โOct-05-2014 08:06 PM
โOct-06-2014 06:15 PM
โOct-06-2014 05:17 PM
โOct-06-2014 09:24 AM
โOct-06-2014 08:01 AM
stro1965 wrote:If you have a portable battery charger rated 10+ amps this would be a good time to put it on the battery while you figure out what converter to buy.
The idiot lights indicate that my battery is now at 2/3 power. Great.
โOct-06-2014 07:58 AM
is it friday yet? wrote:Voltage protection and surge protection are two different things.
Is there any reason that a whole house surge protector, like this one from Home Depot, won't work? Like this one for instance.
โOct-06-2014 05:25 AM
is it friday yet? wrote:
Is there any reason that a whole house surge protector, like this one from Home Depot, won't work? Like this one for instance.
โOct-06-2014 05:04 AM
โOct-06-2014 04:50 AM
โOct-06-2014 04:26 AM
โOct-06-2014 03:02 AM
โOct-05-2014 09:12 PM
stro1965 wrote:If the house fuse panel and house battery are holding about 13.6 volts all is good.
At the risk of sounding stupid, how can I test my converter?
โOct-05-2014 09:06 PM
CA Traveler wrote:stro1965 wrote:It sounds like to me that because the twist lock plug wasn't seated you wound up with an open neutral on the 50A. You should give serious thought to installing a PI HW50C which would have protected the equipment.
Once I gave the connection a 1/4 turn and fully seated it, the outlets functioned normally.
Already replaced the TV and will pick up a microwave tomorrow. I'm concerned though, why didn't I trip breakers or blow fuses? Is there possibly something else wrong?
An open neutral can give you high/low voltage on either hot leg which sounds like your description.
An open neutral won't trip the CB's because they protect the 2 hot lines and not high/low voltage on the neutral.
โOct-05-2014 08:52 PM
โOct-05-2014 08:34 PM