ReneeG wrote:
If you are purchasing a new FW, most will not warranty using a gooseneck style hitch. Why? I don't know.
Simple physics.
Most 5ers are designed based on the assumption the hitch connection will be 12-18 inches above the truck bed.
By dropping the connection point by 12-18 inches, it creates a longer lever arm which puts significantly more stress on the trailer frame.
It's possible to design for the extra stress (at an extra cost) but since it's not standard, they may or may not...You might do it anyway and get away with it but they don't want to mess about with warranty for something they didn't recommend you doing.
Check the payload numbers on the hitch. At the upper end (13k trailer), you can be around 2600-3250lb hitch weight. That may put you over payload on a 3/4 ton truck (diesel probably has plenty of grunt to make it move forward). Don't forget to add passengers and other gear that's in the truck when calculating payload.
There are under bed mounts that leave the bed flat or if you have the older rail system, you can cut plywood panels to provide a level surface with the rails. Either will allow a truck camper to be used.
Removing the hitch:
- If you have a garage, a simply pulley attached to the ceiling makes easy work of lifting the hitch. Then drop it on a cart to roll it where you want it.
- Another easy solution is to pull the pins holding the hitch to the truck bed and when you lift the front of the trailer, it will take the hitch with it. Make sure the hitch is locked, so someone doesn't accidentally release it and it falls but otherwise, makes a nice way to store (yes, the trailer frame is plenty strong enough to hold the weight).