Help with pickup for 5th wheel

I have narrowed my search down to a couple of 5ers that have similar specs:
Dry wt = 12,000 lbs
payload = 3195 lbs
GVWR = 15,500 lbs
hitch wt = 2555 lbs

EDIT: Wouldn't you know it. Just after posting, I found another 5er that is a possibility. Only difference is the GVWR is 16,200 lbs and the Hitch weight is 2860 lbs.

So, would this be a SRW or DWR, and 3/4 or 1 ton?

I do have some experience towing. I know it's different, but I have many hours towing (and backing) a ski boat. Also, when I was in the military, I was assigned to drive a 55 passenger bus. It was a diesel pusher with AT. I am also considering a 39 foot Class A in addition to the 5er. It's a little intimidating when you think about driving a Class A, although with some time behind the wheel, it should come easier. This is one reason I am leaning toward the 5er. That, and the fact that I could use a pickup for other things.

A dual wheel (DW) base give you not only the ability to pull a larger trailer/5th wheel but also the stability in the wind Vic a single rear wheel (SRW) pickup ...

One of the biggest things people forget is the Dealer you buy your trailer from, be it used or new, there are pages and pages of how owners bought a new or used trailer and the dealer service is horrible ... The best warranty is no good if the dealers service department is truly bad and hard to get anything done or the work is really bad .....

Again before you buy check out the service the dealer provides, I can say it enough no matter what the brand of trailer you buy... I would go a couple of hundred miles if service is good instead of buying local where the service pr warranty work is bad ! ! !

1) Do I really need a dually? No, if you stay below 14,000lbs loaded, AND your pin weight is within the truck's specs.

2) Will I need a one ton truck or will a 3/4 ton work? You need a one ton, and the newer the better, because of engine and transmission improvements.

3) Can I use a swb, or will I need a lwb? A short bed will likely require a sliding hitch. A manual slider is okay but I'll guarantee there will come a time when you forget to get out and manually slide. Factor in extra cost for an auto slider or repairs to your truck and fiver.

4) Generator. Some FWs are prewired for gensets. OTOH, adding a genset in the front basement adds significantly to pin weight. If you're going to do a lot of boondocking you will need one. I suggest an inexpensive Champion 3400, or other brand, which is adequate to run one 15k AC, and recharge your batteries in the AM.

With most 5er's a one ton diesel either single or dual will handle the loads of all but the heaviest.
You haven't said what experience you have in towing. Have you ever towed anything close to that size? It's not necessary but a few years experience in towing stuff makes a world of difference in how you look at the trailers and trucks.

Also would ask if you have had any type of RV in the past,
What type of camping are you intending to do? Resorts, BLM, there are a lot of differences. Genny qx makes it appear you may be thinking boondocking if so, tank sizes become an issue so look to those.

If towing will be a new thing for you, I'd suggest a one ton diesel with at least a 6.5 bed and get a used 5er smaller than what you mentioned and spend a year travelling with it, become accustomed to towing and then decide on a nicer one to keep long term.

welcome to the forum.
Trucks don't tow trailers determined by the trailers length nor does length determine a trailer weight.
Generally a 37-40' 5th wheel trailer for full timing will have multi slide outs and be very heavy....so its decision time for you to decide on the floorplan you want.
Then once the trailers GVWR and dry weight gross weight is determined we can help you with a tow truck.

The one ton DRW trucks will handle GN/5th wheel trailers 30000+ lbs with the right engine/tranny/gearing package.

A 3/4 ton truck with around 2800-3200 lb payload in the bed is out of the running for a heavy 40' 5th wheel trailer. And on the other side you don't need a class 8 tractor to pull that size trailer.....unless you just want one.

A one ton SRW can have up to 3800 lb payload in the bed before exceeding axle/tire/wheel/rear spring pack ratings

And of course a one ton DRW can have up to 6500+/- lb payload in the bed. Good hunting

Consider renting an RV for a month. Try the lifestyle and talk to people in the campgrounds. Maybe you won't like it, maybe you want a class a or c, or maybe a travel trailer. Maybe you want to take a boat or race car with you, so maybe a truck camper. Dip in a toe before you jump in.

I forgot to address the part where you said try it for several months? If you are buying new and decide to sell after a year or so you will take a bad hit. In that case buy used. If you do try it and then only use the rig part time you may have $100 or more in monthly storage.

If you take your time and shop you can get into older FW in good condition for $10,000. If you sold it a year later you would have far less loss. They also say if you are not handy have a lot of money. Even if I wanted to spend my money and pay someone, I cant imagine going through that much hassle.

If shopping for used water damage is your number one concern. If you by new look it cover very carefully for potential water leaks. It's not uncommon for people to have water damage after a few years because the new rv leaked from day one.

In my opinion you should get a one ton diesel dually, takes all the issues out of towing with a SRW because its ready right out of the box to pull and handle most pin weights out there. Eight foot bed, B&W 5th wheel hitch rated to next weight rating over your gross weight of the camper your looking at, 16000 lb RV get a 18000 lb rated hitch. Generator, well that's another issue. Onboard Onan gen has a lot of pluses, but also some minuses on a standard 5h wheel. On 5th wheel they are usually propane powered unless you can get dealer to add a gas tank in the rear underbelly of your RV which most 5th wheel toy haulers come with, propane gens will use most of your onboard propane but they are said to run cleaner than gas. If you only have one AC on your RV then you could get by with 2 Honda 2000I or equivalent brands and carry them and hook them together to run your RV. If your planning on staying in RV parks most of the time then you might be ok with the onboard propane gen, otherwise look at the gas option and/or the portable gen option. Another option would possibly be to look at the 40-42 ft toy hauler floorplans as they have bigger waste and fresh water tanks, most already have onboard gas tanks with gens wired and ready to go, have a little less living space if you use the garage as a garage but most have carpet packages to use the garage as additional living space.

37 to 40 ft and full time? You want a one ton and may well need a dually. I have 3500 CC SB SRW CTD pulling a 12,500 FW and a 2,700 lb utility trailer so a total of about 15,200 and 64 ft long. My trucks payload is about 3,900 and between the pin weight, pullrite sliding hitch, 3000 Honda etc I'm carrying about 3,500.

If all 15,200 was in a FW I'm guessing my SRW would be about maxed out and I'd then need a dually. My truck is 4x4 with 3:42 gears so I run in 5th gear. When not towing I can get 22.x mpg with it.

I use a pullrite 18,000 super slide hitch with a short bed because my older FW is a flat front and 102" wide. Some people do get by with a short bed and no slider but have newer FW with rounded corners and are very careful.

I mounted my remote start Honda 3000 at front of truck bed and run an 8 gauge cord back to a transfer switch. I also made the cord long enough so that I can park hood to pin and not hear the generator inside FW. I have a 2000 prowatt inverter for my 40 in led television, residential frig and other gadgets. I still run the generator to power the ac, micro, hairdryer. At times I will use the inverter to make toast.

I run six GC2 batteries and 1000 watts of solar panels. In the dead of winter running the house furnace, several hours of television, satellite, led lights, fan, laptops etc it's always charged up. Tilted panels of course.

When shopping for a truck pay attention to tire sizes, payload, axle ratio, and transmission model. They gave very good advice up above, learn all you can and shop slowly. You are in the top range of towing so dont let rv dealers convince you that a 3/4 is good enough. In my opinion anyway.

You might tow with a 3/4 if you found an ultra light 36' and dont carry much. My son is pulling a 35' FW bunk @ about 10,400 and his 2140 lb pay load/pin weight is maxed out. 2012 Ram 2500 CTD CC 4x4 long bed. He says it pulls better than his 26 ft TT did but for the size that is a light FW. He could pull more but has run out of pin which is common for a 3/4 ton. Good luck to you and see you in the desert. :)

Decide on the camper you want first then take those weights and decide on a truck.

Just for reference i have a 2015 Ram 3500 SWB, SRW with the cummins and aisin trans. I pull my 42' Fifth wheel that is 12,700 empty with no issues. She is close to 14k loaded. Fair amount of my driving is in the mountains and windy roads. I use a standard non sliding hitch and have no issues what so ever with turning.

If you are thinking of adding a generator or ordering a camper with one i recommend getting an 8'bed. With a generator you lose most of the storage in that bay and the bed could make up for it.