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debili's avatar
debili
Explorer
Jun 09, 2021

Same problem as last summer AC leaking inside

Hi all Im back same problem as last yr. My AC in front Bedrm. is leaking inside. Both seals were replaced at the end of last summer.
I was on top of RV this am removed cover there is nothing blocking the drain holes if I am looking in correct place.
I called the guy that replaced them he told me of other rare thing the four bolts in four corners to tighten to hold unit tighter did that and again its leaking.
He insists it is the drain holes are clogged.
Does anyone have a diagram or drawing to show me where these stupid holes are? There is no tube or hose.
I did not remove front housing of the unit and do not believe that I need to? The cover yes the housing no please help.
2011 Jayco Eagle 351RTLS
  • Don't know of last summer problem, fix, results??

    Is it freezing up, then dripping on inside?? Maybe time for a good cleaning, under that housing?
    Is it leaking when it rains?

    You should have been able to see the drain holes.

    Jerry
  • Mine would let the hot damp air from the intake mix with the cold air on the way to vents. When I blocked that it stopped.
  • Drip pan is directly underneath the EVAP Coil which is under the sealed cover after removing the shroud

    Return air filter...remove and you can see the Evap Coil...feel around and you will notice if drip pan is wet/holding water from condensation
    If holding water then drain holes are clogged/obstructed...they are on each side of drip pan at the edges of EVAP Coil
    Can only get the drip pan drain holes by removing shroud then opening the sealed compartment where Evap coil is...might have to 'push evap coil' aside to get to them

    The 4 hold down bolts should only be SNUG ...finger tight then just a 1/4 turn or so
    TOO tight can crush the roof opening gasket, cause wrapping of roof line and/or Block the drip pan drain holes etc
    Should be 1/2" between bottom of A/C Unit and roof

    Warm Return Air mixing with cold discharge air via divider wall between them leaking will cause heavy condensation


  • If the 4 bolts are over tightened, it will warp the pan and allow the condensation to leak inside. The manufacture spec is only 14 ftpd, which is barely snug.

    Also, If you are in a high humidity area, and using the blast vent on the cover, it will condensate on the grill and drip, that is not a leak per say. The only way to combat this is to close the blast vent and send the air through the vents,
  • UGH so I did have a neighbor come over to help me inside he tightened the bolts really tight. I am short and can barley get the cover back on by myself as it is basically in middle of bed...so now I guess I need to re loosen them.
    I am trying to attach a photo but it is aksing for a url for the photo
  • Thanks for the picture, and description Old Biscuit. I used to know nothing about R.V. A/Cs, Now I know something.
  • Drain holes are also at the back of the shroud. The cover needs to come off. The four bolts from the insideneed to be more than finger tight. good and snug but that is not super tight.
  • eHoefler wrote:
    If the 4 bolts are over tightened, it will warp the pan and allow the condensation to leak inside. The manufacture spec is only 14 ftpd, which is barely snug.

    Also, If you are in a high humidity area, and using the blast vent on the cover, it will condensate on the grill and drip, that is not a leak per say. The only way to combat this is to close the blast vent and send the air through the vents,



    That spec is INCH Pounds...NOT Foot Pounds
  • I'll second the idea that the four bolts might be the issue. Not only should they be no tighter than specs, but I like to snug them down the same as I do with the lug nuts on a vehicle wheel - a bit at a time to ensure even seating of the seal. I had the same problem and although causes vary, mine was due to condensation leaking past the seal into the rig. Careful attention to the four bolt tightness solved my problem permanently.