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She did not turn the hot water tank on without water . Read my previous posts, everything is fine.

Memphisdoug wrote:
I'm not understanding what running water into the toilet has to do with the hot water heater?

She has two issues:

She flooded the rig by propping the toilet flush pedal into the flush position which eventually overfilled into the camper.
She turned the hot water tank on without water in it and damaged something.

Thanks for posting back with update!

Doing the toilet with drain closed flooded the trailer floors which I stated. The water running out of the trailer probably wet the stat contacts and when it over heated the relief valve dumped the water.
Later in the day I cleaned and blew out the stat contacts.
She tried it today and all is fine.
Thanks Old Biscuit for the stat info.

IF water heater overheated......
Pressure in tank could force water back out the cold inlet

Then when T&P Relief Valve opened the pressure would BLOW water and Steam out until T&P Closed.


But until OP replies back with answers to questions raised........?????

That description doesn't make sense. Pressure relief valves are usually at the top of the water heater tank so they just bleed off pressure, not the water. I have never seen a water heater tank, RV or home that didn't have the pressure relief valve at the top of the tank. If her hot water tank was drained, it wasn't through the pressure relief valve.

I'm not understanding what running water into the toilet has to do with the hot water heater?

M.R.E. wrote:
She has a '06 SunnyBrook . Atwood model #GC10A-4E. She was using electric power.

M.R.E. wrote:
She wasn't using black tank flush, Just had a weight on pedal.

So no hot water was flowing.....all flow was via cold water line to toilet

Water heater GC10A-4E uses ONE set of t-stat/ECO to control heating for both electric and propane
*T-stat SHOULD have stopped all heating when water temp reached 140*F
*ECO (Energy Cut Off/HI Temp) SHOULD have shut down ALL heating when water temp reached 180*F and 'locked it out' plus triggered RED Fault Light
*T&P Relief Valve OPENS when water temp reaches 210*F and/or 150 PSI


Now did the T&P OPEN or just WEEP?

Both t-stat & ECO would need to fail in the CLOSED position for continued heating.......RARE.
Typically those preset snap disc t-stats fail OPEN....no heating

Did she have the RED Fault Light? and have to Reset ON/OFF for it to heat again?

IF T&P Popped Open and spewed water/steam then need to replace t-stat/ECO---come as a set

She wasn't using black tank flush, Just had a weight on pedal.

She has a '06 SunnyBrook . Atwood model #GC10A-4E. She was using electric power.