Well, I finally decided and bought a Reese Goose Box last spring. I'm writing this thread to tell my experiences. Please don't post the horror stories; there are enough posts of them. If you want to link to a thread go ahead but please..... I by no means am a expert on the subject and I didn't stay in a Holiday Express last night.
I have pulled my 32' Greystone about 2000-2500 miles and every thing performed great. I do not feel much difference in the pull but that's not why I changed. I had a B-W turnover hitch with the companion 5th wheel hitch. I was tired of putting the hitch in and out every time I needed the bed. I now just flip the ball and I'm ready to go, and I love it (one ruptured disc was enough). And I had a hoist to help.
I checked with Lippert for approval and to get the part number. I did not check with the RV manufacturer. The only real hard part was getting the box into the truck bed, so unload it into the bed if you plan to change it soon. DW and I, by no means powerhouses, changed the unit. The old box dropped to the ground. I used some wood blocked to lever the back of the box up into position from the tuck bead and DW slipped in some bolts. The box then swung up into place. The bolts torque to 210 ft-lbs and my wrench only went 150 so I used the old, โthis pull at 18โ equals 105 ft-lb so this same pull on a 36โ cheater equals 210 ft-lbsโ. I checked the bolts a couple time during my first pull and also had the mechanic at the RV dealer check it when I had it in later in the summer and all was well. I added safety chains not supplied by Reese though they gave me the size and said they were looking into selling them.
So far I love the free bed and I'm getting used to hitching up. I do have some comments:
There is no way to lock the hitch either on or off the truck; a couple piece of metal and some weld and the Reese could have correct that. I just check the latch position before I pull it.
I'm not sold on the cable release set up but by design the hitch engages with the lever in the locked position so I make sure I release the catch so the latch is locked as soon as I disconnect from the ball.
There are no hooks to hold up the safety chains, though I use a bungie cord over the top, to keep them from dragging in the bed.
You have to climb into the bed or onto the tires to set the chains.
Your jacks get more work because you have to lift over the ball and then set down. And since it sets lower you often times can't back in under the box to park.
Reese recommends greasing the ball every time. The shock absorber feature rocks on the ball and grease is necessary, (I added some graphite based lube to the mix for added slick).
I stole an idea from a fellow RVer and painted a stripe from the ball to the end of the tail gate. I back in and line up the hitch on the line, straighten the wheels and back until I hit my stop, a telescoping magnetic pen with a ball on top, strategically placed.
That's my story and so far I'm sticking to it. I'm not shy about telling the worst so if my opinion changes I'll let you know. I haven't sold the old pin box or the companion hitch yet, but so far I haven't seen a reason to look back.
Jeff
