Question about stabilizer jacks and landing gear

Short of putting the frame up on blocks nothing you do will get rid of all the movement in a fiver. Since it is designed for the road the springs, shackles etc. will allow some movement.

You might try a tripod jack that connects to the hitch pin. It will stop some of the side to side movement, but they are a pain in the A** to put on, take off and store.

You might also try adjusting the landing gear so the fiver is a bit nose down. Then deploy the rear stabilizers firmly on your blocks. After that, raise the nose with the landing gear. This will transfer more of the fiver weight onto the stabilizers. You can only do this a little bit as the stabilizers have a limited load strength. But, it will steady the fiver a bit.

My wife and I don't even notice the movement anymore. The only thing we do when parking is chock the wheels and put down the landing gear. Perhaps you will get used to it too.

There seems to be a general feeling that putting thicker pads under the LG and stabilizers cuts down on the wobble. Shorter leg extended means less "wagging" around. I don't think there is really any to prove whether or not that is true although I am sure that plenty of folks will come out of the woodwork to say I'm wrong.

That said, I took a 4x4 PT fence post and cut it into 12" sections with a chainsaw. Gives me 8 blocks each a foot long. I put two of them under each landing gear pad and two each under the stabilizers.

Besides giving me 4" of height, this spreads the ground load over an area 12"x8" so everything is less likely to sink in. 96 square inches instead of 25.

I'm not personally sure that just stacking the little yellow Leggo blocks up would help much. I have a set and they seldom come out of the basement. The 4x4's are light enough to just pick up and toss into the back of the truck, but heavy enough that they will not fly out at speed.

(I have a king-pin tripod and install it if we are going to be in one spot for five or six days or more. The wife thinks it makes the bedroom more stable and if that is all it takes to make her happy.........)

Scott_85 wrote:
When I get to the campground I've just been using one yellow pad or put under the landing gear and the rear jacks, then running the jacks all the way down, is this right or should I use more yellow pads? The reason I ask is because I can't seem to get the camper steady enough. I also use the x chocks. Is there anything else I can do just to make it a little more steady?

There are several companies that make stabilizer systems that significantly help reduce trailer movement. JT Strongarms and BAL are 2 that immediately come to mind. Many people use the same principle and build their own. Basically, you have a X of supports between the front legs, from the frame on one side to the foot on the other. Next, you have another support arm from the frame behind each landing leg to the foot of the leg. Third, you have support arms from the from to the foot of each rear stabilizer. Each support arm telescopes and has a locking screw to lock it up, once you're level. Some people have just put eye bolts through their frame and use ratchet straps to achieve the same thing. :-)

Lyle

I lower the inner leg to 4" off the ground. Then lower then landing gear to get it level. The feet go on a 2X8. Then snug up the rear stabilizers. If you still get objection "bounce" put some of those cheap little screw jacks in front and behind the spring shackles on both side. And snug those up to.

The more expensive way is to get JT Strongarms installed. They work very well.

I never had much luck with King Pin Tripods.

I used a 6X6X12 block under each rear stabilizer jack pad so that they do not extend far........wider stance.
Under front landing gear pads I use a 12" plastic pad.

After side to side leveling I unhook and then level front to rear.
THEN I lower front 1" off level........run rear stabilizer jacks down tight
THEN raise front landing gear back up to level.

Other than normal slight bounce from wheels/suspension rig is solid/stable.

See if this article helps you:
http://www.learntorv.com/2013/06/shake-shake-shake-rv-stabilization.html

I use the BAL stabilizers and put two of them on each leg/jack. One goes along the front (or rear) of the rig and the other goes along the long side. that way they are set at about a 90 degree angle to each other. It stops the forward/backward movement, and the left to right movement. If you just use one, it only stops the movement in that direction. Maybe its overkill but it works

Same here. Works great and very easy to install.

Campinfan wrote:
I use the BAL stabilizers and put two of them on each leg/jack. One goes along the front (or rear) of the rig and the other goes along the long side. that way they are set at about a 90 degree angle to each other. It stops the forward/backward movement, and the left to right movement. If you just use one, it only stops the movement in that direction. Maybe its overkill but it works

I have no respect for any of the plastic blocks. They don't do a thing that cheap or free scrap lumber can't do better.

I also don't recommend anything very thick under the landing gear. It's just something else to accidentally fall off of, when hitching, earthquake, wind, whatever. Keep any pads to 2x thickness or less.

I suspect that the X style braces, like the strongarms, probably help more than anything else. I'll probably never know since it isn't an issue for us.

For the most part I think people just need to get used to a little movement in a parked vehicle. No different than getting used to living on a boat. Some folks are more sensitive than others apparently, but anyone can get used to it and soon you just don't notice or care. Save yourself a lot of fooling around trying to control it.

I note some of the respondents on this thread lower the front end a little, extend the rear stabilizing jacks and then raise the front against the pressure being applied by the rear jacks. It seems that would put unnecessary strain on the front landing gear assembly. I always level the front first before lowering the rear jacks. I feel the landing gear motor and associated gearing has enough work to do without adding more burden by forcing it against the rear jacks. JMHO....