need new tires

[Rich_Mar]

I'm in need of new tires, leaning towards goodyear endurance, but spendy. Also considered carlisle and maxxis. Just wondering why I never hear anyone or read any article about firestone st tires. Any idea why? And what's your opinion on LT tires on a fiver that's only used here and there a few days at a time. They say, opinions are like belly buttons, everybody has one, right or wrong. What yours.

[Cummins12V98]

ford truck guy wrote:
that there is the KEY.... MOST PEOPLE ONLY see the words... INFLATE and 65.......

"For MAX load, inflate to 65#"..... read the charts and see exactly where your weights fall into and air em up...

Blasphemy I say!!!

[ford_truck_guy]

that there is the KEY.... MOST PEOPLE ONLY see the words... INFLATE and 65.......

"For MAX load, inflate to 65#"..... read the charts and see exactly where your weights fall into and air em up...

[Cummins12V98]

"I’m no engineer, but my experience with many types of RV’s and commercial vehicles is that maxing out a trailer tire is the way to go."

Please explain why???

Pic of ENDURANCE tire on my boat Trailer I run at 50spi based on ACTUAL load.

Tire does NOT say to inflate to MAX. There is a reason they have a weight/inflation chart for every tire made.

[JIMNLIN]

The Endurance replaces the old Marathons.

Tires cupping in the center of the tread can indicate a brake lock up event (flat spotting). My 10k car hauler had one brake that flat spotted a 16" E tire in several places around the tire which caused a bad vibration (empty trailer) to the truck. I use it as the spare know.


OEM 6 ply would be a C load range. A load D would be a better choice. At 1.2 million miles pulling trailers with 14"/15"/16" and 17.5" tires I found out the hard way a trailer can be over tired.
Thats why experts recommend a replacement tire with not over 15- 20 percent reserve capacity above the trailers axle ratings. That way the tire can be ran at max sidewall pressures for a cooler running and longer lasting tire.

I'm not a fan of any ST tire because of my past experience with them however the Endurance....Carlisle HD....and the Provider ST tires seem to be the better choices when we look around the net at the many websites that use rv and non rv trailers.
I have the Provider ST235/80-16 E on the 10k car hauler (5200 lb axles) I mentioned. Their DOT date code is 2610 and 2510 or 9 years old. The tread wear bars are starting to show so I just had Discount Tire mount four more. I'm sold on the Providers.
Check them out.

[BobsYourUncle]

If I could chime in here, since there's the talk of the GY Endurance. Was going to start my own thread, but there's some good info here. Don't want to hijack either....

Anyhow, while under the TT adjusting the brakes, (32 foot PCW Tango) I noticed I have 3 Goodyear Marathon 225/75/15, Load range D, and one China bomb piece of..... Maxmiler name, never heard of it. One tire is absolutely junk, very bad wear on the inside that I didn't see before.

Tried to locate the GY Marathon to match the others. Was told they don't make them now, now they are something else, I wasn't smart enough to remember what name the tire store gave me. Perhaps the Endurance? Can someone enlighten me?

Leaving Sunday for 3 weeks, was going to buy 1 Marathon and put the spare on. Its brand new, never used. Don't want tire problems on the road.

Trying to figure out why the peculiar wear. Tires are cupping in the middle of the tread. I wonder why??....

Ive read through the posts here, seems everyone likes the GY Endurance. I'm ok with that. 10 ply ok, my Marathons are 6

I was quoted 446 bucks today for 2 tires! Eek! Gotta be a cheaper place here in Calgary Alberta or nearby. US always seems less expensive

[RV_Tire_Guy]

I’m no engineer, but my experience with many types of RV’s and commercial vehicles is that maxing out a trailer tire is the way to go. Air carriers the load, the tire holds the air pressure, don’t skimp on the air.

[JIMNLIN]

op wrote:
They say, opinions are like belly buttons, everybody has one, right or wrong. What yours.

:B

[Cummins12V98]

"My GVW is 10,500 lbs; my total tire capacity is only 300 lbs less than that. I =know= there's =way= more than 300 lbs on the pin, so why go to an E tire, then "de-rate" it by lowering the pressure? At 70 psi, I'd have more tire capacity than the GVW of my FW."

If your RV has "D" tires and the actual load dictates less then 65psi I personally would consider staying with the "D" tires if going to the ENDURANCE. Bottom line I ALWAYS load based on the charts!

[Cummins12V98]

"Unlike others, I recommend 80 psi regardless of loading. Goodyear agrees with me. "

Simply NOT true when going from a "D" to "E" when the load only dictates 65 by the trailer manufacturer. Only thing GY says is to follow manufacturers recommendations. THEN.....if going up in load range they get more specific because then it's out of a legal matter.

[Cummins12V98]

Too funny, chalk lines, Tireman9, I feel, 70 better than 65 on and on. FACT is GY Tech support says add 5psi to what the tire weight/inflation chart recommends for your actual loaded weight and "add 5psi" when going up in load ratings.

But hey what the HE!! do they know???

I have followed their advice numerous times with great success and have the best stopping, tread wear and ride.

[laknox]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

laknox wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

laknox wrote:
Just checked Discount Tire, and realized that the Endurance in 225 15" are only available in an E rating. My KZ is placarded for D tires, which gives me a tire load capacity only 360 lbs below my GVW. So, that brings up the question of do I stick with a D rated tire or spend more and go to an E rated tire, which would give me 1,332 lbs OVER my GVW tire capacity (at full psi)? Do I spend $120 more (plus tax) on the Endurance and =deflate= to 65 psi to get the same load rating as a D tire or just buy a D tire, which, IMO is plenty for my fairly light FW? FWIW, I've had good luck with 2 different sets of Carlisles, so that would be my D rated choice.

Lyle

. Get the “E” and use the weight/inflation chart and add 5 psi to chart. I will bet that will be 65psi.

According to the GY chart, 65 gives me the same as the D.

Lyle

That is correct. That's why I said what I did. BUT... if you are already weighing enough to require 65psi then per GY Tech you should add 5 and run 70psi when upping load range.

I went from GY "E" to "G" and was already requiring 80psi so I ran the "G" tires at 85. After many thousands of miles the tires ever wearing perfectly.

My GVW is 10,500 lbs; my total tire capacity is only 300 lbs less than that. I =know= there's =way= more than 300 lbs on the pin, so why go to an E tire, then "de-rate" it by lowering the pressure? At 70 psi, I'd have more tire capacity than the GVW of my FW.

Lyle

[ford_truck_guy]

My bro in law was just at this same crossroads.... he needed new tires and had "D" Ranier tires that were 2 years and 2 bubbles found .

He was going to get another set of "D" because "thats what came with" . . . .

After I he saw the weight ratings of the Raniers and compared them to the TT (Jayco 338 ) he was just under his MAX by less than 100lbs..( 25# per tire)

he now is the proud owner of the GY Endurance "E" and is leaving tonight for the first trip. Until he gets to a scale, he is going to air up to max as his wheels are rated for the pressure per the stamp on the inside.

[twodownzero]

laknox wrote:
Just checked Discount Tire, and realized that the Endurance in 225 15" are only available in an E rating. My KZ is placarded for D tires, which gives me a tire load capacity only 360 lbs below my GVW. So, that brings up the question of do I stick with a D rated tire or spend more and go to an E rated tire, which would give me 1,332 lbs OVER my GVW tire capacity (at full psi)? Do I spend $120 more (plus tax) on the Endurance and =deflate= to 65 psi to get the same load rating as a D tire or just buy a D tire, which, IMO is plenty for my fairly light FW? FWIW, I've had good luck with 2 different sets of Carlisles, so that would be my D rated choice.

Lyle

I can only assume you meant "GVWR." If your tire load capacity is less than your "GVW," you are definitely overloaded.

Unlike others, I recommend 80 psi regardless of loading. Goodyear agrees with me.

[JIMNLIN]

(quote)Frankly, were I to go ahead and go to an E tire, I'd only drop them to 70, as I feel that you start to get into underinflation territory below that. Tire wear and contact patch suffer. Now, were I going onto the sand at Pismo, that'd be a whole nuther subject. (emoticon)

Lyle (/quote)

70 psi would be better than 65 psi.
Not knowing the trailers load per tire I would do some chalk line across the tread system to double check those minimum tire pressure chart numbers. Remember those numbers are a minimum and doesn't cover the needs of a tire on a trailer and the tires interply shear affects.

Going from the D to a E tire has the advantage of a stiffer tire which at 80 psi its doing a better job of holding the tires plies together than at 65 psi when making those tight turns.

Roger Marble (Tireman9) a actual tire engineer talks about shear forces in tires on trailers. If a person would spend about a week and read all he has written on this subject you will see the reasons experienced RVers and tire experts/trailer blogs/Goodyear tire/others all recommend max sidewall pressures....unless some one has severally over tired the trailer.
http://www.rvtiresafety.net/2013/11/interply-shear-and-other-techno-babble.html

[Cummins12V98]

ford truck guy wrote:
I SEE NO NEGATIVE by jumping from a "D" to an "E" rated tire if your are that close to max... put em on, and run em.......

YUP you get a much stronger tire and have the ability to add more weight without going "OH" I better not add another can of beer!

My boat trailer had Towmaster POS Chinese tires from Les Schwab when I bought it in "C" load range and was near the top of their capacity. I went with "D" ENDURANCE and run at 50psi, they stay cool and I run 70 without concern.