Hitch size

[pharmafrog]

All.

Quick question. You would think I could make my own decision on this, but I turn to you guys for a bit of advice. I am upgrading both my TV and 5'er. The new TV has an under bed mount for the hitch so i am selling my current Reese slider and getting a new one. Here is the question:

New TV is 2014 F350 DRW 8' Crew blown out. New 5'er is the Cyclone 4100 King. It has a GVWR of 18,000. Do I just go with a 18K Hitch or would you go bigger always knowing you are not getting close to the hitch weight rating?? Not really knowing about the engineering of 5'er hitches, I am not sure if they are over engineered or rated pretty close to their advertised number. What is the real difference in the 18 vs 20 or 25k?

Thanks.

[jerem0621]

pharmafrog wrote:
I have the OEM Puck system in the bed. So, no torquing.

That OEM system looks so simple to use. Drop in the hitch And turn 4 levers, lock the levers and you are done!

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[pharmafrog]

I have the OEM Puck system in the bed. So, no torquing.

[jerem0621]

MFL wrote:
No torquing

Jerry

Depends on what Companion Hitch we are talking about.

This is not accurate per the B&M instructions for the companion with the turn over ball gooseneck.... The draw-down bolt must be torqued to 60 lb ft every time the hitch is put in the truck.

If using the OEM Companion with the Ford Fifth Wheel prep package then no torquing is required. It just depends on which application we are looking at because the mounting system is different.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[MFL]

No torquing

Jerry

[pharmafrog]

jerem0621 wrote:

One issue for some with the B&W is that you have to torque down a few bolts in order to be installed correctly.
Jeremiah

I am not sure what needs to be torqued down, it looks like you drop it in and rotate the levers to the center and pin. What part needs to be torqued, and does it need it every time?

[jerem0621]

Reese makes good products. They make some very nice fifth wheel hitches. However, reese has moved some production to China.

What's nice about B&W is that they are made in the USA. That by itself doesn't mean you should buy the product. But their product really is outstanding.

The fifth wheel hitch head Jaws are machined as a matched pair. The jaws are not just pulled from a parts bin and slept on the hitch. The release mechanism is designed to be able to easily release even under a binding situation.

One issue for some with the B&W is that you have to torque down a few bolts in order to be installed correctly.

With standard rails you just drop the fifth wheel hitch in and pin it in and you are done.

If you are going with fifth wheel rails that new Reese Titan 20k looks really nice.

My personal experience excludes B&W, but I do have experience with a single jaw Husky 16k and a Single Jaw Curt 20k slider. Both of those hitches also performed flawlessly, both fit in standard fifth wheel rails.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[pharmafrog]

Talk to me about the B&W, always used reese hitches to this point.

[jerem0621]

OP.. you said that the new truck is blown out.. I am going to assume loaded...

How about the fifth wheel prep package?

If so, I would spring for this hitch and never worry about this issue again..

B&W OEM Companion

This hitch has a 20k trailer and a 5k vertical load rating.

If you don't have the Fifth Wheel prep package then you have a few options...

Gooseneck and fifth wheel adaptor or fifth wheel above bed rails and standard fifth wheel hitch.

I would make sure that you get at least enough hitch capacity to have excess capacity.... I would look seriously at a B&W Companion or something else in the 20k capacity range for this rig.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[pharmafrog]

Answered my own question.

[pharmafrog]

Water-Bug wrote:
Buy the hitch to match the capability of the TV. Then you can safely tow anything that your truck is rated to tow and won't be tempted to tow anything larger. Why buy a vehicle that can tow *****lbs and not have a hitch that can handle it? Why buy a hitch rated at more than your vehicle can safely tow? The answer to your question is obvious when you think about it.

Very good way to think about it (don't know why I didn't), without blasting me. I appreciate the info. The cost is a small factor, but safety and common sense are worth the extra dime.

[Water-Bug]

Buy the hitch to match the capability of the TV. Then you can safely tow anything that your truck is rated to tow and won't be tempted to tow anything larger. Why buy a vehicle that can tow *****lbs and not have a hitch that can handle it? Why buy a hitch rated at more than your vehicle can safely tow? The answer to your question is obvious when you think about it.

[jjj]

I recommend the heaviest you can get or afford. I have a 14000 gvw fiver and I upgraded to a curt Q-5 20000 lb hitch. I believe you can never be too safe. I would rather be over in size than just close too it.

[MFL]

Like anything that is weight rated, you'd expect the higher rating to be built stronger.

Usually the heavier weighted model will also have a higher pin weight rating.

In your case any of the three would work. If you have the Ford FW prep package, I would suggest the B&W for Ford OEM. It is a great hitch, and rated for 20K.

Jerry