Aug-04-2014 06:46 AM
Aug-05-2014 06:55 AM
Me Again wrote:laknox wrote:
Personally, I went from the OEM D's to E's on my 11.3k GVW FW and I run them at 80 all the time. Living in AZ, where towing is almost always hot, it can't hurt. Yesterday, coming down I-17 from Flagstaff, I stopped in N Phx for a drink and checked my tires. All 4 were in the 140s with the shadier side about 5 degrees cooler. Driving right at 65 mph and already having dumped, so running medium weight. Temp on my mirror was high-90's. I've also noticed that running the heavier tires at max psi makes tight turns a lot easier, with less creaking and groaning from the suspension, since the harder tires slide a bit easier. FWIW, were I to clean out my FW totally, and run light, I'd probably run at 70 psi...just because.
Lyle
If they side in corners easier, then they will side under braking easier! That is one of the issues that Michelin pointed out to me about over inflation. Decreased braking!
Did you check the temp of the TV tires at the same time you checked the trailer tires. At what temperature were they running. When I run from Phoenix to PS in 90 degree weather, my truck tires are around 125 and the trailer tires 119.
Chris
Aug-05-2014 05:40 AM
laknox wrote:
Personally, I went from the OEM D's to E's on my 11.3k GVW FW and I run them at 80 all the time. Living in AZ, where towing is almost always hot, it can't hurt. Yesterday, coming down I-17 from Flagstaff, I stopped in N Phx for a drink and checked my tires. All 4 were in the 140s with the shadier side about 5 degrees cooler. Driving right at 65 mph and already having dumped, so running medium weight. Temp on my mirror was high-90's. I've also noticed that running the heavier tires at max psi makes tight turns a lot easier, with less creaking and groaning from the suspension, since the harder tires slide a bit easier. FWIW, were I to clean out my FW totally, and run light, I'd probably run at 70 psi...just because.
Lyle
Aug-04-2014 10:29 PM
Aug-04-2014 08:10 PM
ol Bombero-JC wrote:NC Hauler wrote:crewstx wrote:
I have a 2010 Montana 3400RL with a total (ship+max carrying-tongue)weight of 13540 pounds and have been using GY Marathons 235/80R16 and blowing out tires and damaging sides of RV. I would like to upgrade to a better tire ( maybe a G rated tire or an LT tire but do not know which. Also how can I find out what pressure my rims will take in the tires. Montana will not tell me the pressure rating of my RIMS.
I "think" you're saying the GVW of your 5er is 13,540? If so, you probably have 6,000# rated axles....Believe a G rated tire might be over kill, but your call...I had a Coachmen with 6,000# rated axles and went with Michelin XPS RIBS, they are very expensive, but well worth the money/peace of mind...Also highly recommended is the Bridgestone Duravis...just had a brain toot and can't remember the model number, but "think" it's the R500...seem to be as good as the RIBS, but cost less....
I'd go with an "E" weight tire if the GVW of your 5er is only 13,540#. Odds are very good, at the very least, your rims will take 80 psi.....
.
Ditto the above - and XPS Ribs..:C
The PSI rating for your rims *should* be stamped on the backside (*not* inside) of the rims.
~
Aug-04-2014 07:33 PM
NC Hauler wrote:crewstx wrote:
I have a 2010 Montana 3400RL with a total (ship+max carrying-tongue)weight of 13540 pounds and have been using GY Marathons 235/80R16 and blowing out tires and damaging sides of RV. I would like to upgrade to a better tire ( maybe a G rated tire or an LT tire but do not know which. Also how can I find out what pressure my rims will take in the tires. Montana will not tell me the pressure rating of my RIMS.
I "think" you're saying the GVW of your 5er is 13,540? If so, you probably have 6,000# rated axles....Believe a G rated tire might be over kill, but your call...I had a Coachmen with 6,000# rated axles and went with Michelin XPS RIBS, they are very expensive, but well worth the money/peace of mind...Also highly recommended is the Bridgestone Duravis...just had a brain toot and can't remember the model number, but "think" it's the R500...seem to be as good as the RIBS, but cost less....
I'd go with an "E" weight tire if the GVW of your 5er is only 13,540#. Odds are very good, at the very least, your rims will take 80 psi.....
Aug-04-2014 06:50 PM
Aug-04-2014 05:21 PM
NC Hauler wrote:fj12ryder wrote:
They are the same labeled size, but I believe the G614 tires are about an inch less in overall diameter than the Sailun tires.
Yep....
Aug-04-2014 04:20 PM
fj12ryder wrote:
They are the same labeled size, but I believe the G614 tires are about an inch less in overall diameter than the Sailun tires.
Aug-04-2014 03:23 PM
Aug-04-2014 01:45 PM
Aug-04-2014 01:35 PM
Aug-04-2014 12:49 PM
Cummins12V98 wrote:
taken, BTW I was not directing my post to you. I was using your link to the charts.
Aug-04-2014 12:21 PM
NC Hauler wrote:Cummins12V98 wrote:taken wrote:Cummins12V98 wrote:taken wrote:RoyF wrote:
What pressure do you actually need in a G-rated tire? I'm asking because I put one Sailun G-rated tire on my Hitchhiker-II after a blowout in May. I'm running 80 psi in the Sailun, same as the other tires: two F-rated, and one E-rated which hasn't blown out (yet).
You need to run max pressure to get max capacity. For example, here is Goodyear's inflation table for their RV tires. Scroll down to the second chart and you'll see the 614 specs.
Clicky
Inflation table for GY G
Weight/inflation
3170----85
3300----90
3415----95
3550----100
3675----105
3750----110
Changing from E to G tires most will need to use the top number and inflation. NOT MAX PSI!!!!!!
What in the world are you talking about with all your exclamation points? I said to get the max capacity you need the max psi. In other words, different pressures get you different capacities. I never said that everyone needed that. Calm yourself and take a deep breath. It's going to be ok.
No one seems to understand the charts are there for a reason (some do). If you are running stock tires stick with what your RV mfg states and that number will most likely be MAX psi for the tire.
I am trying to make it clear that when going from let's say an E to a G tire one should use the inflation charts and not blindly airing to 110psi as shown on the side of the trie.
GY Tech will tell you to go by what the RV mfg says! But they WILL tell you to use the inflation/weight charts when upsizing the tires as in E to G.
I get it, I understand it and I agree with you if going up in tire weight:)
Aug-04-2014 12:19 PM
Cummins12V98 wrote:taken wrote:Cummins12V98 wrote:taken wrote:RoyF wrote:
What pressure do you actually need in a G-rated tire? I'm asking because I put one Sailun G-rated tire on my Hitchhiker-II after a blowout in May. I'm running 80 psi in the Sailun, same as the other tires: two F-rated, and one E-rated which hasn't blown out (yet).
You need to run max pressure to get max capacity. For example, here is Goodyear's inflation table for their RV tires. Scroll down to the second chart and you'll see the 614 specs.
Clicky
Inflation table for GY G
Weight/inflation
3170----85
3300----90
3415----95
3550----100
3675----105
3750----110
Changing from E to G tires most will need to use the top number and inflation. NOT MAX PSI!!!!!!
What in the world are you talking about with all your exclamation points? I said to get the max capacity you need the max psi. In other words, different pressures get you different capacities. I never said that everyone needed that. Calm yourself and take a deep breath. It's going to be ok.
No one seems to understand the charts are there for a reason (some do). If you are running stock tires stick with what your RV mfg states and that number will most likely be MAX psi for the tire.
I am trying to make it clear that when going from let's say an E to a G tire one should use the inflation charts and not blindly airing to 110psi as shown on the side of the trie.
GY Tech will tell you to go by what the RV mfg says! But they WILL tell you to use the inflation/weight charts when upsizing the tires as in E to G.
Aug-04-2014 12:18 PM
Cummins12V98 wrote:taken wrote:Cummins12V98 wrote:taken wrote:RoyF wrote:
What pressure do you actually need in a G-rated tire? I'm asking because I put one Sailun G-rated tire on my Hitchhiker-II after a blowout in May. I'm running 80 psi in the Sailun, same as the other tires: two F-rated, and one E-rated which hasn't blown out (yet).
You need to run max pressure to get max capacity. For example, here is Goodyear's inflation table for their RV tires. Scroll down to the second chart and you'll see the 614 specs.
Clicky
Inflation table for GY G
Weight/inflation
3170----85
3300----90
3415----95
3550----100
3675----105
3750----110
Changing from E to G tires most will need to use the top number and inflation. NOT MAX PSI!!!!!!
What in the world are you talking about with all your exclamation points? I said to get the max capacity you need the max psi. In other words, different pressures get you different capacities. I never said that everyone needed that. Calm yourself and take a deep breath. It's going to be ok.
No one seems to understand the charts are there for a reason (some do). If you are running stock tires stick with what your RV mfg states and that number will most likely be MAX psi for the tire.
I am trying to make it clear that when going from let's say an E to a G tire one should use the inflation charts and not blindly airing to 110psi as shown on the side of the trie.
GY Tech will tell you to go by what the RV mfg says! But they WILL tell you to use the inflation/weight charts when upsizing the tires as in E to G.