Rubber Roof Replacement

Needs washing now for the pictures to mean anything but the roof looks exactly as it did when the tech finished the job. I could not be happier with it.
Barney

That looks really nice - any pictures of your roof now that it has been a couple years? curious how it is standing up over time...

Sounds to me like an adhesive failure. They are fairly common and can be seen frequently driving down the road.

If you intend to replace your roof covering anyway maybe this will help. I had mine done a couple of years ago. My roof was torn off and replced in three days by a very conscientious and well trained technician from RV Armor.
They came to my trailer location out in the woods and did it right there on site. The cost was just a bit over $6000. I am completely thrilled with the work done and how the roof looks now. No more worry about leaks.

As you can see by the pictures below, my roof looked terrible but was not leaking a bit as evidenced by the condition of the wood after the rubber was torn off. I was a bit worried but knew I had been quite proactive in taking care of it for the past 17 years. I would have no worries about recommending this company if you are looking to repair your roof or are interested in getting the longest life possible out of your rig.
Barney

Roof before


Rubber roof removed.


Roof right after application

Roof completed. We left the luggage rack off because it had never been used and never would be.

Bumpyroad wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:
Saw a relatively new 5er headed the other way on the freeway today.

The rubber roof was wrapped around the air/con and flapping away...no signs of impact.

Unfortunately, there was no way we were going to get turned around and catch up to them, so it was still flapping away when I lost sight of him.

that is why I advise them on my CB radio of the problem.
oh, they don't have a cb, tough.
bumpy

Hello - 1970’s calling, they want their cb radio back!

Getting my edpm roof replaced as we speak. Insurance is paying Ca dollars and it is just short of 12k.

Mine is getting replaced down to the wood. I don’t know if the layers are individually replaceable or if they are bonded together as one. That could be the difference in cost (5k vs 12k). I looked at two providers and the price was about the same.

dougrainer wrote:

Thermoguy wrote:
I'm surprised how many RV's I see headed down the road with a big bubble of roof in the front. Seems like a more than typical problem. I would think an inspection (for caulking, etc) you would see stretch marks and wonder why it looks that way. More people need to look at their roofs.

Believe it or not, but doing an inspection on a roof will rarely show WHERE the air is coming in. You will see the result of air billowing, but a direct visual cause is rare, unless the rubber has actually pulled out of the front cap sealed aluminum strip. I have had air coming in thru clearance lights in the front cap and on the top front side clearance lights and also from below by the hitch area. Doug

You don't need any air coming in for a roof membrane to balloon up, it's uplift from the air moving over it at speed, the same that happens with high winds sucking a roof off a house, which is not caused by the wind blowing in the windows and doors, although that would help it along. It's the same principle that lifts a 737 off the ground. Its not the the air under the wing pushing it up but the pressure differential between below and above the wing.

Thermoguy wrote:
I'm surprised how many RV's I see headed down the road with a big bubble of roof in the front. Seems like a more than typical problem. I would think an inspection (for caulking, etc) you would see stretch marks and wonder why it looks that way. More people need to look at their roofs.

Believe it or not, but doing an inspection on a roof will rarely show WHERE the air is coming in. You will see the result of air billowing, but a direct visual cause is rare, unless the rubber has actually pulled out of the front cap sealed aluminum strip. I have had air coming in thru clearance lights in the front cap and on the top front side clearance lights and also from below by the hitch area. Doug

RE: Rhino ECO Roof Replacement vs. TPO or Rubber???

I posted this a couple of years ago. Sorry that the pictures didn't come through. Roof still looks great. Look at the DRV Forum, under Problem & repairs to see pictures This year, I took on completely re-coating my RV roof with Henry 877 Tropi-Cool 100% Silicone White Roof Coating. Products cost about the same online or Home Depot. $239.89 for large tub of Henry's coating and $12.99 per tube of caulking. If you see from my previous post a couple of weeks ago, I did a lot of research trying to find the best product to repair/re-coat my RV roof with. I worked like a dog for nearly a week trying to beat the Fall weather. Wished I could of done the roof repair/coating in better weather conditions. Sweating bullets all week worrying about the possibility of rainy weather. Below is my step-by step process, along with before/after pictures. CAUTION! Slow down on the roof. If you fall off you will probably spend a lot of time in the hospital recovering if you are lucky! My Process Well it took me most of a week to completely re-coat my RV roof! Tuesday Morning Using a mixture of bleach, TSP, and water, hand scrub the entire roof (I did use a pressure washer to get the dirt out from under the roof air conditioner units). This took me a good part of the day alone! Peel off the old, very thin rubber coating Three and a half days later, wearing out a pair of leather gloves, I thought I gave it my best shot at getting off the old coating Saturday Afternoon Apply the new coating Clean out all of the old caulking above the roof gutter and replace it with new Henry's caulking. Mix the coating with a drill. Pour out about one quart into a paint tray. The Henry 877 coating pours out like the thickness of pancake syrup. Use a leaf blower to blow off any material laying on the roof Begin applying the Henry 877 using a four inch paint brush to do the corners, sides, roof pipe outlets, vents and air conditioners. I only did a 5 to 7 foot section at a time. Use a 9 inch long by 1/2 inch nap paint roller to spread out the Henry's roof coating. This took about two to three hours to fully cover the 8 foot wide by 34 foot long 5th wheel roof with one coat. On the next day, apply a second coat. I used about a full 5 gallon tub/container to do two coats. Lessons Learned: Try to apply the coating on fairly calm day. The wind can carry the coating in the air when applying it. I applied the coating when the temperature was in the mid 60's to upper 68 degrees. Sun helps, but I cannot imagine trying to apply Henry's coating or any other roof coating on a day when it is approaching upper 70 degrees or higher. Too hot for me to do a roof!. The roof must be completely dry before applying the new coating. During the Fall season, moisture in the morning is hard to dry off the roof, you may have to wait for the sun to come out. Dampness or morning dew can take several hours to dry off the roof. Give yourself plenty of time to do a good job. The faster you try to apply the roof caulking or roof coating you are most likely to do a sloppy job and have a mess. Conclusion Got lucky this time around! Henry's 877 when on fine, thick enough to be impressive and I believe I made the right product choice. * This post was last edited 11/26/20 05:30pm by Chuck

I'm surprised how many RV's I see headed down the road with a big bubble of roof in the front. Seems like a more than typical problem. I would think an inspection (for caulking, etc) you would see stretch marks and wonder why it looks that way. More people need to look at their roofs.

Johnnybgood wrote:
Check into rv flex armor roof. rvroof.com Had a quote of 5000 for our 35 foot a few years ago. Lifetime warranty.

Not meaning to hijack this, but thank you for this information.