24 feet versus 26' dilemma, have to decide fast

[mountaintravele]

Hello! I'm a complete newbie to RVs.
I'm buying a motorhome to travel the country for a year or two.
I have no pets.
(I had extensively traveled America and camped all over for 20 years without an RV and I love tent camping)

I found that my favorite places (in National Forests and parks) allow 24 feet max motorhome max.
Sometimes even the road to the place has this length limit
(windy mountain roads).
Upon viewing 24' units I feel tehre's too little space to fulltime in for 1-2 years. I guess I feel the fatigue from my extensive tent camping and all the tiny houses I stayed in, as I've been a full time traveler for quite a while
26' seems like a very good compromise size-wise (ideally I'd want a 31 but this won't get me into placdes)
Gas mileage on those seems to be the same, prices too.
The problem is the size limits.

Do you think I can get away with 26' in 24' spaces?
I see some indications people had been doing it but not sure if it's for real.

[Grit_dog]

This thread is like a bad car wreck (figuratively, so far). You know it’s not good. But can’t look away….

[bobndot]

mountaintraveler wrote:

bobndot wrote:
Also the sideview. Its fine when going straight. In a class c the cab portion is narrower than the coach portion. You have take intersections at more of a right angle otherwise the coach will block your side vision.

To think of it, I have some experience driving big pickups I rented from Home Depot, that was easy. I hope class C isn't terribly hard as I'd be driving off the lot with my sedan car in tow, towing for the first time too (need to tow car quite a long distance where I'll put it in storage)

How are you planning to tow it ?
Renting a dolly or car hauler ?
I think that would be less expensive.
Setting up a dingy to tow is expensive , i spent $3k to set up my car.

I have to ask you if other options are open for you because a motorhome will be limited to where you can go. You can get hung-up if you try to go into places that too tight or too rough. Those places can experience less sunlight to dry out the ground. Damp ground or mud will be your enemy and cell service for help might be a problem.

Too bad you didn't keep the pickup. Is that an option for you ?
Doing your type camping into rough places, a truck camper would offer you ground clearance, 4WD and no low rear overhang.

Have you considered modifying a van ? The Ram and Transit offer taller roofs so you can stand inside. There are many YouTube's on basic insulation and wall coverings.

Driving a motorhome requires using the sideview convex mirrors. Will that be a problem for your vision ?
You also will find it easier to tilt down the sideview mirror when backing into tight spots, especially with heavy bush cover, stumps and rocks. Its a big plus to be able to see your rear bumper and rear wheels. Its easier to judge your distance. Most class c’s don't have power mirrors. Tilting down the drivers is usually enough for me to see. Power side-views would nice .

[mountaintravele]

I might end up with a 26'. Seems like 26' is very close to 24' except few campsites are going to be unavailable but I'm hearing about people fitting in RVs 9 feet over limit into places, this is encouraging.

The reason I might end up with a 26', even though I prefer 24' now, is because there're very few options with low mileage in older RVs I can afford, and they're popular, plus some dealers and consignors are clearly very shady operations, so I'm thinking that the most trustworthy seller and price being closer to NADA valuation should determine the outcome.

[mountaintravele]

pnichols wrote:
For what it's worth, the picture below shows the non-slide floor plan of our 24 ft. Class C that's built on a Ford chassis that provides decent ground clearance ... along with 55 gallons of fuel, a 4000 watt built-in generator, and an 18 gallon propane tank.

It's wheel wells are not under the dinette, they're under the refrigerator area and galley area. All of the areas under the dinette benches are available for storage, so the dinette table and two benches can be completely removed to make room for one or two full recliners. Installing only one recliner in that area would make room for a nice table right beside it to eat on, hold a laptop, hold books, etc., when camped. Also note the stock rotating and sliding lounge chair opposite the dinette area.

One can sleep in the rear corner bed, and use all of the large overhead cab area to provide a huge amount of storage. Seven(7) outside storage areas provide additional storage.

That is exactly the layout I want to avoid in a 24', because dinette would have to be removed (versus situations where sofa/chair have to be removed) to make space and dinettes are harder to remove and reinstall, seems like. I'd rather not have queen bed in 24' since it takes so much space but given the dearth of available to me options I won't have much choice as to the layout.

[mountaintravele]

toedtoes wrote:

mountaintraveler wrote:

I have bad eyes.
Also, my eyeglasses' plastic frames limit my field of vision. No one to help parking. I get very tired on long drives, become no good at parking from fatique. Had adventures with my Camry's bumper meeting pine trees and boulders, definitely and a 20' campsite can be hard to back even a Camry into when you're tired. Can't imagine what happens with long vehicle. Shorter RV is definitely safer bet in terms of not hitting things and not scraping.

Remember that with ANY motorhome, your visibility is much more limited than in a car. If you already have difficulty backing in to spaces in your camry, you're going to be miserable with the motorhome.

You can't see out the back of the motorhome. The only way to see behind the MH is with a backup camera and that's going to be a small view. In addition, it's not just what's behind you, it is what's above you. Tree branches hanging over the site in particular.

Trying to back in and park a motorhome, especially by yourself, when you are tired is not fun. Doing so with bad vision, etc, - well don't camp near me. 😉

In addition, the body of the motorhome is not as sturdy as the body of a car. That slight dent you got in the camry when you backed into a boulder is going to do a lot nore damage to the motorhome.

Well I have to buy a motorhome and learn to park it.
That's what I'm going to do.

Overhanging branches never been a problem in types of sites I usually end up, rather, lack of shade is usually a problem.

[mountaintravele]

bobndot wrote:
Also the sideview. Its fine when going straight. In a class c the cab portion is narrower than the coach portion. You have take intersections at more of a right angle otherwise the coach will block your side vision.

To think of it, I have some experience driving big pickups I rented from Home Depot, that was easy. I hope class C isn't terribly hard as I'd be driving off the lot with my sedan car in tow, towing for the first time too (need to tow car quite a long distance where I'll put it in storage)

[mountaintravele]

klutchdust wrote:
before you purchase whatever unit you decide on, be sure and have it inspected by someone who has experience with RV'S. One of the most important inspections needs to be for water damage, especially around the front above cab area. Appliances and systems, air conditioner, heater need to be checked. How about the service/maintenance on the chassis. Money well spent before you purchase.
There hasn't been one trip made where I haven't had something require attention. I keep a note pad and write down what to take care of before the next trip. Appliances are easy to replace and the builders use
the same brands. I have used mobile mechanics when out and about and you can get a quicker response than a brick and mortar repair shop. If you get a Ford V-10 buy a few spare ignition coils and carry them with you.
Best of luck in your adventure, see you in the Sierras!

Yes, but some dealers offer their own inspection. I thought of just going with dealer's inspection results if it's offered - other dealers do not offer inspections and do more of a consignment thing, withotu pre-checking the unit, this concerns me as you pay $$$ for inspections on a wild card and may be out of inspection money and no RV and I need to buy a motorhome and hit the road asap.
Mobile mechanics is a very good idea, I didn't even know they existed!

[mountaintravele]

Matt_Colie wrote:
Mountaintraveler,

You have lots of good answers here and I (for one) that you seem to be leaning toward the 24. We travel in an aged 23 and revel in the fact that we can get just about any place a passcar can go. The limit for us is the required 9' clearance. As for space, it is usually the two of us and two dogs in the coach. It works.

As for using the furniture from the coach, cross that idea off. Most of the furnishings require the coach for stability and support and what does not is easier to buy than it is to remove for the larger part.

When you get in it, you will have questions, so come back here and we will try to get you lined up.

Matt

Not sure what you mean.

I only need to use my small camping recliner chair and camping cot, even when in the house I don't use standard furniture. I want to remove sofa, and swiwel chair, if there's one (dinette seems to be harder to remove). I have no use for RV furniture but if I remove it, I'd store it for reinstalling later before reselling.

[mountaintravele]

Deb and Ed M wrote:

mountaintraveler wrote:


As I mentioned above, I'm thinking of gutting some useless to me furniture out and putting it in storage, to use my small folding camping furniture instead and even folding it up, as needed, to make space.

This might not be an option in a smaller RV: my Thor 22E has a "regular" dinette, and before we actually took ownership, my brain was switching the "regular" dinette to some sort of a "lounge" for more sitting comfort. Once I got the MH, I realized that the dinette benches are heavily utilized for "stuff" - one side holds my freshwater tank/drains; the other side has a drawer, and then the pump and other various boxes. Altering my dinette will be difficult at best - I solved the comfort problem by ordering an "unstuffed pouf" from Amazon - a fabric cube about 16 x 16 x 12" that I stuffed with extra blankets, and it makes a nice armrest/backrest.

I see! I thought of taking out a sofa and a swiwel chair.
Dinettes are really meant for groups of people/families, unfortunately there're little RV options for single people, where space takes preference over furniture. Ideally I'd want something gutted with only the kitchen and bathroom left, but if I completely gut the RV there's a resale question, so I have to pay for storage to store that stuff somewhere, then reinstall, etc.
I found only one without a dinette, by design but it's way overpriced/asking way over NADA value (more than 2X), I think it's a risky buy considering I need to resell in 2 years. If I was buying for life then may be it'd be less of a concern.

[Deb_and_Ed_M]

mountaintraveler wrote:


As I mentioned above, I'm thinking of gutting some useless to me furniture out and putting it in storage, to use my small folding camping furniture instead and even folding it up, as needed, to make space.

This might not be an option in a smaller RV: my Thor 22E has a "regular" dinette, and before we actually took ownership, my brain was switching the "regular" dinette to some sort of a "lounge" for more sitting comfort. Once I got the MH, I realized that the dinette benches are heavily utilized for "stuff" - one side holds my freshwater tank/drains; the other side has a drawer, and then the pump and other various boxes. Altering my dinette will be difficult at best - I solved the comfort problem by ordering an "unstuffed pouf" from Amazon - a fabric cube about 16 x 16 x 12" that I stuffed with extra blankets, and it makes a nice armrest/backrest.

[Grit_dog]

pnichols wrote:
For what it's worth, the picture below shows the non-slide floor plan of our 24 ft. Class C that's built on a Ford chassis that provides decent ground clearance ... along with 55 gallons of fuel, a 4000 watt built-in generator, and an 18 gallon propane tank.

It's wheel wells are not under the dinette, they're under the refrigerator area and galley area. All of the areas under the dinette benches are available for storage, so the dinette table and two benches can be completely removed to make room for one or two full recliners. Installing only one recliner in that area would make room for a nice table right beside it to eat on, hold a laptop, hold books, etc., when camped. Also note the stock rotating and sliding lounge chair opposite the dinette area.

One can sleep in the rear corner bed, and use all of the large overhead cab area to provide a huge amount of storage. Seven(7) outside storage areas provide additional storage.

Nice suggestions but you missed the cot and camp chair posts by the OP…

[pnichols]

For what it's worth, the picture below shows the non-slide floor plan of our 24 ft. Class C that's built on a Ford chassis that provides decent ground clearance ... along with 55 gallons of fuel, a 4000 watt built-in generator, and an 18 gallon propane tank.

It's wheel wells are not under the dinette, they're under the refrigerator area and galley area. All of the areas under the dinette benches are available for storage, so the dinette table and two benches can be completely removed to make room for one or two full recliners. Installing only one recliner in that area would make room for a nice table right beside it to eat on, hold a laptop, hold books, etc., when camped. Also note the stock rotating and sliding lounge chair opposite the dinette area.

One can sleep in the rear corner bed, and use all of the large overhead cab area to provide a huge amount of storage. Seven(7) outside storage areas provide additional storage.

[Matt_Colie]

Mountaintraveler,

You have lots of good answers here and I (for one) that you seem to be leaning toward the 24. We travel in an aged 23 and revel in the fact that we can get just about any place a passcar can go. The limit for us is the required 9' clearance. As for space, it is usually the two of us and two dogs in the coach. It works.

As for using the furniture from the coach, cross that idea off. Most of the furnishings require the coach for stability and support and what does not is easier to buy than it is to remove for the larger part.

When you get in it, you will have questions, so come back here and we will try to get you lined up.

Matt

[klutchdust]

before you purchase whatever unit you decide on, be sure and have it inspected by someone who has experience with RV'S. One of the most important inspections needs to be for water damage, especially around the front above cab area. Appliances and systems, air conditioner, heater need to be checked. How about the service/maintenance on the chassis. Money well spent before you purchase.
There hasn't been one trip made where I haven't had something require attention. I keep a note pad and write down what to take care of before the next trip. Appliances are easy to replace and the builders use
the same brands. I have used mobile mechanics when out and about and you can get a quicker response than a brick and mortar repair shop. If you get a Ford V-10 buy a few spare ignition coils and carry them with you.
Best of luck in your adventure, see you in the Sierras!

[bobndot]

Mountaintraveler wrote:
I came up with the idea of gutting the sofa and any seats if I get 24' one. I can put them in storage and later reistall them when it's time to sell the RV. I only use my camping cot and camping chair recliner in the house, don't want anything else, so RV furniture is of no use for me. If I gut some furniture I can free space. My recliner folds, might even fold the camping cot for the day if I need to freeing space.

A sleeping option :
you could use 1/2 the cabover space as storage and use the other 1/2 as your bed.

Removing rv furniture:
You’re probably not going to find total flat floor space for storage.

Under the rv bed is usually a large freshwater tank and maybe the water heater plus other rv related components.
You would need to fabricate secure storage on top of the beds raised plywood platform. You need to make sure your stored items will not crash thru the windows. They can easily break.

The same applies to the dinette area. Under the dinette are the wheel wells, maybe the furnace and other things can take up that space .

If you’re lucky, some slide-outs will offer you flat floor space when the rv furniture is removed, maybe ! Be careful fabricating in a slide-out. They are very thin walled, less than the rv sidewalls. Watch the length of your bolts, it must be clear in order to slide. Slide tolerances are tight.
By removing rv beds and dinettes , I’m not so sure you will accomplish as much of your goal for extra storage . Just something to think about.

*Remember you are driving in the same space that you are storing things. Whatever you fabricate, make sure your equipment is secured in a solid manner. If not, it becomes projectiles in the event of an accident. Bolt the framing you use through solid foundations.
Protect yourself ! That doesn’t mean to wear a helmet when driving. 🙂