The Way “All” 5th Wheels Frames Should Be Built

IMO, you can have a quality, well engineered, somewhat heavier frame to be used in the less expensive, competitive market, without adding a large price to each unit! While the consumer may pay a little more up front....I believe in the long term, it would be a great investment for the consumer memtb

The Young made frames (painted white) were some of the best made!!!

YES my frame is built by Lippert BUT to DRV's specifications. Two 2x6 and one 2x3 steel tubes stacked to make a 2"x15" frame. Mine is rated 21k but scales at 24k with no issues.

My RV on the production line.

Lots of things add value but cost more.

I would put the money into a design that reduces leaks...far more RVs meet their end due to leaks than due to frame failures. It would certainly be possible to eliminate virtually all roof penetrations.

A heavy, quality built fifth wheel is great for those who need them but that market is limited. I have nothing to back it up other than what I see in rv parks and on the road, but it appears most folks want something they can tow with a 3/4 or maybe a one ton single rear wheel truck. My guess is that's why Montana bragged for years about being the best selling fifth wheel and why manufacturers like Excel and Nuwa are gone. I think quality is possible with lighter weight units but it will cost more to do which makes them less competitive with those who don't.

Looks like a good heavy built frame for that 43' unit.
I liked his point of their not using axles that have to much capacity for the job.

Rick, You are very correct about the engineering and then the manufacturers employing said engineering. The video (New Horizons) spent a little bit of time discussing bracing, gusseting, etc. not used on most RV frames.......as well as frame dimensions and wall thickness.

Ultimately, in comes down to the manufactures providing the best frames for our RV’s within reasonable costs! The sad reality is....the “bean counters” determine the quality of the product that is offered to the public. memtb

Modern engineering has routinely made products stronger and lighter using less material.

Yes the frame is critical, but far more than wall thickness is required. The engineering however is only as good as the managers will allow and the warranty will support. Both are powered by money!

At RV shows or dealerships the first thing to be done is get on hands & knees & inspect frames, especially in spring hanger mounting areas.

There are MFGRs claims about frame strength that are not entirely true. Our Carriage 5er boasted 3/16 wall.(.188) 2x6 Turns out 3/16 was only used in the front portion, under the load over axle portion was 1/8 wall (.125)
Yes we bent the frame there while following their load recommendations because of a massive (unmarked construction bridge ) bump in the road. A spendy fix. It also tore out the rubber morryde equalizers
I belatedly determined the thinner wall tubing by the radius of the corners of the tubing. When rectangular tube is formed, the wall thickness creates a more square corner depending on wall thickness. It does not take an engineering degree to see the 50% increase in strength from the difference, or the maybe $20 in cost to them and the extra 50 # to make a frame that can take all the road may throw at it.


So look at the frame. If you see any portion that looks different, like squarer corners on tubular, or narrower or thinner flanges on I Beam frames. Question it. they are lighter, thinner than the more radiused corners of heavier tubing.

If I were to get a “new” (unlikely) RV, Arctic Fox would be on the short list.....if I won a big lottery, New Horizons would be the “only” one on the list. Meanwhile, I hope that our old Teton will carry us to the end of our RV’ing days! memtb