Forum Discussion

Ndcntryboy's avatar
Ndcntryboy
Explorer
Sep 19, 2014

How to properly and safely lift a 5er?

I have a bone stock 2010 f350 srw and just bought a 2000 Dutchman classic 26' 5er and it sits high in front and way low in back! I don't want to buy a lower truck or a higher 5er! The hitch and trailer are right about 6-8" from the bed like it is suppose to be, but still to high? I don't like the trailer riding on the rear axle more. I towed for 10+ yrs and seen a lot of campers always blow the rear axle tire/tires. So how do I properly raise the camper just enough to level? Blocks are not safe, and unsure right now if axles are on or under springs? I know a axle flip is the best, but if my axles are under the spring then what?
Thanks
  • Sea_Six's avatar
    Sea_Six
    Explorer
    Sep 20, 2014
    I had the same problem with my 2007 2500hd and my 2001 Jayco Designer.

    I wound up moving the rv wheel ride height adjustment setting up two positions to very nearly level out the fiver. The guy who did the work said he didn't recommend flipping the axles in my case.
  • michigancougar's avatar
    michigancougar
    Explorer
    Sep 19, 2014
    getting ready to try lifting mine too - got a quote on the 6" lift from a welding shop then found I could order 4" drop axles from dexter manufactured to be flipped for a 4" raise - should get me most of the way to the 6" with the 1.5" lower feet I ordered from pullrite for the hitch. added benefit is I will have new bearing,brakes, springs on a 10 yr old camper that is probably due anyways. just food for thought
  • Peg_Leg's avatar
    Peg_Leg
    Explorer
    Sep 19, 2014
    Here's the $86 Adjustable Height Option that came on my 5er.

    The equalizer adjust is only 2 positions.


    The shock adjust is shown in the middle position.
    The holes are spaced 2" apart.


    The spring end adjustments are boxed on the end away from the axle. 1/4" steel was used for all mounts.

    I sure am glad mine had the option.
  • Ndcntryboy's avatar
    Ndcntryboy
    Explorer
    Sep 19, 2014
    Axles are under the springs. Thanks for all the insight. I will be calling some rv/trailer companies tomorrow.
  • SDcampowneroper's avatar
    SDcampowneroper
    Explorer
    Sep 19, 2014
    Dayle1 wrote:
    Add a sub-frame, which means cutting off the existing spring hangers, welding steel tubing to the bottom of the frame members (whatever size is needed) and then welding new spring hangers onto the tubing. Extra crossmember bracing to prevent frame twisting. That is the general idea, not that expensive and any good trailer shop can do the work.

    Whatever you do, flipping axles or as this knowledgeable poster suggested to lower the spring members, add cross members to the frame to compensate for the added side to side torques.
  • Veebyes's avatar
    Veebyes
    Explorer II
    Sep 19, 2014
    Trailer lifting is on my list of things to do tomorrow.Done it many times before.

    My chore is installation of Equaflex spring hangers.

    One side at a time.

    Leave trailer on the truck.

    Lossen lug nuts

    Jack till wheels are off ground.

    Block frame to take weight if jack slips

    Block under each axcel to support weight so that hanger bolts can be removed &replaced.

    Reinstall wheels & set back on ground.

    Repeat other side.

    Simple. One step at a time.
  • agesilaus's avatar
    agesilaus
    Explorer III
    Sep 19, 2014
    You can do what's called 'flip the axles'. My local trailer shop (Texas Trailers) offered to do it for $150 an axle IIRC. And it would be worth it to let them do it since if you do yourself you have to jack up the trailer and support it while you pull the axles and move the mounts.

    LINK

    That link somewhat explains the process and why you should let pro's do it.

    Search google for:

    trailer flip axle

    And you find more info. Turned out we didn't need to do it on our 5ver.

    BK

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