Just got back from getting a leak patch on my fiver tire. They are goodyear marathons E rated on alluminum rims. Does anyone know what the torque specs are or where I could find them?

Jim4929 wrote:Just got back from getting a leak patch on my fiver tire. They are goodyear marathons E rated on alluminum rims. Does anyone know what the torque specs are or where I could find them?They =should= be in your owner's manual, but 110 lb ft is usually a pretty good number. I have E-rated alum rims, and that's what my book says.FWIW, touch wood, I've never had one come loose, and I check them before every trip and after each set of tires went on.Lyle

Trailer wheels are typically 90 - 110 if the nut is about 13/16". They just add more lugs as the weight rating increases. New wheels usually have a sticker that wears off with age.

I have this chart printed out and is kept in trailer. https://www.etrailer.com/question-75604.html

Probably the best thing to do is completely remove wheels :)Do some research on Marathon tries.I think you are supposed to torque in 3 stages. 20-30. 50-60. 110-120.

Lug nuts on aluminum wheels are notorious for loosening up. Be sure to retorque after 50 - 100 miles.

Torque Specs on Fifth Wheel lug nuts | Good Sam Community

hotpepperkid
Explorer
May 11, 2017
I retorque mine everytime we stop the first day and after that once a week, but they have always been OK after the first day
ol_Bombero-JC
Explorer
May 05, 2017
bpounds wrote:
NMDriver wrote:
Plus you are suppose to torque with no weight on the wheel ...

Can you site a source for this little tidbit? Because I think it is nonsense, until I see an authoritative source that differs. I've never done that, and never seen anyone do that.

Old Wives using torque wrenches = "Old Wives Tale"..:R

~
bpounds
Nomad
May 05, 2017
NMDriver wrote:
Plus you are suppose to torque with no weight on the wheel ...

Can you site a source for this little tidbit? Because I think it is nonsense, until I see an authoritative source that differs. I've never done that, and never seen anyone do that.
kohai
Explorer
May 04, 2017
I check my lug nuts once every trip -- usually at the start. I'm surprised that maybe 2-3 times a year one lug nut will tighten a bit. I should start tracking to see if it is the same one.
fj12ryder
Explorer III
May 04, 2017
I've never been worried about the tire being on the ground during the final tightening. Just not a big deal to me. I've never had one come off, and have never failed being able to get one off either. Works for me.
NMDriver
Explorer
May 04, 2017
Never been able to torque ANY lug nut unless tire is on ground preventing wheel from rotating :H

Maybe you cannot I can. I can chock the tire to stop rotation or apply the brakes. OR use the alternate method mentioned of rotating the tire 180 degrees to change the weight on the lugs. What is to hard to understand about that?

On a 15 to 16 inch tire I can brace the edge of the tire with my knee and put 90 lbs of torque to the lug without the tire rotating.
MarkTwain
Explorer
May 04, 2017
Jim4929 wrote:
Just got back from getting a leak patch on my fiver tire. They are goodyear marathons E rated on alluminum rims. Does anyone know what the torque specs are or where I could find them?

Call customer service of the Mfg. of your 5th. wheel.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
May 04, 2017
Chart from etrailer.com

Never been able to torque ANY lug nut unless tire is on ground preventing wheel from rotating :H
NMDriver
Explorer
May 04, 2017
Plus you are suppose to torque with no weight on the wheel in a star pattern or you can torque and then roll the tire 180 degrees and torque again in a star pattern.
Mortimer_Brewst
Explorer II
May 04, 2017
Lug nuts on aluminum wheels are notorious for loosening up. Be sure to retorque after 50 - 100 miles.