tamaratrav
Dec 02, 2018Explorer
84 Toyota Dolphin
Hello all! Am back RV'ing again, now in a classic 84 Toyota Dolphin; found it with 45,000 miles, stick shift. Goes about 25 MPH in 2nd gear up the passes on the big hills!
ron.dittmer wrote:tamaratrav wrote:As mentioned by DrewE, I would almost "bet the house" that your parking brake is fine as are your main rear brakes. The rears drum brakes just need adjusting, then your parking brake will work properly with the slack in the parking brake cable removed. That's because the parking brake utilizes the main brake shoes. When your rear brake shoes are adjusted right, it all starts to work right including the parking brake. That is another benefit I forgot to mention.
My first braking issue is to have e-brake replaced. It's pretty much shot, have to pull it all the way out, and then still leave it in gear.....going to have Toyota dealer do that.
Make sure the mechanic demonstrates to you the slight drag on each rear corner pair of tires after you see him pump the brake pedal, while the rear end is still raised. He might do a few adjustment cycles and call it a day, but it sounds like 18 per side are in your future as it was with our Toyota.
Both rear corners need to have some drag or the improperly adjusted side will partially cancel out the properly adjusted side...when it comes to stopping power.
If the mechanic says you need rear brake replacement parts, I wouldn't accept that unless there is a fluid leak. Have him take you into his shop and show you why. A fine layer of rust on rear drum brake parts is normal, not a good reason unless it is serious barnacle rust on the brake shoes. Your Toyota's rear axle was installed many years after the RV was initially put into service. If the rear brakes were never adjusted properly as part of the rear axle installation (as in my case), your rear brakes are practically brand new because they have been hardly used. They had lots of motion within the drums preventing the internal assemblies from locking up from lack of use, but the brake shoes hardly made contact to the drums. Make sense?
I am almost so bold to say....tell them not to take any rear tires off the vehicle. Just have the rear brakes adjusted (not inspected) which is done with everything assembled.
About your front brakes, for the most part, just trust his judgement, but have him show you why he recommends replacing something. With the rear brakes being ineffective, along with the rig sitting around a while, he might recommend new front pads and rotors which is understandable. Make sure to mention you want him to lubricate the front brake caliper slides, and if replacing the rotors, clean the front hubs of surface rust where the rotors contact them and add a thin film of anti-seize compound before reassembly. Not just a good idea, but the mechanic will be impressed with your knowledge and will stay on his toes working on your rig.
One more thing you want your mechanic to do is to flush your brake fluid system. That can also be easily done without removing your rear tires.
When you go there, talk like you "know brakes". That will help to assure the mechanic will be detailed and complete in all his work. If he does his job right, you will be so very happy with your main brake and parking brake systems. Your rig will stop so much faster with much better control, especially when braking while taking on curvy mountain and canyon roads. And your parking brake will work perfectly with the cable-slack eliminated.