I seem to have galled the lug threads, and destroyed the lug nuts, on my 5th wheel. I have religiously torqued the nuts to 120 ft- lbs as I was told years ago, but seem to have screwed up anyway. Looks as if I will have to have all 32 lugs repalaced, plus new lug nuts, of course.Have had a marathon of phone calls dealing with this, but one guy who seemed knowledgeable said I was torquing wrong. He said the torque wrench must be reset to zero after each use, otherwise the actual torque will "creep". He also said torque wrenches must be re-calibrated every couple of years, or the settings become meaningless.Should this "torqueing" be so complicated? Is there a better wrench than my old "clicker"? Another guy said forget torque wrenches, just tighten with a rachet until you feel resistance, drive 10 miles, and tighten just until you feel resistance, again. I'm beginning to lean his way?

If you have alloy wheels, definitely stick with the torque wrench. If you have steel wheels, not so much.

A really good torque wrench would be a snap-on, but you probably won't like the price. I use a Chinese one from HF and though it may not be quite as accurate, when I checked it against a known standard it wasn't far off. BTW if your fiver has half inch stud's I believe the proper torque is 100 ft lb.

I have had various torque wrenches over the years from the old beam type to the one I have currently. I have never had any problems with the studs on any of my wheels and never have had it calibrated. Years ago folks used air wrenches to put tires on before disc brakes became standard and problems were not that frequent. But to answer your question directly I am sure you can get state of the art torque wrenches today but in my experiences it really does not matter if it is exactly 120 or 122.5 as long as they are all close. I always torque to 100 foot lbs.

I use a Snap-on and it seems to work fine. Have had to replace a couple of studs over the years. They are not hard to do if you are inclined to do so.

It is a fact that you should return the setting to zero after each use to relax the spring. But I think testing has shown that a torque wrench left with a tight setting for extended periods actually puts less torque to the nut than it is set for.I also use a $10 Harbor Freight torque wrench for mine. I torque mine to 110, have for years, and never a problem. Each new season I check each nut and maybe find one or two that require just a nudge to get back to 110.

Good Torque Wrench? | Good Sam Community

Water-Bug
Explorer
Mar 15, 2014
If you have alloy wheels, definitely stick with the torque wrench. If you have steel wheels, not so much.
powderman426
Explorer
Mar 15, 2014
A really good torque wrench would be a snap-on, but you probably won't like the price. I use a Chinese one from HF and though it may not be quite as accurate, when I checked it against a known standard it wasn't far off. BTW if your fiver has half inch stud's I believe the proper torque is 100 ft lb.
Campinghoss
Explorer II
Mar 15, 2014
I have had various torque wrenches over the years from the old beam type to the one I have currently. I have never had any problems with the studs on any of my wheels and never have had it calibrated. Years ago folks used air wrenches to put tires on before disc brakes became standard and problems were not that frequent. But to answer your question directly I am sure you can get state of the art torque wrenches today but in my experiences it really does not matter if it is exactly 120 or 122.5 as long as they are all close. I always torque to 100 foot lbs.
SDM
Explorer
Mar 15, 2014
I use a Snap-on and it seems to work fine. Have had to replace a couple of studs over the years. They are not hard to do if you are inclined to do so.
BB_TX
Nomad
Mar 15, 2014
It is a fact that you should return the setting to zero after each use to relax the spring. But I think testing has shown that a torque wrench left with a tight setting for extended periods actually puts less torque to the nut than it is set for.
I also use a $10 Harbor Freight torque wrench for mine. I torque mine to 110, have for years, and never a problem. Each new season I check each nut and maybe find one or two that require just a nudge to get back to 110.
Cougarnewbie
Explorer
Mar 15, 2014
I torqued to 120# on my Keystone Cougar. Stripped out several lug bolts and ended up replacing all lug nuts. Friend who works on heavy machinery told me 90 to 100# is adequate. 120 # too much. Chraftsman click type.
spadoctor
Explorer
Mar 15, 2014
Over time every click type torque wrench need calibration. My Snap On got done annually when I turned wrenches for a living. The HF ones are just fine for what you want to do though. And yes 100ftlbs is correct value
Michelle_S
Explorer III
Mar 15, 2014
Hold the phone for a moment.
Everyone is giving torque specs, but did I miss where the OP listed what size studs they had?? 1/2 and 9/16 are two comment sizes, but some even have 5/8 studs. The torque will change depending on what lugs.
MFL
Nomad II
Mar 15, 2014
My owners manual, for my 6- bolt FW axles, says to torque to 95 ft lbs. I use a Craftsman wrench, that I do back off, to 20#s or less, after use.

I do agree, that leaving a wrench set at high torque, for long periods, will cause it to put out less torque than you are setting for.

Jerry
Bumpyroad
Explorer
Mar 15, 2014
Harbor freight coupon will get you $9.95 ones.
bumpy

Forum Discussion

Good Torque Wrench?

About Fifth Wheel Group

Related Content

Engine torque

Lug Nut Torque

Duramax Torque Management

Heartland Torque T32

Torque wars continue in the diesels