proper silicone grease along with mating metal surfaces every year.
Be sure to properly seat the brake pads. - GCastaExplorer
Just got done converting my Montana to disc last weekend. Took two days and mounting the rotor and calipers were no more difficult than changing out drum brakes. In fact was easier since everything was new and didn't have to clean anything up.
It was pretty easy to run the brake lines i just measured and got pre-flared lines in the proper length to avoid the hassle of flaring. Mounted the actuator in the front bay underneath the reservoir for the slide hydraulics.
Have not had a chance to really give it a good test yest but the little bit of driving I have done is WOW will NEVER use electric drums on a trailer again.
I went with the Kodiak 13" rotors standard finish with e-coat on caliper and mounting plate. Actuator is the Titan Brake-Rite EHB, both from Etrailer. Grat place to deal with.
Bearings are US made Timken bearings from Amazon and all the brake lines/fittings from local auto parts store
The cost is more, around 1,500 for complete setup not including installation vs. around 400 to replace drum brake pads with backing plate. This would assume your bearings, drums and wiring is all in serviceable condition.
The up side of disc is easier visual inspection of rotors, pads and grease seals. You don't even have to remove the wheels. And since they are floating calipers no need to do any adjusting.
If you can afford the cost difference and have some basic mechanical abilities or have a friend that does that might make it more affordable.
Here are some links to drums replacements you were considering and also to the disc setup I installed
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Dexter/23-464.html
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Kodiak/K2HR712.html
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Titan/T4813100.html - donn0128Explorer II
Specularius wrote:
donn0128 wrote:
Installation? The brakes them selves no more difficult than replacing drum brake assemblies. The hard part is locating the actuator and plumbing the brakes. You should be able to rent the proper flare tools. A good quality kit will come with everything you need.
I was making that statement because not everyone has the mechanical ability to perform the installation themself and would need to factor that cost in.
If going with the bigger brake shoes don't Forget the bigger drums too.
If a person is savvy enough to replace a drum brake they sure as heck are smart enough to change to disc brakes. In fact disc are easier with fewer moving parts - alboyExplorerDrums are the same.
- SpeculariusExplorer
donn0128 wrote:
Installation? The brakes them selves no more difficult than replacing drum brake assemblies. The hard part is locating the actuator and plumbing the brakes. You should be able to rent the proper flare tools. A good quality kit will come with everything you need.
I was making that statement because not everyone has the mechanical ability to perform the installation themself and would need to factor that cost in.
If going with the bigger brake shoes don't Forget the bigger drums too. - Cummins12V98Explorer III
Jimfromvirginia wrote:
donn0128 wrote:
Instead of spending a few dollars on new old technology, why not upgrade to disc brakes and tow happy and secure in its braking ability.
Sounds reasonable, but staying with electric brakes for simplicity. Looking at these Never Adjust, looking for opinions.
Look at the money you are spending on the electric now subtract that from the disk brake conversion.
Do the conversion and I will guarantee you will wish you had done it sooner! With disks no joke its like the trailer is not back there. - Cummins12V98Explorer III
Jimfromvirginia wrote:
donn0128 wrote:
Instead of spending a few dollars on new old technology, why not upgrade to disc brakes and tow happy and secure in its braking ability.
Sounds reasonable, but staying with electric brakes for simplicity. Looking at these Never Adjust, looking for opinions.
Look at the money you are spending on the electric now subtract that from the disk brake conversion.
Do the conversion and I will guarantee you will wish you had done it sooner! With disks no joke its like the trailer is not back there.
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