Residential Refrigerator

It doesn't unless you have an inverter to make 110v out of 12v.

Ours operates off an inverter while traveling.

Rusty

RustyJC wrote:
Ours operates off an inverter while traveling.

Rusty

Thanks

I would check with the Montana people. It may not be intended to operate while in motion.

One advantage of residential units is that they hold the cold better than RV units. Get it cold, then leave the door closed and it will hold temp for 24 hours.

JAYCO uses Samsung Residentials and they include an inverter. They work fine while on the road and they are low amp draw at 3.9 amps. I can't see KEYSTONE not including the inverter.

Boondocking could become problematic unless you have a way to adequately recharge the batteries that power the inverter. Depends on whether enough batteries and how long boondocking. With RV frig with propane, no worry.

We have a Cedar Creek with the Residential Fridge. Our unit came with 4x6-Volt Golf Cart batteries and a 2000 W inverter that powers the fridge while on the road or boon docking. We spend two to three weeks a year with no hook-ups so we have done plenty of testing so far. We can run ~2 days on the setup we have now before needing to run the generator to charge up the batteries.

Running down the road has not been a problem at all. One side note, the residential fridges were never setup with "locks" to keep them from opening while on the road. Our mfg inserted a threaded insert into the fridge with a long screw/handle. This didn't last long as the threaded insert became loose. We now use two pieces of Velcro on the doors and it works great.

Our residential came with a 1000 watt inverter and two batteries. Just switch the inverter on when off shore power and it runs great. Wouldn't go back to a typical RV fridge again. Ours also came from factory with locks on top of fridge for both doors so no issues while traveling.

I would make sure that your rig comes with an inverter. Some manufactures have that as a stand alone option and not included with the fridge.

You will need an inverter with either 2 or 4 batteries depending on size. I run a 2800 watt pure sine inverter with 4 6v batteries. On smaller inverters you may have to switch between converter and inverter if you are on shore power or on the road. The larger inverters such as the one I have takes care of that automatically. If you want to just make sure your frig works while you are traveling you can go with a smaller say 1000 watt inverter and 2 12 volt batteries. If you want to boondocks, do solar etc. then you will need more. By the way the res. frigs are great.

MTPockets1 wrote:
Boondocking could become problematic unless you have a way to adequately recharge the batteries that power the inverter. Depends on whether enough batteries and how long boondocking. With RV frig with propane, no worry.

Traditional RV refrigerators that can operate on propane still need 12V to operate.

If your 12V battery dies, so does your fridge.

The control board requires 12V to operate on propane.