Question about removing black tank

importman wrote:

MFL wrote:
I have seen a few rental RVs set up this way at private CGs. Yes, they just run a sloping plastic pipe, until reaching the sewer.

Jerry

That's exactly what I hope to do. Thanks for the response.

Just keep the pipe slope at 1/4" per foot. Too flat or too steep and you will have problems with drainage.

Are you planning to remove the grey tank(s) also or do you plan to continue dumping them on a regular basis?

You might not have to remove the whole underbelly material if it’s what I have under mine. Mine is a corrugated plastic material. When I had a broken remote dump valve line repaired they just cut a flap in the underbelly and then taped it back up. No problem.
You would just have to cut a bigger flap to expose the tank. Shouldn’t be that difficult to remove tank. Hooking up new sewer line would be easy. Only issue would be the hole and if new toilet would match up. If not, perhaps one of those old fashion wall mounted tanks if wall could support it.

valhalla360 wrote:
As long as the tank isn't sealed up in the underbelly (Ie, you can get to the tank without disassembling a lot of stuff), it shouldn't be a major project.

I think that's probably the biggest issue I'll face. This is one of those 4 season models that's got the underbelly completely enclosed and (I think) insulated, so you can enjoy it in cold weather. I really dread removing the undercover to see what's required. Thanks for the response.

As long as the tank isn't sealed up in the underbelly (Ie, you can get to the tank without disassembling a lot of stuff), it shouldn't be a major project.

You'll have to measure.
The standard distance from the back wall to the center of the flange is 12.0" min.

Another concern I have about this is that the toilet in the rv doesn't have a tank on it and I'm afraid the hole through the floor is too close to the wall behind it for a residential toilet to match up with it. I'd hate to have to figure a way to move that hole forward and fill the original one. Anyone done this or have any ideas about that?

garyp4951 wrote:
I wonder if there is room between the toilet, and black tank to install a bypass that could be undone if you decided to sell later.

A very good point. I'm gonna check into that and see if it can be done. I'm thinking it may be possible since the toilet doesn't sit directly on top of the tank like in did in my travel trailer I had previously. Actually, the down pipe from the toilet is pretty long and it makes a 90 Deg turn a little ways down. In fact I have one of those whirly bird cleanout tools that has about 2-2.5 feet of flexible hose and another 2 ft of stiff plastic and when I run it down in there it uses up almost all of it before I get to what I think is the tank. I may just be able to route past the tank and just leave it in place. Thanks for the idea.

bobsallyh wrote:
whereumakeit, most folks that do this is to get rid of the RV toilet and put in a residential pottie.

Correct. That's what I plan to do as well. Thanks!

whereyoumakeit wrote:
There are some good repair shops up in the Western NC area. I've personally used these guys before and had a great experience: https://keepcampingrvrepair.com/

Here are some good toilet options as well: https://whereyoumakeit.com/rv/best-rv-toilet/

Hope this helps!

Thanks for the response and link. I looked at their site and we're outside of the radius that they say they cover. Plus, if I'm still physically able, I'd like to try to do it myself to save a few bucks. Thanks again.