Sailun S637 or Goodyear G614

Bottom line, we all have opinions and I would hope we are all here to learn from other peoples mistakes and their successes.

I may not agree or like what others may say but I am sure not so thin skinned I have to block anyone.

As one famous jerk said "caint we all jist get a long"

having been there, its easy to understand folks sticker shock at the price of G614's and other good tires .... its also easy to understand that not everyone places the same demand on their camper/tires .... when we were using our camper for mostly weekends and yearly vacation of a week or so, I was hard pressed to spend mega bucks for anything .... things changed once we retired and are on the road 6 - 7 months a year which includes a minimum of 2 long distance tows .... my point is pretty basic, not everyone needs/wants the level of gear of any sort that someone else many require .... recommendations from folks who have developed strong opinions about any given product may or may not have any validity for anyone else .... we use 614's for reasons that are important to us but that may well be worthless to others

Jim

Lantley wrote:
Boy do we get off track some time. After experiencing a blowout 2 days ago with my 2 year old OEM E rated Towmaster ST tires I am looking to buy new tires tomorrow.
For the record I had very little faith in the the tow masters from day one, but I figured I try to get a few miles out of them vs. getting new tires right away.

Luckily the blowout did not result in any damage to the 5'er.

My choices are the Sailun 637, GY14 or going to a 17.5 rim.

I've sort of shy'd away from the Duravis, or Michelin ribs, I want more capacity than a 3042 E rated tire. I agree that each tire carries a different weight. A 6000 pound axle does not equally place 3K on each tire.
I also think my blowout was caused by poor road conditions. You know the stretch of road that you feel every joint as you bounce and pound down the highway!
If I never encountered a that rough stretch of highway I do not think I would have had a blowout, but truth is poor roads are a fact of life. I ned a tire that can withstand the pounding of poor roads.

In the end I think 17.5 rims are the most foolproof approach, however the Sailun or GY should be adequate as well. What to do?
Price and availability maybe the deciding factor.
Actual purchase and use experience would be helpful vs. a lot of theoretical rhetoric.

I was in a similar situation as you a few months ago. I no longer wanted ST LR E tires on my RV. I was down to 3 choices, G614, Sailun or 17.5". After my research which included pricing scenarios I decided to save a bunch of coin and go with the Sailun. Under $200 mounted/balanced per tire put me significantly cheaper than the other 2 options. I have around 4k miles on them now and they have performed beautifully. There are a few others on this site that have more miles than me on them and I think they all like them. Not sure where you live, but the Sailun tires are very easy to source in the southeast US. Any tire dealer that gets tires from the distributor Caroll Tire can get them. They are sold under the Multi-Mile and Power King brand lines.

A lot of people are acting like the Sailun tires came to the market last month. They have been around for quite some time, so no need to have others "test" them for you. If you have any specific questions about them that I can answer just let me know.

Lantley wrote:
Boy do we get off track some time. After experiencing a blowout 2 days ago with my 2 year old OEM E rated Towmaster ST tires I am looking to buy new tires tomorrow.
For the record I had very little faith in the the tow masters from day one, but I figured I try to get a few miles out of them vs. getting new tires right away.

Luckily the blowout did not result in any damage to the 5'er.

My choices are the Sailun 637, GY14 or going to a 17.5 rim.

I've sort of shy'd away from the Duravis, or Michelin ribs, I want more capacity than a 3042 E rated tire. I agree that each tire carries a different weight. A 6000 pound axle does not equally place 3K on each tire.
I also think my blowout was caused by poor road conditions. You know the stretch of road that you feel every joint as you bounce and pound down the highway!
If I never encountered a that rough stretch of highway I do not think I would have had a blowout, but truth is poor roads are a fact of life. I ned a tire that can withstand the pounding of poor roads.

In the end I think 17.5 rims are the most foolproof approach, however the Sailun or GY should be adequate as well. What to do?
Price and availability maybe the deciding factor.
Actual purchase and use experience would be helpful vs. a lot of theoretical rhetoric.

I changed out my GY G tires last fall. I went with GY H 17.5" tires and Alcoa wheels a steel wheel and cheap tire for the spare.

Delivered to my door $3,200 mounted and concealed balancing metal valve stems from trailertiresandwheels.com. Tires were around 4 mo old.

I sold all the existing tires/wheels including spare for $1,000 on crags list.

If quality and dependability are important this is the way to go. IMHO

NC Hauler wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

vwsportbug wrote:
For those of you who say that the original poster could run the G614's with 80 PSI, I expect that Goodyear's weight/vs pressure tables might bear that out but I prefer to carry higher PSI in my tires on a trailer with similar weights. I always run 105 PSI and can see no unusual wear after 3 years and 30,000 miles.

I know that under-inflation is one of the biggest problems with trailer tires but I've never seen any indication that over-inflation (as long as it is within the wheel/tire's capability) is an issue. Sure, the ride might be harsher but I don't see any evidence of that in my trailer's contents and doubt that 80 PSI vs 105 PSI would be noticeable at all in the trailer's ride quality.


I will err on the side of carrying too much PSI rather than too little....

The reason to run what the weight charts say is because in wet conditions you won't have as much stopping ability and the centers will wear pre maturely and the trailer won't track as well if over inflated. Per GY Tech Support.

When I went from E to G on my Avion I talked to GY Tech Support and they said to weigh each tire then use weight chart based on the heaviest tire then add 5psi.

Do what you want, but that is what GY Tech Support recommended. May be worth a call.

Who you going to believe, I've run 110 psi in my tires, PER GY Tech Support in the SNOW and in POURING rain...my tires have NEVER worn in the center,(and I really do know about some of the tire issues), and my traction and stopping were fine...with some common sense...didn't mean to tow in the snow, but got caught in several inches and towed almost 100 miles in it from Sevierville TN to ASheville NC, all mountains...don't really recommend it, but no center tire wear and no traction issues...

Seriously, how many people can find the time AND the resources to weigh EACH tire, look at a chart and "fill accordingly"? Seriously, without any hassle...I've followed the tire placards air pressure recommendations on my TT's, pop-up's a Hi-Lo and my 5er's since 75 and NEVER had a tire failure or premature wear of the tires. The one tire failure with the GY G614's, very well may have been caused by the weak sagging spring pack on that tires side axle....

ON EDIT: you KNOW "WE'RE" buddies, so none of this is written in spite, nor am I mad at anyone, but having worked with tire Engineers, and having spoken with Tire Engineers, (also the Service Rep from tech support who IS an engineer), sounds like THEY can't get THEIR stories straight...:h

So I will err to side of sound judgment and recommendations for my tires..it's worked for 38 years so far:)

Jim, re read what I said Tech is going to tell you (everyone) to run what the trailer mfg says. The reason is a CYA for one the other is because the trailer mfg only put tires on that barely cover the max trailer weight. So for you 110 is fine unless YOU want to go by the weight charts if you hardly carry a load.

My below quote is what should be done when up sizing tires.

"When I went from E to G on my Avion I talked to GY Tech Support and they said to weigh each tire then use weight chart based on the heaviest tire then add 5psi. "

When I say "you" I don't always mean you personally, that is probably where my communication skills are lacking!

Thanks!

I bought 17.5" rims and Sumitomo tires last year for $550 each mounted, balanced and delivered. I wanted to get the G614 but it was close to $400 mounted and every thread I read on the G614 never got past page two without someone posting that when the tire blew Goodyear would pay for damages. I have a $50 deductable on my trailer so that wasn't what I wanted. I was lucky when my tires blew they just took out the fenderwell and some trim and I could still use the trailer but I couldn't drive in the rain because the water would go in the trailer so it was a pain. Then I had to leave my trailer at a repair shop and it is never the same as the original. I made up my mind that I wanted the best tire I could get so I didn't have to go through that again. I guess I paid $600 for that peace of mind and haven't regreted it. I read about the Sailun, the redesigned G614 and the redesigned Carlisle RH but I will let someone else test these.
Brian

Boy do we get off track some time. After experiencing a blowout 2 days ago with my 2 year old OEM E rated Towmaster ST tires I am looking to buy new tires tomorrow.
For the record I had very little faith in the the tow masters from day one, but I figured I try to get a few miles out of them vs. getting new tires right away.

Luckily the blowout did not result in any damage to the 5'er.

My choices are the Sailun 637, GY14 or going to a 17.5 rim.

I've sort of shy'd away from the Duravis, or Michelin ribs, I want more capacity than a 3042 E rated tire. I agree that each tire carries a different weight. A 6000 pound axle does not equally place 3K on each tire.
I also think my blowout was caused by poor road conditions. You know the stretch of road that you feel every joint as you bounce and pound down the highway!
If I never encountered a that rough stretch of highway I do not think I would have had a blowout, but truth is poor roads are a fact of life. I ned a tire that can withstand the pounding of poor roads.

In the end I think 17.5 rims are the most foolproof approach, however the Sailun or GY should be adequate as well. What to do?
Price and availability maybe the deciding factor.
Actual purchase and use experience would be helpful vs. a lot of theoretical rhetoric.

Cummins12V98 wrote:

vwsportbug wrote:
For those of you who say that the original poster could run the G614's with 80 PSI, I expect that Goodyear's weight/vs pressure tables might bear that out but I prefer to carry higher PSI in my tires on a trailer with similar weights. I always run 105 PSI and can see no unusual wear after 3 years and 30,000 miles.

I know that under-inflation is one of the biggest problems with trailer tires but I've never seen any indication that over-inflation (as long as it is within the wheel/tire's capability) is an issue. Sure, the ride might be harsher but I don't see any evidence of that in my trailer's contents and doubt that 80 PSI vs 105 PSI would be noticeable at all in the trailer's ride quality.


I will err on the side of carrying too much PSI rather than too little....

The reason to run what the weight charts say is because in wet conditions you won't have as much stopping ability and the centers will wear pre maturely and the trailer won't track as well if over inflated. Per GY Tech Support.

When I went from E to G on my Avion I talked to GY Tech Support and they said to weigh each tire then use weight chart based on the heaviest tire then add 5psi.

Do what you want, but that is what GY Tech Support recommended. May be worth a call.

Who you going to believe, I've run 110 psi in my tires, PER GY Tech Support in the SNOW and in POURING rain...my tires have NEVER worn in the center,(and I really do know about some of the tire issues), and my traction and stopping were fine...with some common sense...didn't mean to tow in the snow, but got caught in several inches and towed almost 100 miles in it from Sevierville TN to ASheville NC, all mountains...don't really recommend it, but no center tire wear and no traction issues...

Seriously, how many people can find the time AND the resources to weigh EACH tire, look at a chart and "fill accordingly"? Seriously, without any hassle...I've followed the tire placards air pressure recommendations on my TT's, pop-up's a Hi-Lo and my 5er's since 75 and NEVER had a tire failure or premature wear of the tires. The one tire failure with the GY G614's, very well may have been caused by the weak sagging spring pack on that tires side axle....

ON EDIT: you KNOW "WE'RE" buddies, so none of this is written in spite, nor am I mad at anyone, but having worked with tire Engineers, and having spoken with Tire Engineers, (also the Service Rep from tech support who IS an engineer), sounds like THEY can't get THEIR stories straight...:h

So I will err to side of sound judgment and recommendations for my tires..it's worked for 38 years so far:)

Cummins12V98 wrote:

NC Hauler wrote:

JEBar wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
What were the approximate build dates of the tires that went bad? How many miles were on the tires when they blew?

As you said no way to tell what caused the tires to pop. So GY still stepped up and paid. No tire company will pay for road hazard but from the many posts that I have read and from personal conversations they still seem to pay when is is a vague situation.

sorry, I don't recall the build dates but when we buy tires I require them to have a build date that shows they are less than 6 months old .... miles is another thing, we are on the road for 6 - 7 months a year so I tend to believe we tow more miles than most .... we are from NC and spend the winter in Texas and the summer in SD .... as a pure guess I'd estimate abut 10,000 miles a year .... G614's run 110 psi (we actually keep the cold pressure of ours at 100 psi) and, at least for us, when they let go, they really let go .... the part that was still on the rim has been pretty well shredded .... I really don't believe that it would be possible to tell the cause from what is left .... with us they have paid 100% all three times

Jim

What is the GVW of your 5er? My 5er, a 39'6", 4 slide HR with a GVW of 16,950 came with the GY G614's..Manufacturer of my 5er recommended running tires at 110 psi, as did Good Year....I spoke with a Goodyear Rep at a Wingfoot about 2 weeks ago and again was told the same thing. I asked him about using the scales to take the weight of each tire and use weight tables and was told what I already knew. "IF" one wants to go through that, go ahead, but your covered, with no effect to the tire if you run at max sidewall pressure, less heat build up, best wear pattern, again, that was a GY rep. I've had my best wear and no heat issues running my tires with my 5er loaded to about 15,950# @ the recommended tire pressure of 110 psi...

You are probably close enough to your tires has weight to run 110# with no or little ill effect.

You will get a different story from GY Tcch Support than a Wingfoot rep. The Tech will tell you if your loaded weight is much under the max load for the tire it is advised to use the weight charts. Example going from an E to G tire. They will not contradict what the trailer mfg has for psi. The fact is most RV's need to be at max psi becaust the trailer mfg only supplies tires to just make the grade with none or very little cushion.

No, you mis-read my post...I stated it was a GY tech that was in HIS support region, He was an Engineer with Goodyear, (I've worked in the tire industry some), HE personally told me what I posted.

I know some swear by these weight charts BUT, I've had AS MANY tell me, that if not convenient, (which IN MOST cases, it isn't, to get scales and weigh EACH wheels capacity), to fill to max sidewall, per the ENGINEER, doesn't hurt a thing, including the tire..This is also the case with the many Engineers I've dealt with from Continental, part of my company(Continental/General tires)...I spent about an hour talking to this guy, again, understand, HE WASN'T a Wingfoot tech...He is a GY Support Tech with an Engineering degree...

One more time, I was told by this Engineer Support Rep from Goodyear, that running my tires at 110 was the best route to go, ESPECIALLY with all the towing I do on curvy mountainous roads, keeps heat down and gives more support in the sidewalls when taking a lot of curves on mountainous secondary roads...it is also what the manufacturer of my 5er recommended.....In other words, I got the info on "MY" tires "straight from the horses mouth" so to speak....The years in question, per this gentlemen, were 04' thru 07....his words, not mine. Seems more failures with those tires.

Now understand, I've posted this information numerous times and still get, "use the weight table"....it is NOT THAT important when it comes to these trailer tires....they're out there, to once again, cover the tire manufacturers tail's. I mean it works, but most know, including the tire manufacturers, that weighing each tire and matching it with a recommended tire pressure for that particular tires isn't going to be done by any where NEAR the majority of TT and 5th wheel owners across these United Sates....not going to happen...Per Engineers with both Goodyear and Continental,running at max sidewall pressure will not harm the tire, (talking of being used in a towing example)

My last set of tires were manufactured in 06', replaced a little over 4 years later, ran at 110 psi and looked as good as the day I drove the 5er off the lot, brand new..

vwsportbug wrote:
For those of you who say that the original poster could run the G614's with 80 PSI, I expect that Goodyear's weight/vs pressure tables might bear that out but I prefer to carry higher PSI in my tires on a trailer with similar weights. I always run 105 PSI and can see no unusual wear after 3 years and 30,000 miles.

I know that under-inflation is one of the biggest problems with trailer tires but I've never seen any indication that over-inflation (as long as it is within the wheel/tire's capability) is an issue. Sure, the ride might be harsher but I don't see any evidence of that in my trailer's contents and doubt that 80 PSI vs 105 PSI would be noticeable at all in the trailer's ride quality.


I will err on the side of carrying too much PSI rather than too little....

I think those that want to post about over/under inflation pressures should first define their perception of what those are.

The vehicle manufacturer determines what a normal correct pressure is and places those pressure (s) on the vehicle’s certification label/tire placard. Normal deviations from those recommendations are found in the vehicle’s owner’s manual.

Under inflation pressures would be those less than what is recommended by the vehicle manufacturer and likewise for over inflation pressures.

Different sized replacement tires derive their recommended tire pressures from the Original Equipment (OE) tires, that means the tire pressure for them would be that which would provide an equal load capacity compared to the OE tires.

That’s how it’s supposed to work. Most deviations from those standards are derived from tire manufacturers information that is improperly applied from misunderstandings. Tire manufacturers will not knowingly overrule tire pressures set by vehicle manufacturers. Tire manufacturers build tires for a purpose. The purpose is decided upon by vehicle manufacturers.

FastEagle