Slide in = no heat...

2112 wrote:

Deb and Ed M wrote:

Us out West wrote:
Seems like you two are addressing each other personally so why not take it email or PM's?

:Z

Because this is surely helping others beside myself?

Like Me! Good Info, Thanks

I have to admit that a couple of Travelnutz's suggestions were more than I was willing to tackle: he's right, the little box (disguised as a small end table in my 5er) that stores the power cord sounds like it's not insulated. Rather than tear it apart, I decided I'll just toss a fleece throw over it at night...LOL! And since I'll have a couple of dog beds on the bedroom floor,insulating around the pin box didn't seem as important as blocking the AC vents, for example.

Deb and Ed M wrote:

Us out West wrote:
Seems like you two are addressing each other personally so why not take it email or PM's?

:Z

Because this is surely helping others beside myself?

Like Me! Good Info, Thanks

JoeWebPage wrote:
I'm a little bit late to the thread, but in regards to the original question about the slide covering the floor vents, I had this happen to me: If you cover enough vents, the heater will get warm enough to pop the overheat sensor, and do a "hard" shut down. Only completely shutting it off and then back on will get it going again.

Just an FYI.

I hadn't thought of that part - I just remember that my furnace guy who takes care of the house and business furnaces said that it's hard on the blower if you restrict too much heat. In MY case - I only have 4 registers, so the slide (when it's in) would be blocking 50% of the ductwork and I know that's too much restriction.

Us out West wrote:
Seems like you two are addressing each other personally so why not take it email or PM's?

:Z

Because this is surely helping others beside myself?

Travelnutz: we ALWAYS travel with an IR gun - I'll put it to use once we fire up the furnace!

I'm a little bit late to the thread, but in regards to the original question about the slide covering the floor vents, I had this happen to me: If you cover enough vents, the heater will get warm enough to pop the overheat sensor, and do a "hard" shut down. Only completely shutting it off and then back on will get it going again.

Just an FYI.

Deb,

As for holding the Lexan etc storms in place? NO holes with holding screws going thru them as it leads to cracks propagating from the mounting hole. The only hole may be for the lower RV tip out window crank out shaft to pass thru so the tip out window cab opened without taking the storm off. Will explain later. All of our storms I make/made are clamped on by using some of the existing window frame mounting screws. Depending on window size, I take out 2-3 on top and bottom, 1-2 on each side, place the appropriate sized fender washer on 2 of the screws so it will clamp on a sizable area of the Lexan when tightened. Put 2 of these screws back in on the bottom of the RV frame and leave plenty loose. It givs a loading shelf to set the storm on while putting in the other screws having either more fender washers or plastic turn screen door clamps, or plastic mirror holding clamps etc. What ever is best for the situation. Pre-spray paint the washers etc black if you don't want to see them and they leterally disappear. So many different window type so you have to use what works on any particular window. One person can easily and very quickly put a storm in or take it out. 1-2 minutes each once you get the hang of it. Even quicker if using turn clamps.

I go a step further as I put a small stainless steel hinged little window in the storm about 6" X 12" in size overlapping the storm window cutout hole in the kitchen window storm near the range. It stays toghtly closed thanks to a Velcro strap and instantly held open when wanted thanks to that same Velcro strap. Why the window in the storm? We seal all our range hood vents in winter and need a way to exhaust cooking heat or moisture effectively like anyone else. Open the little window and crank out the tip out window a little and open a roof vent a little when doing serious cooking and out goes the moisture etc and so fast. When done close them up and you are in true sealed/weatherized mode again with all storms in place. Might take all of 10 seconds to go from true seal to true vent! Remember that heated air always rises naturally and takes with it the humidity and cooking odors and fast.

I've written many times about this feature and many forum members have contacted me about doing it and how. I selectively email pics to those I feel I want to help as there are several on forums I choose not to communicate with period let alone send emails and I don't have to explain why! They know who they are!

Deb,

Long again but to tell it accurately, it needs words and lots of them.

Being a longtime and now retired engineer, I tend to go deeper into the details than most but most any RV/home owner can do this also as it so simple. Such as another very helpful action to find air leaks or lacking insulation fast or things heating up or being colder than they should be. It's easy with the use of an infrared temperature gun right off a store's shelves. They are extremely accurate. So many uses for home and RV's including checking tire temps when you pull into a rest area so you know instantly where tires problems are likely to come from. Checking of the hub center also tells you when the bearings are getting/going bad, need grease, or there's increased friction occurring for any reason such as a brake surface drag happening. Low pressure in tires creates excessive tire sidewall flexing which then creates heat buildup and the flexing and heat destroys tire structures fast, and the heating increases as speed increases, overloading tires and on which side, hot blacktop road surfaces that heats tires considerably, and other causes. You have to adjust your found results as to which side has had the hot sun (when it's a factor) constantly heating as that side can be 10-20+ degrees hotter than the shade side. Tires are black and absorb so much of the sun's heat!

Who wants a blowout or shredded tire and wouldn't you want to know about a problem BEFORE failure happens? Works on vehicle tires also. They can be purchased in many places, big box stores, Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, Lowes, Menards, Home Depot, and so many more and the price will vary greatly. I bought 2 new ones a couple years ago for $19.97 each just to keep in our 2 tow vehicles since any trailer or the TC won't be going anywhere without the motorized vehicle! Have another infrared gun in the home i've had for years and been been using.

For use in your RV "after" you sealed the obvious leaks etc you've found, the temp outside the RV needs to be either hotter or colder outside than the remp inside by at least 20 degrees or more. In cold outside temps, you heat the inside up to at least 20 degrees higher than outside for a min of 24 hours. 30+ degrees and 48 hours even works better and the infrared reading differences are more vivid and accurately found. Close every window and door tightly. Open one ceiling vent that has a good exhaust fan such as ventline etc for best results. If there's no exhaust fan, i've used a 14" or 16" square box fan against the vent hole blowing out. It must cover the entire 14 X 14 hole. Lots of ways to keep it tightly up there so you don't have to hold it up. Clamp it up with 2 telescoping or spring loaded shower rod adjustable rods holding on opposite corners with the other end in the shower base or the floor or a chair seat or a table or a secure solid riser buildup. I have even loosened 2 of the cross corner screws in the ceiling vent plastic housing and twisted simple steel wire around the screw and then twisted the other end around the box fan outside rim. Endless ways to hold it up there! The fan creates a sucking action to draw outside cold air in even the smallest leaks, cracks, or voids and forces cold air into the insulation voids so it gets colder.

After the RV temps are truely stabilized, let the exhaust fan run for about 5-10 minutes and yes the heat/furnace will turn on and that's good as the heat is required. Keep the fan going and go around and point the gun at every corner and scan. Do every outside wall/window/door etc, along the entire floor, the ceiling, around every appliance, vent, in every cupboard and closet, and pinpoint the higher cold readings. You'll probably be surprised where some are and would never suspect it! Will even show you where insulation voids are or do not fully fill the hidden space behind. Be sure to write them down on a sketch made of the RV or home so you don't forget where some are. Now you'll know where attention is needed even after you thought you sealed all the leaks. It's the known as the standard Weatherization Testing Proceedure and it's so accurate. Works for hot air leaks and cold air leaks.

WOW!!! Thanks, Travelnutz!! I hadn't considered lining the gas compartments, for example (and I have plenty of Reflectix left). I printed your list and am heading back out to the 5er...

We only have one large pass-through storage area under the bedroom, and it's next to the furnace, so I'm guessing there's some ambient heat coming from that? I bought a wireless weather thermometer, so can check that once we are camping. Yes, there's a plastic corrugated bottom seal under the trailer that I plan to add a little Gorilla Tape to, where there's cutouts for the drain lines. I closed the AC vents - but forgot the AC unit itself - duh!! Baggie over the vent filter - check!

How do you hold the lexan on the windows? Double-sided tape on the frame?

I figure if we could make our 28' Class C with an exposed floor, tight enough to be heated with a single electric heater - then we should be able to do the same with this much-nicer (also 28') 5er.

Regarding the previous post: there's something magical about RV's - they take us to wonderful places where great memories are made. I totally understand how hard it is to part with one - we haven't let the Class C go, even if it only gets used a handful of times each year. At some point, we'll probably figure out which RV will work the best for us; and let the C go...and yes, I'll shed a few tears about that.....

Deb,

Kind of long but some of many ideas and/or hints:

The Reflextix you are using also works great on the inside of the all the cargo storage doors and held on with Gorilla Tape. Cut the one piece Reflectix about 3/4" smaller than the door and put the tape ALL around the outside edge so it doesn't interfer with the rubber gasket. I am assuming your Laredo has a sealed and hopefully insulated underbelly as that's very important. Also adjust the cargo etc doors so they contact the seal all 360 degrees. if you can move the door or rattle it when locked, it's going to leak air.

Look carefully at the propane storage compartment on both sides, inside the RV and in the compartment itself. Many propane compartment backwalls and side/top walls are not insulated on the inside. If you can't get to the back side, lining the inside of the propane compartment with Reflectix is the next best thing. Again use Gorilla Tape as it lasts for longer than you'll likely have the 5th wheel. Remember to tape all edges and seams totally so there's no air transference. Also check the front bulkhead (back wall of the front storage compartment) to see if it's a one piece of wood construction or if it's 2 pieces with insulation between. Again, if deemed more insulation is needed, Reflectix and tape it abest you can and seal all openings around wire passthru holes and voids with Reflectix, or backed fiberglass, or caulk etc to stop air flow.

Open the refrigerator outside door and seeif there's any voids around the fridge metal to structure members or walls. Stuff any voids or again seal the openings to prevent airflow.

Very seriously check out the back of the front pin box (hitch) for any air flow voids. Tough to do but you can stuff the inside with cut pieces of block foam or even backed fiberglass insulation if you then cver it with Reflectix and Gorilla Tape so water and mist can't get in to soak up the insulation as it will sit in there and rust the steel members.

Look at the shore cord storage box area and be sure it well insulated or insulate it. Remember that outside air goes thru the same hole the powercord does and it a very sloppy fit.

Put 15" X 15" plus foam 2" thick into an appropriate sized small plastic garbage bag and tape it in place on the back side so you can't see the tape and push them into the 14 X 14 roof vents. Easy to remove when wanting to open a vent or shove back in. Don't have to remove the vent crank as it just pushes into the foam like it isn't there. The side you see will be nice and flat. We use white or cream colored garbage bags so the blend in and you won't even notice them.

Outside range vent should be clipped tightly closed if you can reach it outside or you can simply remove the inside screen in the range hood and put a plastic baggie (twist type closing gallon bag) over the screen and scotch tape it on the back side so the front side looks just like it did without the bag on and snap the screen back in. Snap it out to cook and snap it back in when done. Some of ours slide in but it still works the same way.

Take the roof A/C inside cold air return vent covers off and stretch plastic wrap over them smoothe on the side you see. We scotch tape the back side with a couple small pieces of tape just enough to keep the front side smooth and put them back on the A/C unit. Also close all A/C ceiling vents and good as you can to severely reduce rising hot air going to the roof/attic.

The established average standards for heat loss is 50% thru the roof/ceiling, 25% thru the walls, and 25% thru the floor. So, the roof is the most important for insulating, the floor is next as it has much less square footage area than the walls, and then comes the walls. You can't pressurize a building/RV or create a vacuum in a building/RV. If air is prevented for coming in, air won't go out. Insulation limits thermal transference, the more the better. Reflectix, foil bubblewrap, etc reflects both heat and cold and in opposite directions and is excellent as a vapor barrier at the same time.

For window thermal treatments, we always order atorm windows on our RV's. If not offered, I make my own from .220 (so called 1/4" but it's not) Lexan or even polycarbonate and they work as good or better than OEM glass storms. They weigh a lot less and don't break as easy as glass but you have to be a little careful not to scratch them. Your using of Reflectix on your windows sure does work good and are cheap to make but as you noted, you can't see thru them etc.

Just a few of many cheap and easy ways to weatherize an RV so it as comfortable or evn moreso than a well built home. A lot also depends on how well the RV is built and was insulated but there's so much you can do the make it still a lot better.

We have camped in way below zero temps in the U.P. and Canada for days many times and have never yet had a single thing in our weatherized RV's freeze including any and all water lines. Also you will find there are zero drafts or cold floors in the RV and so little sweating in the walls and ceiling which means must less or no mold, mildew, or rot over time.

Deb,

It's sad for her to not have it anymore but she can't help but feel the right people got her 5th wheel so it has to cheer her up some. Might be nice to give her a call sometime after you get back from your Florida trip and relate some of the fun you and enjoyment had and how you appreciate the excellent care she gave the 5th wheel while she had it and that you will keep it good as new. It would even cheer her up more and make her feel even more strongly that her happy days with the 5th wheel are living on with you and Ed.

We've nearly always purchased all of our RV new or ordered them but one in particular was purchased from a local widow we knew who's husband got lung cancer and lingered for 3 years before dying. They only got to use the new RV most of one season and there it sat, their basically new RV with a cover on it. Finally she needed the money bad and we knew it and we gave her exactly what she wanted for it, no haggling at all as we knew how bad she needed to sell it. She had tears in her eyes and it really touched us deeply. Money is so far from everything! We kept it for 7 years and sold it to a friend who still has it and loves it.

Her son, who we saw and talked to in Meijers, told us how much she appreciated knowing we were very happy with her & her late husband's RV and that his Mom mentioned that she'd sure like see it again sometime. It was in the summer, So we drove it over to her home the next day, which is only about 8 miles away, and let her check it inside and out for close to 3 hours and asking us questions about where all we'd gone with it. She smiled from ear to ear constantly and thanked us profusely over and over. Seeing her so happy made us both very happy also and still does.