Water heater element location

Hey, thanks. I remember quite well one time I operated the rocker switch it was difficult to move and since I am of the get a bigger hammer set, I used some force and it made a "crunching" sound. I never tried it again as I was told that I had burned out the element by not having water in the tank. The element was really pretty sad looking so when I am camped at Bullhead City I'll get after it but after I dial in my satellite. Gotta watch "Better Call Saul":-)
Thanks once again.
Stan

Imaroadrunnr wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

KID2TEXAS wrote:
you sure your not talking about the Anode rod that some heaters have?

Atwood water heaters, which is what OP has (one in picture), do NOT use anode rods because they have aluminum tanks.

Suburban does use anode rods because they have a glass-lined STEEL tank and the anode rod protects it from rusting out (just like your residential water heaters)

I'm trying to get the electrical side of my Suburban WH to work but after installing a new element ($10) and turning everything on (1 rocker switch by the heater) and checking that all other CB's were in the on position, I waited over night and had a tank full of cold water. There isn't any voltage across the terminals of the element so maybe the rocker switch is fubar? Are these easy to replace? Do they just pop out? The propane side works flawlessly.
Thanks,
Stan
Las Vegas, NV
2001 Cedar Creek 34ft. 5er
2005 Ram CTD 3500 Dually
6 speed Bright White

Your Suburban uses direct fed for AC power to the electric element.
Circuit breaker in AC Power Panel send voltage to the ON/OFF switch (outside compartment) from switch to set of 120V AC t-stats (under rubber cover 'Push to Reset' above gas valve------LEFT set)
From the HI temp (top) to Normal temp (bottom) and then to element (black wire)

The On/Off Switch is cheap junk and being on outside compartment they corrode/fail. Just a 120V AC toggle switch and the pop out/snap in.

HI temp t-stat will trip if water temp goes above 170*F ( if normal doesn't open at 130*F). It has to be manually reset...Push the button

Connecting wire between HI and Normal can burn into
And the rolled edges of cut out area for t-stats can chaff the insulation on wires causing shorts (Black for 120V AC....other set is 12V DC for propane Red wires)


Easiest place to check for power is at the t-stats. Just remove cover and use a meter with switch ON.
No power to then switch is probably bad provided the CB is not tripped.

Old-Biscuit wrote:

KID2TEXAS wrote:
you sure your not talking about the Anode rod that some heaters have?

Atwood water heaters, which is what OP has (one in picture), do NOT use anode rods because they have aluminum tanks.

Suburban does use anode rods because they have a glass-lined STEEL tank and the anode rod protects it from rusting out (just like your residential water heaters)

I'm trying to get the electrical side of my Suburban WH to work but after installing a new element ($10) and turning everything on (1 rocker switch by the heater) and checking that all other CB's were in the on position, I waited over night and had a tank full of cold water. There isn't any voltage across the terminals of the element so maybe the rocker switch is fubar? Are these easy to replace? Do they just pop out? The propane side works flawlessly.
Thanks,
Stan
Las Vegas, NV
2001 Cedar Creek 34ft. 5er
2005 Ram CTD 3500 Dually
6 speed Bright White

KID2TEXAS wrote:
you sure your not talking about the Anode rod that some heaters have?

Atwood water heaters, which is what OP has (one in picture), do NOT use anode rods because they have aluminum tanks.

Suburban does use anode rods because they have a glass-lined STEEL tank and the anode rod protects it from rusting out (just like your residential water heaters)

you sure your not talking about the Anode rod that some heaters have?

Old-Biscuit wrote:



The components in outside compartment ----gas valve, burner tube etc are corroded due to the constant leaking of the T&P Relief Valve (see all the bluish/green on valve ---that is discolored brass from constant leaking)

You mean, from that drip that is hanging on the relief valve even as we type? LOL! Caught the culprit with the picture...

Tim

Your water heater electric element is on backside of water heater under a protective black plastic cover.
Your 2005 model uses 12V DC to active the 120V AC to element via a dc relay.
Only need to mess with electric element when they stop working




The components in outside compartment ----gas valve, burner tube etc are corroded due to the constant leaking of the T&P Relief Valve (see all the bluish/green on valve ---that is discolored brass from constant leaking)

Gas valve, burner tube -----surprised that it even fires up on propane.

enblethen wrote:
Water heat looks mighty tired for an '05.
Atwood manual

Yeah, I don't know why that is. The few times I've used it, it works well.

Water heat looks mighty tired for an '05.
Atwood manual

Don't even touch it if it is working fine. You will find it near the inside of your water heater where the pipes come out.

You should only inspect the anode, but seeing the plug in your picture, you do not have an anode in your unit.