Replacement Fridge

[joelc]

We have a 2012 Carriage Cameo and out Norcold Fridge (Model N1095 RT) decided so go "south" with ammonia leak. So now the unit is dead and must be replaced. I was told by Norcold that a Model NA10LXR would replace the existing unit. Dometic only makes a 8 cu and not a 10 CU. Has anyone recently replaced their Norcold with a new model. Are they reliable? The internet reviews don't look too good, so I was hoping that someone out there could give me some advise. We do not want to replace with a Standard Home fridge.

[fj12ryder]

Or it didn't have enough power to beep for Low Power. 🙂

[wrvond]

Our camper came equipped with the Norcold N10DCX - 10 cubic foot unit. I've got a 200 watt solar panel and a single deep cycle 12v battery. The other day, while installing a hardwired EMS the refrigerator was on battery (along with the lights) for about six hours. It was a cloudy day and the refrigerator started beeping (indicating low power) after about five hours.
When I purchased the camper, the refrigerator was turned on to maximum cooling on both the upper and lower sections. I drove from Michigan to West Virginia with no battery at all (dealer failed to install one), yet the refrigerator was happy to run on the voltage provided by the truck and/or solar panel. Since most of the drive was made in the rain, I imagine the unit was being powered primarily by the truck and would have run indefinitely while going down the road.

[goducks10]

I have a 12V GE fridge. Going on it's 2nd season. Runs great. It does suck power more then the newer brands but with my 400W solar and 4 GC 6V batteries I have zero issues with battery draining. We are currently on a short 6 day trip. I've been on 120V hookup and dry camped on this trip. My fridge has been on 12V only the whole trip. The lowest the batteries got down to was 12.16V. We ran the furnace a bit and used our elec blankets with the inverter since it got down to 32* that night.
On the open road with a solar panel and 2 batteries you should have zero trouble when traveling.
We had an 8 cuft Norcold before and when it died I got the 9.8 cuft GE for $950 and that price included a 3 year extended warranty. Hard to beat that today.
I wired it directly to the battery with an inline fuse.
I would do it again in a heartbeat. 2 more cuft of space is really nice.
It fit exactly in the space for the Norcold.
I'm pretty handy for me it was a really easy install.
FWIW I'd recommend 2 batteries for daily travel if you're hooked to 120V for the night. If dry camping then 4 batteries and 400W of solar.

[joelc]

Thanks Bucky for verifyiing the information I need.

[bucky]

Anybody with experience using a 12V fridge on long pulls AND keeping the food cold?

[joelc]

We have been doing some research and both Norcold and Dometic have a 12V fridge that looks promising.u

Updated 3/26. We have decided on the Dometic 12 V 10.1 Cu fridge, but there are none available and the company indicates maybe in June. We will wait. In the mean time anyone have one with some feed back. They have been on the market for about 2 yrs according to Dometic Customer Service.

[Veebyes]

Pretty sure that a domestic 120VAC fridge will be in our future should the current Dometic 3 way give out. I can get a 17cu ft for less than $2000. The Dometic repacement is $5000.

I already have an adequate pure sine wave inverter & battery bank to support it plus the genny. The research is already done & on hand for a for a quick replacement should that be necessary.

[dieseltruckdriv]

I have to admit with as much as we like to dry camp or boondock if our awesome Norcold were to die I would replace it with a 12 volt compressor fridge.

420 watts of solar and two Honda EU2000s, we would be ok.

[MFL]

Allworth wrote:
Google "Replacement RV Fridge". Rebuilt cooling units (complete) are available and even when installed by a dealer's shop are considerably cheaper than a new fridge,

This...and I'll add, often times a propane sales/propane appliance dealer will be able to order a cooling unit, and have a tech on hand to install it.

Jerry

[lenr]

My opinion--yours may vary:
If one gets either a 12 or 120 volt only fridge the small batteries typically used OEM may not be enough for your camping style (depending on disconnected time.) Additional batteries may be necessary even for the 12 volt only. Adding a 120 volt residential does require adding an inverter--that is what we got OEM in our fifth wheel and we love it. The Everchill brand of 12 volt compressor fridge is being used frequently now by Forest River brands (saves the cost of the inverter.) However, 2 folks with brand new trailers where we camped in January were having trouble with them. One noisy as all get out and the other tripping out so as unusable. I wouldn't touch an Everchill, myself.

[Allworth]

Google "Replacement RV Fridge". Rebuilt cooling units (complete) are available and even when installed by a dealer's shop are considerably cheaper than a new fridge,

[Itakethe5th2011]

You might want to look at the new 12volt only fridge. It uses a 12 volt compressor like home units. I personally don't have one but if my fridge gives out I will purchase one. No propane to shut off going through tunnels or refueling at gas stations.