2019 Coachman Leprechaun 319mb
Can someone tell me where to find the fresh water tank drain valve? We bought this new early summer then hubby had health problems. Never got the chance to use. I need to drain the water in fresh wate...
Forum Discussion
Those valves you turned under the bed are near your water heater and might need to be repositioned in order for you to use your unit again. You need to allow water flow into the water heater and back out to the lines in order to have hot running water.
Just google a pic of the diagram to show you the operating positions of those valves. They are the 'winterizing by-pass valves'.
The valve handle (T) is in line with the water line to allow flow, that's the open position.
If you did not have that panel inside the storage compartment, then look in the vicinity below the freshwater tank or below the 'water fill port' with the screw off cap to fill the water tank, that's a common area to find the drain lines.
Many new units today drain the water tank as well as the cold low point drain, therefore it might take a few minutes to drain , depending how much water is in the tank.
Drain lines in my unit are installed beyond the water pump and are visible when you look under the MH because they have to drain onto the ground.
The cold line looks like an open end line because the on/off valve is inside the rv. The HOT line has a twist off cap at its end, that's visible from under the rv.
(Look for two lines hanging down, one is open ended, one has the twist off cap)
In order to see your drain valve, sometimes you have to remove a panel inside the rv under the fridge or stove. Look for a wood panel with a few screws , remove them and the panel to take a peek what's behind it.
When you park it during storage, your shed will need to be heated if night time temps fall below 32F . You need to protect the water pump, toilet, H/C lines and those plastic valves on the faucets (kitchen, bathroom sink and shower, outside shower too) The water heater needs to be drained as well.
You could use an air compressor to push air thru your entire system which would offer good protection to clear the water out of the lines and system. You can then add non toxic rv antifreeze thru the system for better protection because there would be only a little residual water remaining to NOT dilute the rv antifreeze, offering your system full protection. You would need an inexpensive (Walmart item) air valve stem that screws onto your city water hookup port.
If you need more help to winterize, we can run you through the process.
Hope your hubby feels better, that's the most important part.
Just google a pic of the diagram to show you the operating positions of those valves. They are the 'winterizing by-pass valves'.
The valve handle (T) is in line with the water line to allow flow, that's the open position.
If you did not have that panel inside the storage compartment, then look in the vicinity below the freshwater tank or below the 'water fill port' with the screw off cap to fill the water tank, that's a common area to find the drain lines.
Many new units today drain the water tank as well as the cold low point drain, therefore it might take a few minutes to drain , depending how much water is in the tank.
Drain lines in my unit are installed beyond the water pump and are visible when you look under the MH because they have to drain onto the ground.
The cold line looks like an open end line because the on/off valve is inside the rv. The HOT line has a twist off cap at its end, that's visible from under the rv.
(Look for two lines hanging down, one is open ended, one has the twist off cap)
In order to see your drain valve, sometimes you have to remove a panel inside the rv under the fridge or stove. Look for a wood panel with a few screws , remove them and the panel to take a peek what's behind it.
When you park it during storage, your shed will need to be heated if night time temps fall below 32F . You need to protect the water pump, toilet, H/C lines and those plastic valves on the faucets (kitchen, bathroom sink and shower, outside shower too) The water heater needs to be drained as well.
You could use an air compressor to push air thru your entire system which would offer good protection to clear the water out of the lines and system. You can then add non toxic rv antifreeze thru the system for better protection because there would be only a little residual water remaining to NOT dilute the rv antifreeze, offering your system full protection. You would need an inexpensive (Walmart item) air valve stem that screws onto your city water hookup port.
If you need more help to winterize, we can run you through the process.
Hope your hubby feels better, that's the most important part.
