Re-coat roof already?

Lenny K wrote:
I would get a second opinion to see if you really need to do all that work. It is also unlikely that the dicor needs replacing, Touch-up yes, replacing no.
I think someone might be looking for work.

That was my conclusion as well. Thanks.

I would get a second opinion to see if you really need to do all that work. It is also unlikely that the dicor needs replacing, Touch-up yes, replacing no.
I think someone might be looking for work.

sayoung wrote:

pcm1959 wrote:
Or better yet, RV Flex Armor.

Our 5er is at the Denton Tx location now getting the roof repaired & sprayed. I hit a tree in my own yard duh.

Trees aren’t a problem in Wyoming, but, if we had one.....I’m sure I could find it! :R

pcm1959 wrote:
Or better yet, RV Flex Armor.

Our 5er is at the Denton Tx location now getting the roof repaired & sprayed. I hit a tree in my own yard duh.

............A year ago I needed to completely recoat my EPDM rubber roof on a 1999 Travel Supreme 5'ver ! I ordered 5 gallons of Dicor EPDM Rubber roof coating ! I paid `$50 per gallon plus shipping ! I also ordered a gallon of their cleaner\catalyst that is applied prior to the application of the EPDM coating .
............The proper application is a multi step process , (1)apply Dicor cleaner catalyst , let stand ~20 minutes , (2)Pressure wash roof with water and let air dry OR use an air hose and blow water off roof to speed up process of drying (3), Apply FIRST coat of EPDM rubber roof coating with a roller (5)Wait ~ 2 hours and apply the second coat and you're done !
.............Now , the perimeter of my roof had the normal hardened and cracked layer of lap sealant that most older trailers have ! SO.....instead of completely reapplying a new layer of lap sealant I did something different ! ...........I used an air blower and cleaned out all the cracks in the old sealant ! Then I squirted the cleaner\ catalyst over the entire perimeter and simply applied the EPDM coating over the lap sealant when I applied BOTH coatings . Worked like a charm !!!!!!
.............The factor that makes the Dicor method of Recoating Superior , is the application of the SECOND coat !!!!! , jf

REM13 wrote:
I would suggest 4" Eternabond on all joints, front and back and over all caulking on hatches and then do the coating, if really needed, yourself.

This would be my suggestion also. I did exactly that to my trailer some years back. Still is waterproof and looks good today.
Barney

I would suggest 4" Eternabond on all joints, front and back and over all caulking on hatches and then do the coating, if really needed, yourself.

Makes a huge difference whether the RV sits out in the sun or is stored under shaded cover. Sun quickly rots a roof and caulking especially if its allowed to build up dust on it which dries it out.

My last TT was always in covered storage when not in use. After 11 years the roof looked good as new as did the front and side paint, gel coat, plastics etc.

I used Henry sf287 on a previous 5er when I lived near PHX and it still looked great when I sold it 5 yrs later... Never stored inside. Henry has a newer rv roof coating I might try. I started on recoating my 2008 and I'm still on the recalling part. Craig

Let him do the resealing. Give your rubber roof material mfg a 1-800 and ask them what they recommend.
My 31' 1997 5er with a rubber roof has never had any type of coating. It no longer white after 22 years however this unit has sat in its trailer barn when not on the road.
I do a roof inspection (everything) twice a year (spring and late fall) and reseal spots here and there with Dicor if needed maybe every 5-6 years. Some OEM seal areas is still doing its job. The trailer was nine years old before the sealant around the skylite and one roof jack needed a bit of self leveling Dicor.