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smashncreeper's avatar
smashncreeper
Explorer
Apr 19, 2017

1993 Dutchman Brake issues-2 wks working on it

Ok, this is my first time on this forum, but desperate times call for desperate measures. I have a 1993 four winds dutchmen class a. 34 ft. Chevy p30 chassis with a Chevy 454 and a 4l80e tranny. Its got a hydraulic brake system with disc brakes all the way around. To start off, any time we would sit for more then a day or two id have to put brake fluid in cause the brake light would come on. Diagnosis was master cylinder. While i was changing that i thought, might as well do the rest. (Im quite mechanically inclined). So i changed the master cylinder, the hydraulic brake booster, brake lines in front, calipers, pads. I ordered the master cylinder and replaced it FIVE TIMES because it was the wrong one. (Most parts have been discontinued) Thought we finally had the right one, got less then 15 miles down the road and the brakes (all four of them) locked up. I was able to decompress them and bleed and it unlocked but less then 5 miles and it did it again. And then again. We limped into a campground and ordered our SIXTH master cylinder. We (myself and a cert mechanic) put the newest one on and they stopped locking. But now theres no brakes at all. The pedal falls to the floor. We have bled the brakes over and over and over and still nothing. Weve had several mechanics look at it including an expert and we cant figure it out. Weve been broke down almost 2 weeks and have about exhausted our savings on this thing.... HELP PLEASE!! We have no idea what to do now. Any ideas?
Class A
  • Son_of_Norway's avatar
    Son_of_Norway
    Explorer
    Apr 19, 2017
    Sorry about your troubles. You could try contacting Geoffery Rosenburg at Alretta Truck Parts. He is an expert in older RV brake systems. Have you gone over your power steering system and vacuum lines?
  • azrving's avatar
    azrving
    Explorer
    Apr 19, 2017
    If the brakes were locking, you may have had no free play in the adjustment rod. Remove the brake lines from the master and get the bleeder fittings with hoses that would go in those two holes and bleed the master by it's self. Then proceed from there with connecting the lines and bleeding and keep the master full of fluid at all times.

    This type of bleeder screws into the brake line hole and the hoses go into the fluid reservoir so air isn't sucked back in. As you cycle the master cylinder you should start to feel resistance and the fluid returning to the master reservoir will be free of air. Be sure there is a little free play in the linkage when done and that the master cylinder plunger is not tight against the linkage. It has to be able to come all the way out. If the plunger is held in slightly, all of the fluid wont be able to return to the reservoir and pressure will build up in the system holding all the brakes engaged.
  • smashncreeper's avatar
    smashncreeper
    Explorer
    Apr 19, 2017
    I did bench bleed the master cylinder. I bench bled ALL of the master cylinders before putting them on. Do you think i need to adjust thhe hydraulic booster maybe? The first 5 master cylinders made the brakes lock up. This last one is the only one that didnt but now their dropping to the floor. Cant get any pedal at all. Like i said we bled them and bled them. Multiple times.
  • azrving's avatar
    azrving
    Explorer
    Apr 19, 2017
    I dont think I can offer much more right now. Are you sure it hasn't now developed a line leak or caliper leak? I think you know enough to have covered that but just asking. If I was near you I'd be helping you. :)

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