Power Converter Question

[kbellavia]

Hi,

I am very new to the RV world and we are having some issues with our lights and refrigerator working. The lights have been dim for a while then yesterday everything went out while I was in the shower and there was a burning smell. My husband re-routed the converter to a battery however this is the second time we've had issues with the lights and fridge. The RV repair place we called the last time replaced the converter but now looking at it it's only a 25 amp. We have a 2010 Open Range, I believe it's a 30ft (can't seem to find the actual length on any of the paperwork) Could be a little larger than that but definitely not over 40ft. Should we have more amps with the power converter to run all the electrical on this RV? If so what do you suggest.

Also when trying to switch the fridge over to propane it doesn't work, the fridge lights are blinking and there is no cold air in it now. Please help!

Karen

[magnusson]

Sandrider2 wrote:
25 amps should be plenty for your converter. I have a 40' Class A, with a monitor that shows how many amps I am drawing from the converter, and its very rare I draw more than 1.5 amps. All my lighting is LED, and that makes a big difference, but that big difference is still less than 5 amps.

I presume you had hookups this last weekend? Or were you running generator? At any rate, as the other posts noted, finding your short/ground issue, and getting some new batteries are in order. If you choose to get 6v golf cart batteries, or L16's your batteries have the potential to last you many years.

The problem we all face is how we get the batteries charged. Although there are some new "next generation" converters available that have a good 3 stage charger built in, they are certainly not the standard. Most converters just trickle charge your batteries.

If you are running a generator, and using the converter to charge the batteries, that is a highly ineffective and expensive effort, that will likely never get them charges. Understand that a 25 amp battery charger is completely different than a 25 amp converter in that the converter will never charge the batteries at 25 amps. Consider buying a good battery charger. It will be a good investment for more than just your RV. Walmart sells one by Stanley that a decent 25 amp 3 stage charger, has an equalization setting as well (after you have a good battery bank, and a good charger, learn more about equalization). That Stanley sells for about $80. West Marine also has a charger, its their West Marine house brand, its a 30 amp and sells for about $130. If your batteries are low, and you choose to run your generator for power, a good charger helps give the batteries a good kick in the relatively short amount of time we run our generators.
If you enjoy dry camping (boondocking, camping without hookups) you become power conscientious. LED lights are great, try to put them in the light you leave on the longest.
Solar panels are battery chargers. They have become quite inexpensive in the last few years. I just added 1100 watts on the utility trailer I pull, for only $527. Brand new, first quality panels, at a dealer. Up to about 250 watts, they are trickle chargers for your batteries, your batteries will always be full and ready for your next outing, and that helps them last longer too. If you can fit 250-500 watts of panels, You will have up to 25 amps of charging for your batteries for 4 or 5 hours a day. This is a huge difference, and almost enough to live on. Make sure they are mounted on racking made for solar panels or something equivalent, that allows air to circulate under the panels and keep them cool. They are much less efficient if you don't do this, and they help heat up the rv instead of providing shade like they should be doing.

Good Luck to you, I hope my opinions on these topics help. I admit I am a bit biased after 20 years of work in the solar industry. IMO there is just no substitute for good quality batteries (Trojan T-105's or L16's), and a good quality charger. If you can keep them from dropping below 12.2 or 12.3, then the T105's can last you 5 years, and the L16's almost 10.

Are you recommending to plug the battery charger into the generator then to the batteries while its running to charge up the batteries?

[Sandrider2]

25 amps should be plenty for your converter. I have a 40' Class A, with a monitor that shows how many amps I am drawing from the converter, and its very rare I draw more than 1.5 amps. All my lighting is LED, and that makes a big difference, but that big difference is still less than 5 amps.

I presume you had hookups this last weekend? Or were you running generator? At any rate, as the other posts noted, finding your short/ground issue, and getting some new batteries are in order. If you choose to get 6v golf cart batteries, or L16's your batteries have the potential to last you many years.

The problem we all face is how we get the batteries charged. Although there are some new "next generation" converters available that have a good 3 stage charger built in, they are certainly not the standard. Most converters just trickle charge your batteries.

If you are running a generator, and using the converter to charge the batteries, that is a highly ineffective and expensive effort, that will likely never get them charges. Understand that a 25 amp battery charger is completely different than a 25 amp converter in that the converter will never charge the batteries at 25 amps. Consider buying a good battery charger. It will be a good investment for more than just your RV. Walmart sells one by Stanley that a decent 25 amp 3 stage charger, has an equalization setting as well (after you have a good battery bank, and a good charger, learn more about equalization). That Stanley sells for about $80. West Marine also has a charger, its their West Marine house brand, its a 30 amp and sells for about $130. If your batteries are low, and you choose to run your generator for power, a good charger helps give the batteries a good kick in the relatively short amount of time we run our generators.
If you enjoy dry camping (boondocking, camping without hookups) you become power conscientious. LED lights are great, try to put them in the light you leave on the longest.
Solar panels are battery chargers. They have become quite inexpensive in the last few years. I just added 1100 watts on the utility trailer I pull, for only $527. Brand new, first quality panels, at a dealer. Up to about 250 watts, they are trickle chargers for your batteries, your batteries will always be full and ready for your next outing, and that helps them last longer too. If you can fit 250-500 watts of panels, You will have up to 25 amps of charging for your batteries for 4 or 5 hours a day. This is a huge difference, and almost enough to live on. Make sure they are mounted on racking made for solar panels or something equivalent, that allows air to circulate under the panels and keep them cool. They are much less efficient if you don't do this, and they help heat up the rv instead of providing shade like they should be doing.

Good Luck to you, I hope my opinions on these topics help. I admit I am a bit biased after 20 years of work in the solar industry. IMO there is just no substitute for good quality batteries (Trojan T-105's or L16's), and a good quality charger. If you can keep them from dropping below 12.2 or 12.3, then the T105's can last you 5 years, and the L16's almost 10.

[kerrlakeRoo]

Agree with snowbird on a poor connection being the most likely problem, and as was said most common culprit is a ground somewhere on the system.
As far as the converter, look on the website for your builder, most have at least some owners manuals available online. Hopefully you can verify appropriate size that way, or give them a call tomorrow, although 25 does sound a might small. Fridge even on propane still needs 12 volt electric available for the thermostat. Finding the open circuit should take care of that too.

[Artum_Snowbird]

Karen, it sounds like your batteries are dead. If you are plugged into power and your lights go dim but you have a new converter, the most likely problem is that the converter is working hard, but there is a lack of connection between the converter and the batteries.

Checking with a voltmeter on the converter output terminals will give you 13.6 volts or very close. You should have the same on the battery posts. If you don't, there is a connection problem. There are four connections, two on the batteries, and two on the converter terminal strips. Positive and negative wires between the two need to be checked and tightened.

When I had your problem, I found my negative wire from the converter to the battery on the converter terminal strip was so loose it was burning hot and I tightened it up and everything worked great after that.