trailer connection issues

[tomthyme]

Hello Folks!
On my 2015 F350 there is an on screen display that shows me when the 5'er is connected, or disconnected.

For some reason, the connection recently became intermittent. I have checked the in-bed connector, and wiring harness from the 5'er, etc but haven't found anything frayed or wrong that might be causing the system to read "connected" then "disconnected" (it swaps every couple of minutes). It doesn't seem to be associated with braking cycles, etc.

Additionally, the brakes when applied from the truck appear to not be doing the same job they used to when stopping. As a test, I pulled the emergency pin which locked up the brakes just fine on the rig, so I don't think it is the trailer.

I made a cursory check of the fuses on the truck and will go back to check them again, but any other ideas out there?

Thanks

[bpounds]

aviator41 wrote:
Electrolytic grease is good stuff...

I think you mean Dielectric Grease. Maybe? I've never heard of electrolytic grease, but grease with electrolyte in it does not sound right.

[tomthyme]

Ok, you folks rock!

I lifted the rig and tested each wheel by spinning then pulling the emergency cord. Driver side checked out fine. The passenger side however didn't fair so well. In fact, neither of the two wheels showed any braking capacity at all. Upon inspection, the front axle had a frayed wire at the connection just outside the drum! Whew - easy fix! The rear axle wires were good on the passenger side, but when traced back to the driver side, the sending wires (that run through the axle from left to right) were frayed. Whew - easy fix #2. Perform spin test again - everything works. I then connected the truck and took a few victory laps around town.

Thanks so much for the help!

[thomas201]

As others have said, most likely on the trailer. However, it could also be the Ford trailer brake controller. I had mine replaced on a long trip in Steamboat Springs Colorado. Many thanks to the Ford dealer there, who did it for a traveler. Oh yes, mine failed on the Million Dollar Highway, between Durango and Silverton.

[ACZL]

My guess is that you have an issue w/ your trailer. Look under "towing" for the thread about intermittent brakes as suggested. I had same problem w/ a brand new snowmobile trailer. 1st year was AOK, next year NADA. Turns out 3 of 4 brakes were shot and wires not connected to things at brake end. Read my 1st post what was going on w/ my truck and what it was saying.

[CoMoCo]

snipe wrote:
Had a similar issue with my brakes 2 years ago, brake controller was identifying an issue with trailer brake connections, it turned out to be a broken wire going to the magnet inside the brake drum that was shorting out intermittently to ground on the brake assembly. As a test raise up each wheel one at a time and spin the wheel, activate the brakes pulling the emergency cutoff switch cable, that is how I found my issue.

Same issue here. We bought a new truck last year (2015 Sierra 3500HD) and we had occasional messages. Tried all new connectors - didn't resolve. It was a badly frayed wire near a magnet.

These new controllers in the new trucks are very good!

[camr]

I agree with Aviator41's suggestion above. The grease I use is called dielectric grease, but it is likely the same stuff. Years ago when we purchased our first travel trailer, the service manager told me that if I used it faithfully and liberally, that I wouldn't have any pigtail connector issues. He was correct. I swear by the stuff.

[aviator41]

Electrolytic grease is good stuff. it can help the connection with water resistance, keep corrosion gremlins away, and prevent galling of the pins and sockets when connecting/disconnecting the rig. I keep a small tube just inside the basement door and give a little dab after I tow in the rain/snow/mud to each pin in the socket. The rest of the time, if it starts to look dry, I'll give it a dab.

It can be found in most auto parts stores.

[jsum]

tomthyme wrote:
Hello Folks!
On my 2015 F350 there is an on screen display that shows me when the 5'er is connected, or disconnected.

For some reason, the connection recently became intermittent. I have checked the in-bed connector, and wiring harness from the 5'er, etc but haven't found anything frayed or wrong that might be causing the system to read "connected" then "disconnected" (it swaps every couple of minutes). It doesn't seem to be associated with braking cycles, etc.

Additionally, the brakes when applied from the truck appear to not be doing the same job they used to when stopping. As a test, I pulled the emergency pin which locked up the brakes just fine on the rig, so I don't think it is the trailer.

I made a cursory check of the fuses on the truck and will go back to check them again, but any other ideas out there?

Thanks

I had a problem with mine. It turned out to be a ground problem on my truck.

[snipe]

Had a similar issue with my brakes 2 years ago, brake controller was identifying an issue with trailer brake connections, it turned out to be a broken wire going to the magnet inside the brake drum that was shorting out intermittently to ground on the brake assembly. As a test raise up each wheel one at a time and spin the wheel, activate the brakes pulling the emergency cutoff switch cable, that is how I found my issue.

[Nicholsfamily05]

http://forums.goodsamclub.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28875497.cfm

There is my thread.

[Nicholsfamily05]

I just had the same issue with my truck and trailer recently. Haven't learned how to pin other threads here but if you look under my posts you can find it.

It's labeled. "Intermittent brakes".

Turned out to big a pretty good issue and waiting to see what it's going to cost me when I go to pick up the trailer.

[Artum_Snowbird]

Basically, all the positive wiring bits you send to the camper all pass through their loads, then are gathered up and come back to the truck as a common negative. The negative wire thereby carries the most current, and as a result usually faults the most because of heating and cooling.

You said your brakes seem less effective, and the connection seems to flutter. Somewhere, you have a bad negative return wire. If you get to the point where the connection goes bad, connect a jumper to your truck negative, and connect to the trailer battery negative. If that fixes it, first identify the wire to the trailer plug from the battery. Take the plug apart and tighten the individual wire holding screws. Also check the negative battery terminal on the trailer.

Still a problem? Keep using the jumper to short out smaller sections of the wiring to see if you can isolate one part, either the truck side or the trailer side.

[lawnspecialties]

The 7 pin connection. I've had this happen a few times on prior trucks of mine.

[tomthyme]

rhagfo wrote:
Get some electrical contact cleaner and use as directed on both sides of the connection.

which connection? the one from the 5'er to the truck?

Thanks