My Toy Hauler has the Eye-Bolts welded to the frame, to enable attaching cables to use the ramp door as an extension of the interior, but there is no attachment on the door. What is the best way to attach the cables to the door so it Will not damage the doorthe attachment point is easily accessibleDoesn't have to be removed to close the door (The Fastener not the cable)

That's surprisingly. Why did they install eye lots with no way to use them? Oh well- our TH - and others I've ones at - all have attaching points for the other end of the cable on the door. I'd suggest going to a dealer and looking at some on the showroom. Probably be easier than trying to explain it.

I'm good. I fabricated brackets that attach to the side of the door and to the front. Came out great!

https://www.google.com/search?q=toy+hauler+ramp+patio+kit&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=891&tbm=isch&imgil=xX8nxgjquoFR0M%253A%253Bs3PHoWFxDWIZwM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fforums.motorhomemagazine.com%25252Findex.cfm%25252Ffuseaction%25252Fthread%25252Ftid%25252F25809849%25252Fprint%25252Ftrue.cfm&source=iu&pf=m&fir=xX8nxgjquoFR0M%253A%252Cs3PHoWFxDWIZwM%252C_&usg=__APR8N1wopbdOIXqh4STu7KWm11E%3D&ved=0CCcQyjc&ei=xYtcVZvTDsvjoAT41oP4AQ#imgrc=xX8nxgjquoFR0M%253A%3Bs3PHoWFxDWIZwM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fi897.photobucket.com%252Falbums%252Fac172%252Fjetboater454%252FRamp%252520Patio%252FGaragelivingroom.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fforums.motorhomemagazine.com%252Findex.cfm%252Ffuseaction%252Fthread%252Ftid%252F25809849%252Fprint%252Ftrue.cfm%3B640%3B480

Why not use leveling stands under the ramp at the stops/bumpers and forgo the cables?

Bedlam wrote:Why not use leveling stands under the ramp at the stops/bumpers and forgo the cables?Cables are easier, smaller to transport and the ramp is always level. With stands on uneven ground might need to shim, etc.

Haulers using cables for Ramp Door (Screen Room)

Bedlam
Moderator
May 21, 2015
I don't think the doors are any different, but the manufacturers have the benefit of knowing how and where the structure lies in the ramp so they can tie to it. Two jack stands worked for me but I had a 2x4 or 2x6 at 45 degree angle at each far corner between the jack and ramp.
debraindi
Explorer
May 21, 2015
Bedlam wrote:
nayther wrote:
Bedlam wrote:
Why not use leveling stands under the ramp at the stops/bumpers and forgo the cables?

Cables are easier, smaller to transport and the ramp is always level. With stands on uneven ground might need to shim, etc.

I didn't think the nested jacks took up that much space plus the ramp is much more secure when supported from underneath than when hung off cables (it may depend on the strength of your TH stabilizers). We used to use automotive jack stands because we had them along when working on toys, but these are infinitely adjustable and light:

I have 3 just like that and they work very good with my old fleetwood toy hauler. We have an new Impact fusion toy hauler. It did not come with the patio kit, I'm thinking of a way to install cables to have the patio.Are the doors reinforced better with the factory patio kits?

I saw someone with one of these mounted on their ramp exterior and it worked surprisingly well:
HTElectrical
Explorer
May 21, 2015
Couple Pics
1L243
Explorer II
May 20, 2015
I'm not that brave. I was just drawing a obvious conclusion on jack stands in sand would not work that well. Probably why most Patio Toy Haulers that can do dunes are using cables. I don't do sand dunes and paddle tires won't fit on my Harley.. Sandy soil maybe....
Bedlam
Moderator
May 20, 2015
1L243, you're braver than me and must have different tow vehicle setup. My toy hauler was a fat pig in sand and only worked well as an anchor, my enclosed trailer does not have the clearance to make it over the whoops and my last two vehicles run 19.5" tires which love to dig rather than float. Sand camping didn't even cross my mind although we boondock at least once a year in the desert.
1L243
Explorer II
May 20, 2015
My popular camping spot I can put the ramp right out over the river. And if camping on sand or at the dunes ramp stands don't work very well.
8mmFMJ
Explorer
May 20, 2015
I use 2 old scissor jacks I got from the pick a part out of toyota trucks for 5$ each. Infinitely adjustable, even with a bunch of stuff on it.
Bedlam
Moderator
May 20, 2015
nayther wrote:
Bedlam wrote:
Why not use leveling stands under the ramp at the stops/bumpers and forgo the cables?

Cables are easier, smaller to transport and the ramp is always level. With stands on uneven ground might need to shim, etc.

I didn't think the nested jacks took up that much space plus the ramp is much more secure when supported from underneath than when hung off cables (it may depend on the strength of your TH stabilizers). We used to use automotive jack stands because we had them along when working on toys, but these are infinitely adjustable and light:

I saw someone with one of these mounted on their ramp exterior and it worked surprisingly well:
1L243
Explorer II
May 20, 2015
I used the cable assist brackets already installed on the ramp. When I did this originally I used chain because I thought it would be easier to store..Did not like the look and went to cable.

Now coming up with plan for railing

Top used half inch eye bolt bolted through steel frame

Ramp
nayther
Explorer
May 20, 2015
Bedlam wrote:
Why not use leveling stands under the ramp at the stops/bumpers and forgo the cables?

Cables are easier, smaller to transport and the ramp is always level. With stands on uneven ground might need to shim, etc.