leveling

I use the yellow plastic blocks, lightweight, fairly strong, don't take up much space, and easy to stack. Works for me.

I use Lynx blocks. I started with 20 blocks and just ordered 10 more. I think they work great.

I use the Anderson levelers. Works well.

Use a regular carpenter level, 3 to 4 ft. Set it on your kitchen drain, the floor or on the Island top if you have one. Back the trailer up to the spot you want, then check your level bubble, if not level then pull forward and then place your leveling blocks on the low side. Start with 1" levelers at a time. repeat the process until trailer is level.
Your second option is a "Level Master with mounting bracket" on the front of your 5th wheel hitch. Each bubble mark represents 1 inch, so you can tell how many levers you have to put under the tires to level the trailer. Camping World has some new levelers that are much wider than the usual small yellow plastic levers. It makes it much easier to back your tires onto the levels.

I have a couple of 2" X 8" boards that are 4' long. I screwed a handle on each of their sides. I keep them in the bed when traveling. During our recent 5500 mile trip, I occasionally needed to place one board under the two tires on a side side to level my trailer. I have a small bubble level I set on the floor inside the door. Only once did I have to use both boards to level out. It's work for me and that's all that matters.

Well, there's several different ways to determine if the trailer is level side-to-side. One of the easiest and but not always the most available, is to eye-ball a building in the back ground. Then using the side of your camper (the end or the edge), eye ball the vertical (up and down) lines of the building (a corner for example) and the vertical lines of the camper (the corner for example). When the 2 are parallel, you are level side-to-side. However, if the building is leaning, the trailer will be leaning too. (this happened once to me when I tried to eye-ball level with an old barn. Wow, was I off kilter!

Another way is to use a simple carpenters level at the door frame. Hold the level upright against the door jam. Once it's level side to side, then turn the square 90 degrees on edge, and level front to back. Of course, this means getting out of the tow vehicle and running back to the door. But if the door is level side to side and end-to-end, the rest of the trailer is straight.

Still another way, and this is an idea I created.

On the front of my trailer is a vertical line. I put a piece of tape, up and down on that line. The line is straight to the trailer being on the front end cap.



I then put a hook inside the shell on the back of my pick-up truck and with a simple stick with an eye hook, it dangles from the back window. I can see it from inside the cab.

As gravity always pulls straight down, the in the window will always be straight. Once the tape on the trailer is parallel to the stick, I know the trailer is level side-to-side.





And yes, the photo above clearly shows the camper is leaning a bit to the driver side. This works as good as any bubble level, and you never have to try to figure out where that starting point is to install a bubble level. This method is by far the best I've found. But it does take a bit of patience to wait for the stick to quit swinging.

If you do not have a shell on your truck because you are towing a 5er, you can accomplish the same thing by hanging a simple string with a weight inside the cab of your truck. Place it behind you, or in view of your rear view mirror. When the weighted string and the mark on your camper are parallel, you know the trailer side to side.

Yes.... this works as good as any bubble level, and no guessing where level is REALLY level for the bubble to install it oriignally.

If you are asking about what is used under the tires to to make the trailer level... well ... I use nothing but lumber ... real lumber of different lengths that can be stacked on top of each other. In the past, I've had to raise one side of the camper 8-9 inches. Solid, treated lumber for me, and nothing else.

On our Montana we used to travel with a 2" X 10" X 5' board, I would lay it down on the "low" side of the trailer and back up onto it. If we needed more correction I would place 2" X 6" chunks under the 5' board to bring us up to level.

Now we have the 6 point level up system and just push a button and watch the trailer do it's thing. :B We LOVE it!

Dan

I will park where the trailer is at its most level, and then I use a tri-leveler..
I have a triple axle trailer so I have three of the wedge shaped tri-levelers, but I had to cut the short end off of two of them so that they would fit between the wheels so I could drive up on them, as they were longer than the wheel spacing.

most times I only need one, but sometimes two of them... rarely do I need all three to bring the trailer level.... but I also carry extra blocking that I have had to use when we were reduced to staying in the most unlevel site in a campground...

I used to always use wood blocking, but it often breaks so it needs replenished sometimes, and is always dirty when its is wet or placed on gravel...
I then tried the lynx levelers, but in my opinion, they are too time consuming when setting up and when putting away....
by using only 2 easy to handle and use tri-levelers, I have enough height options about 95% of the time... and if one pays attention to where they park, one tri-leveler will work 70% of the time...

the more axles you have, the harder it is to get level, and the more important it is to have the easiest to use blocking to do it.

DutchmenSport wrote:
Snip...
Yes.... this works as good as any bubble level, and no guessing where level is REALLY level for the bubble to install it oriignally.

Snip...

Yep. Unless the wind is blowing! :W :B

I carry about 10 pieces of these. 2 x 8 x about 1 foot long. They happen to be pressure treated, but I don't think that matters. I use them as shown for leveling, and also put them under stabilizer jacks and landing gear when needed.

I've never understood why people would carry long pieces. There is no benefit to having a single piece of lumber stretch between tires. Take that same long piece of lumber and cut it into 12" or 16" pieces and they are much more useful and easier to handle.