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Pest007's avatar
Pest007
Explorer
Feb 07, 2014

How do you remove a rear lift bed?

Looking to pull out the rear lift bed on my 2002 Weekend warrior FS2600. I need to remove it so I can modify th box and make it sit higher so I can clear the roof on my 2014 Teryx4 . looking to raise it from the current 72" (floor to bottom of bed now) to at least 78" Should have plenty of room, I just never had to take the bed box out... any tips, tricks?? It has 4 gas lift struts...
  • That would be a good way to do it as well, I just didn't want to mess with removing the shade covers and all those screws for the L bracket - but separating the bottom from the box wasn't too bad. It only took a few hours from removal to how you see it there. I haven't put it back in but looking forward to doing it soon. I made one mistake and didn't measure to make sure that each side was perfectly aligned and I noticed that after I finish it, that the left side panel is about 1/2" futher back than the right one.... so not sure If I have to relocate it to get it perfectly square...
  • Looks good. I finished raising my bed on Monday. I took a different approach than you. I basically just took a 2x6 and stuck it between the metal L-bracket and the top lip of the bed; essentially raising the whole bed platform 5 1/2" in relation to the supporting L-bracket.

    I decided to complete the project in-place rather than removing the bed to work on it. It wasn't easy getting all of the screw out that holds the L-bracket to the bed platform, but it did save me from performing surgery on the bed platform as you did.

    Again, great job! It must have been quite a chore taking it all apart and putting it back together, while making it look as good as you did.
  • Here is a pic of it, it's flipped upside down, but you can see where I cut it and moved it to sit closer to the metal rails. hope to have it sitting around 80-80 inches from the floor



  • Yes, I completed the modification, but have yet to put it back in since I need some extra man power to get it in place and the manpower to do it. I will try and add them on and post them
  • Pest007, I would love to see pictures of your bed modification as I plan to modify my bed as well. My plan is to move the angle iron piece, that the gas struts attach to, down 10 inches on the platform by attaching a 2"x4" piece of oak down the length of the bed platform for it to sit on top of the angle iron piece. The other thing I'll have to do is move the bed forward 4" from it's original position to allow for a change in pivot point of the platform when it raises to the ceiling, as well as raising the blinds for the windows above the bed. The benefit to doing it this way (I hope) is that I can leave the bed where it sits and raise it onto 2x4 supports when I'm ready to install the oak runner where the angle iron will sit. I've done enough modifications to know that they rarely go as smooth as assumed. Good luck finishing your bed mod.
  • I was able to get it out, and man, it IS heavy, even with 4 of us lifting, it took a bit to man handle it down and out. I completely rebuilt the box, I 1st removed the sides, and then the rear and front panel - cut 4" off the bottom of the sides, then remounted the "base" that the mattress sits on up 10" from it's original position. cut out the rear panel to match and mounted and screwed everything back together... it looks great - just waiting on my buddies to come back so I can lift it back up - all in all I'm hoping to get at least 10" higher than before and should now clear 80" from floor to bottom of the bed when in the up position
  • if its the one that has gas assist struts and raises and lowers by hand, i would get some wooden block cut in the size you want to raise it

    set them on the front and rear lower mounting pads and make sure the geometry will work in this configuration. at this point you might get by, fastening the block to the pad.

    if it works but you still need to move pad up, leave the bed hang on the top pads and brace the back of the bed with something to keep it from falling.

    you should be able to move the lower pad up now. i think the rear lower stop pad is welded to the back door frame. you might get away with leaving the angel iron that the struts mount to in place. the struts just won't have to collapse as far when lowering now. going from memory as my trailer is in storage and can't look at it

    ours was broken and jammed up when we got it. trust me, you don't want to take it up down or out of the trailer with out it attached to mounts or 4 strong lads on each corner. even with the mattress out and frame empty it is unwieldy and hard to handle
  • Even if my Teryx had no wheels, it wouldn't fit, and I've done the cage chop on my old rhino... I rather solve the problem then change everything I have.

    I don't see anything that it's bolted to, just has 2 roller wheels on the back side and the 4 gas struts that keep it in place - I'm fairly sure I can get it out as long as I can get the rear rollers out of their guide... I will give it a shot tomorrow
  • Before doing that have you checked to see if you can clear by taking some air out of the teryx tires and or a lower cage....just weight all your options first.

    Sorry I couldn't really help with your question.