lift kit and alignment?

I have a triple axle toy hauler and I installed 4" solid steel blocks with new 1/2" ubolts. That was back in 07 and have never had a problem and we have been on some pretty rough roads in the desert. I have seen the steel square tubing used also as a sub-frame.

bandit86 wrote:

This trailer is going to see some logging roads with sections washed out, I want to get it high to keep from hanging up. I'm even thinking of mounting wheels to the frame rails front and back just in case

I can see the skid wheels on the rear of the trailer, but I'm not so sure about on the front of the trailer. If they make solid contact with the ground, then they're going to lift the weight, and therefore the traction off of your rear drive wheels even with four wheel drive. If you're in bad enough conditions for that, then you need all four wheels on the ground with solid traction.

Bill

I have no personal experience with it but I have seen numerous bumper tow and FW's at the beach and the dessert with 2 - 4 " lift blocks identical to the blocks used to lift the rear axle of trucks.

Lippert Correct Track is what you are thinking of that will raise trailer 2".

For rough roads you probably want to at a minimum look to adding something like an Dexter EZ Flex or other brand variation of the same.

I've had 2" riser blocks in my tri axle toy hauler for a couple years now with no issues and getting ready to do a lift on a tandem axle toy hauler...probably the least expensive way to go plus they are do it yourself friendly.

Lift blocks aren't the best idea on a trailer. I'm a victim of spacer blocks that left me sitting in the middle of a US highway intersection in a small town with one end of the front 6k axle broke the long U bolts and swung around to hang up under the rear axle.
As was mentioned a sub frame is preferred. I would also add cross bracing to the sub frame from side to side in the spring hanger area. This is a popular mod especially on the TT and 5th wheel forum. Their have been pics of the sub frame mods others have done.

My equipment trailer mfg says they will not use nor recommend suspension blocks nor are they a option.
Some years ago I approached a big rig trailer repair shop about adding blocks to gain more wheel well clearance height for 16" tires on a RV trailer. They refused ...however they said if I signed a liability disclaimer they would do it.

If you decide to use suspension blocks I would upgrade to grade eight 9/16" U bolts/a much heavier top plate and heavy spring keepers. Spring hangers would need to be be gusseted. And the trailers main frame rails at the spring hanger area may need fish plated or boxed depending on structural type.

Don't forget the tires on our close spaced axles in the center of the trailer slide sideways when going around corners. Adding blocks just adds more leverage (side stress) to the U bolts/spring keepers and top plates on up through the spring shackles and main frame rails.

I have torsion axles. If I had springs I would do a spring over first, then a whole subframe lift. My dodge 2500 has factory lift blocks in the back, I don't like it.

JIMNLIN wrote:
Lift blocks aren't the best idea on a trailer. I'm a victim of spacer blocks that left me sitting in the middle of a US highway intersection in a small town with one end of the front 6k axle broke the long U bolts and swung around to hang up under the rear axle.
As was mentioned a sub frame is preferred. I would also add cross bracing to the sub frame from side to side in the spring hanger area. This is a popular mod especially on the TT and 5th wheel forum. Their have been pics of the sub frame mods others have done.

My equipment trailer mfg says they will not use nor recommend suspension blocks nor are they a option.
Some years ago I approached a big rig trailer repair shop about adding blocks to gain more wheel well clearance height for 16" tires on a RV trailer. They refused ...however they said if I signed a liability disclaimer they would do it.

If you decide to use suspension blocks I would upgrade to grade eight 9/16" U bolts/a much heavier top plate and heavy spring keepers. Spring hangers would need to be be gusseted. And the trailers main frame rails at the spring hanger area may need fish plated or boxed depending on structural type.

Don't forget the tires on our close spaced axles in the center of the trailer slide sideways when going around corners. Adding blocks just adds more leverage (side stress) to the U bolts/spring keepers and top plates on up through the spring shackles and main frame rails.

In a perfect world all trailers would be built to fit our trucks. Several things could have caused the u-bolts to break including poor construction of the u-bolt, bolt being undersized or not being tightened properly or just poor installation. Anytime you move the springs/axles farther from the frame your going to increase leverage including dropping them to lower holes in a spring hanger. I wasn't implying that using spacer blocks was the BEST way to increase height, I was just stating I used lift blocks in one of mine with no issues and that I intend to do it again. If the OP is doing serious off roading with his RV then a subframe might be his best option, depending on his pocketbook. For hiway use like I use my RV for I'm not at all afraid of blocks when I install them.