My first rear kitchen - drawer and cabinet latches?

Sometimes previous owners know best. I'm just sayin'

We use bungie cords on all our cabinet doors. They don't need to be drawn tight, the just need to keep the doors from coming open while on the road. I attached Command Hooks (sideways so small bungie cords could catch the cabinet and the other end would catch that door handle where there are cabinets (or the refrigerator door) and there is no where else to catch the other end of the bungie.

I don't use anything extra on the cabinets of our rear kitchen. Never needed it.

Are you sure you need anything? We have always had rear kitchen models and never had a problem with doors/drawers coming open. I would think a fiver of Artic Fox's quality would be fine.

We have the 2012 29-5E, similar floor plan, just a couple of feet longer.

The only time I had a problem with the drawers was when I had pots and pans in the lower big drawer - it was too much weight for that drawer latch. I installed a childproof latch and rearranged storage and have not had a problem since.

I slap all doors and drawers as part of the rig for tow preparation, and before I open the slide I check the pantry door to be sure it has not bounced open. Again, redistributing how things were stored fixed the issue so far (canned goods are now on the bottom shelf). Forgot to check one time and popped the trim off the slide. :o

we have a rear kitchen not an Artic Fox, my first test drive I found all the dishes on the ground and one nick on the counter, I put latches used to keep babies out of the cabinets plastic that look like long pad locks. the draws are not an issue but all cabinet door get this procedure b4 we leave. That is for my time of just snap shut doors not a locking system

I have two large drawers that kept coming open. I installed 10lb latches and no more problems RV Designer H316 Black Push Latch

tvman44 wrote:
I don't use anything extra on the cabinets of our rear kitchen. Never needed it.

X2

Once in a great while a drawer will open, likely because I didn't shut correctly.

IMO not all towable with rear kitchen have the same problem. But I I know we do. We're getting better and better, not perfect but getting better every trip.

Stuff in cabinets...We were tried of stuff falling out. Wife asked someone who delivers wedding cakes in a van what they used. Lady showed her this http://www.amazon.com/Duck-1100731-Non-Adhesive-12-Inch-20-Feet/dp/B002AS9NAI Works better than regulator store bought but still not perfect. See if there is anything more "commercial" grade before you order. It was "duck" brand she got but wife says they have even better stuff than link above but I can't find it.

Fridge...Shelves fell down twice. Asked just last week and somebody suggested vinyl tubing on loose fridge racks. Verdict is still out but from Orange county CA to Redwoods in northern CA problem seems to be fixed. http://forums.woodalls.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28869554.cfm

Drawers and cabinets...Still looking for better ideas than what I've seen so far...right now I'm using Staples big rubber bands. I'm leaning towards using a "barrel lock" and drill a small hole in drawer so it can still slid out. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-2-1-2-in-Zinc-Plated-Barrel-Bolt-15142/202033904

And something to think about...I didn't have as big of problem until I upgraded my tires from load range D to E and run them max air pressure (80). I also get a better ride with a full water tank.

You'll notice that your doors with the heavier loads will pop open first because of the shifting mass. We had this problem, didn't really find one latch any better than the other. The best thing we found was to install two latches on most of the doors. And keep the screws tight or they'll strip out.

Bill

We use child safety latches and it works fine.