Water tanks hitting axles

Those straps are actually solid aluminium. Bolted.

ATC is a correct and sanitary install.

hvac wrote:
This is how ATC does it. 100 gallon tank.

see the upper bracket and how the tank has a "lip" that's what is actually holding up the tank. The strap/self tapper was put there in a weak attempt to keep the tank off the axles.

I used 1" square tube on my old Wanderer to fix the issue.

We had the same problem on our 2012 Cyclone. I discovered the problem while trouble shooting a water leak. Both fresh water tanks had settled due to inadequate support which caused the crossover hose which connects the tanks to start leaking. I had new heavy duty supports fabricated by a local welding shop and added a fore/aft support to each tank. Thankfully I had an extended warranty that paid for the repair.

This is how ATC does it. 100 gallon tank.

You lucked out with rubbing on the axles not wearing a hole in the tank(s) and then having to replace them.

If I were you, I'd run 2x2 angle iron under each side of the outside edge of the tank and drill the cross members and bolt it on through them with bolts, nuts and lockwashers with one inverted angle down the centerline of the tank (front to back).

You aren't the only victim. Many threads on the Forest river forum about tanks actually dropping out on the highway. Can you imagine driving behind an RV on the freeway and suddenly have a water tank appear right in front of you (following behind). Not good

Like I stated earlier, the manufacturer don't care, the units ship with empty tanks so there is no weight involved and plumbers straps work fine... when empty

There was even a couple threads where the owners had covered under belly's and the tanks were bowing the underbelly covering out...

Amazing how cheap the construction is.... and expensive the retail price is. Somebody is making a lot of money.

Believe me, they aren't at all ashamed of substandard work. Remember, they ship with empty tanks so the tanks weigh NOTHING and plumbers straps work fine.

What I'm amazed about is, there isn't more electric issues with RV's. They do the wiring to (maybe) residential standards, using residential fixtures and connectors. Problem with that is, an RV is in a continuous 'earthquake' as you go down the fine roads that America is festooned with.

Don't think any mass RV builder knows what a Molex connector is or vibration resistant fixtures. The wiring is all point to point with little (if any) consideration for vibration or external forces that an RV encounters every day it's in use, that a residence never encounters unless it's in an earthquake or Hurricane.

lamopar wrote:


Here is a picture of the middle axle and the tank riding on it. You can see the strap and also see how much lower the tank is than the frame rails. I will have to make the cross bracing and vertical supports to hold the tank. Should be easy with some angle iron and all thread and some bracing. I will tack the nuts so they don't come loose.

Wow.
That is just horrible.
Strap with self taping screws holding it.
They should be ashamed of themselves.
My supports have all thread that is attached to the frame and go through the box supports and held on by nuts.
I think there is 3 or 4 supports per tank.
I will have to take a pix.

big buford wrote:
I used .120 wall 1 x 3 rectangular steel. fix it once...

So how many bars did you run under your tanks? I was thinking about 4 bars spread evenly across the tanks supported by all thread as my frame is more shallow than the tank is.

I used .120 wall 1 x 3 rectangular steel. fix it once...