Keeping water hot
My Atwood water heater will heat the water but not hot as expected and then will not maintain the warmer temp.What should I be looking for to correct?
Forum Discussion
Old-Biscuit wrote:
jnharley wrote:
Our water heater does not produce great hot water either for me. I rarely turn on any cold water when showering. My spouse thinks I am crazy as he thinks the water is way too hot. Guess it is just individual tolerance levels.
NuWa still using Atwood then yours will have only one set of t-stats....under foam cover in outside compartment. 140*F/180*F
Unless it is an XT model...that one uses a mixing valve on backside of WH tank.....normal t-stat set for 160*F then cold water is mixed inside mixing valve for an output of 130*F.
Mixing valves have a tendency to clog and output temps can be luke warm
X2 on checking if you have an XT model of Atwood. If yes, it's very possible,if not likely that you have a plugged mixing valve. Easy to replace if needed. We had the same problem at the beginning of the season last year. Made me crazy until I figured it out.
Good luck!Jim-Linda wrote:
What you probably removed was the TS for the gas system. You do realize that with nothing to control the temp, its possible to overheat the tank and cause the valve on upper part of tank to blow off. Your original problem could be caused by goop in the tank(not being flushed), burner adjustment or other issues.
Jim
Don't think they did away with t-stats ......just replaced bad onekennethwooster wrote:
He sold me the part, and told me which one I needed to take off. I did as directed, and could not believe the difference.
One simple changejnharley wrote:
Ours is a Suburban.
Suburban uses 2 sets of t-stats
One set for electric 120VAC----130*F/170*F
One set for propane 12VDC------130*F/170*F
They are in outside compartment under rubber cover "Push To Reset"
Top t-stat is Hi Temp and has a reset button (trips if temp goes high)
Left side is for electric (black wires)
Right side is for propane (red wires)- What you probably removed was the TS for the gas system. You do realize that with nothing to control the temp, its possible to overheat the tank and cause the valve on upper part of tank to blow off. Your original problem could be caused by goop in the tank(not being flushed), burner adjustment or other issues.
Jim - I have a Suburban 12 gallon heater that was suppose to be quick recovering and very hot. Ours was not. Sort of what you describe. I have a repair guy in Amarillo that is the best. Was talking to him, and he describes a couple of black round things on the front of the heater. Since I don't know exactly exactly what they are called, but he did. I think one was a thermostat. He sold me the part, and told me which one I needed to take off. I did as directed, and could not believe the difference. I had told the dealer when I bought the Cameo that the hot water heater was not as told it would be. So bad heat for about 3 years. One simple change and it works as described. Wish I could tell you what I changed, but I do know when you look at the heater it was the RH one, flat against heater.
- Ours is a Suburban.
jnharley wrote:
Our water heater does not produce great hot water either for me. I rarely turn on any cold water when showering. My spouse thinks I am crazy as he thinks the water is way too hot. Guess it is just individual tolerance levels.
NuWa still using Atwood then yours will have only one set of t-stats....under foam cover in outside compartment. 140*F/180*F
Unless it is an XT model...that one uses a mixing valve on backside of WH tank.....normal t-stat set for 160*F then cold water is mixed inside mixing valve for an output of 130*F.
Mixing valves have a tendency to clog and output temps can be luke warm- Is this on your 2003 Pace Arrow?
If propane only then just one set of t-stats........
Normal temp (140*F) and an ECO (Energy Cut Off----Hi Temp 180*F)
If electric/propane unit your year model will have 2 sets of t-stats and electric set would be on backside of tank by element. Same temp settings.
Water not hot enough is usually cold water mixing with hot due to bypass valve being open or leaking thru.
T-stats not being held tight against tank wall usually results in VERY hot temp because t-stat is NOT sensing tank temp but cooler air temp so heating cycles last longer.
Might also check that outside shower (if applicable) is completely turned off via hot/cold handles vs shutoff on shower handle. Cold/hot mix inside faucet. - Our water heater does not produce great hot water either for me. I rarely turn on any cold water when showering. My spouse thinks I am crazy as he thinks the water is way too hot. Guess it is just individual tolerance levels.
- Are you heating with electric, or propane? Not that it matters, but propane will make it hotter, and will heat the water faster from what I understand....I normally use electric and have a 12 gallon hot water heater and it's just the wife and I, so we never run out of hot water...There is no thermostat that I'm aware of either..
