And the saga continues

[RJL]

Brought my coach to camping world for a step recall. Big mistake, I know. Anyway I've been having some electrical problems since my end of last season trip. I think I got hit with a surge. My house battery disconnect switch stopped working as well as my water level switches and outside radio.

I figured I'd ask CW to fix the battery disconnect switch. Well they did, for $600.00. Said they ran a new wire. Must be made of diamonds and gold.

Anyway, I go to start the genetrator this morning and it won't start from inside or outside the coach. The circuit breakers are all good on the genny itself. The weird thing is when I hit the genny start button inside it makes the same beeping sound the the house disconnect switch makes when power is on in the house section.

I plugged into shore power and started the genny as normal, from inside. Disconnected from shore power and it's running as it should.

I called CW and explained to them this issue and asked the service worker to talk to the mechanic who worked on my coach and he said it doesn't make sense. I asked where he ran the line for the disconnect switch and he said the house batteries.

Seems to me they wired it wrong somewhere and aren't going to make it right.

Any insite from you folks here what I can look? I'm leaving to head out camping in about an hour and can pick away at it while I'm at the campground.

Oh, and as an added bonus when I picked up my coach 2 days ago they ran into something with my driver side mirror and cracked the housing and scraped all the paint off, didn't secure the hood and had my ignition in the "on" position.

What an awful service department.

Sorry, rant over.

Thank you for any help.

Bob

[JRscooby]

Grit dog wrote:
... or 3x as many components as you actually need replaced for a brake job.

I know nothing about the shop you mention, but many shops have for years got carried away with replacing parts on brake jobs. Then brother's shop was inspected for insurance. He only works on pre-55 Chevys, not what is likely to get a lot of miles. The inspector found a cabinet of parts to rebuild wheel cylinders. Brother had to sign, parts would be sold "carry-out only". Work in shop required WC be replaced by new or factory rebuilt. That started discussion (small sample. 1 worked at car dealer, 1 own independent auto repair, 1 own MC dealership) ALL stated their insurance required any brake work goes way beyond what is needed. For example, Bros shop, car need a steel brake line? Must replace all steel lines

[Yankee_Clipper]

Additional thought: take a look at your automatic transfer switch. You may have a burnt lead.

[atsrmf]

This thread gives reason as to why I would never buy an RV or trailer if I didn't know how to troubleshoot electrical problems. Every unit will have issues, and it can be seriously expensive. More than I could ever afford.

[Grit_dog]

But the genny should be powered from and charge the house battery(s).
Op mentions nothing about the house functions being dead nor checking the house batt charge level.
Always tough to diagnose something you’re not well read at, but start with the basics.
Does the disconnect actually turn off the house batts?
Are the house batts charged?
What else does or doesn’t work right?
Those are the easy things.
But we don’t know if the OP still has a problem since he was a one n done….so no point in replying to him.

[JoeH]

Perhaps the bat was low due to the ignition sw being left on.... see what happens after you have your drive to the campsite.

[wa8yxm]

RJL wrote:
Brought my coach to camping world for a step recall. Big mistake, I know. Anyway I've been having some electrical problems since my end of last season trip. I think I got hit with a surge. My house battery disconnect switch stopped working as well as my water level switches and outside radio.

Most all the things you cite are Surge proof or as close as it gets to surge proof. especially on modern (this century) RV's and Trailers.

WHY: They all work on 12 volts. and the converter (Which is not surge proof) will go POOF if there is a surge before it fried the 12 volt stuff. Now if the battery is dead.
The battery disconnect won't work (More on that in a bit)
lights won't work
Radio Fridge. Water heater. Water pump All need 12 volt.


Now... Battery disconnect.. This is specific to the Intelletec Battery Control but may apply to others.

Dirty switch prevented Solenoid from going CLUNK when I hit USE.. De-powered switch (I did it the hard way) (Easy way is to pull all 5 amp fuses from BCC fuse box and mark where they go so you can put 'em back.. Just one is needed but easier to pull 'em all )

Now operate the switch like 100 times USE/STORE/USE/Store

Replace fuse. try if it CLUNKS and Connects time to make a decision

Buy a super lotto ticket cause when you hot you hot.
Don't buy the ticket cause you used up your ration of LUCK for this month.

[4x4van]

ScottG wrote:
I would hire a small independent repair facility or mobile tech - after checking their reviews carefully.

This /\

Then, take CW to small claims court for whatever it costs to fix what the screwed up, including the damaged mirror.

[ScottG]

I would hire a small independent repair facility or mobile tech - after checking their reviews carefully.

[Grit_dog]

It’s not that you couldn’t get ripped off or overcharged elsewhere as well, but moreso that CW is a known, I’d dare say almost across the board, repeat offender of this.
Just like Les Schwabs….but I still see cars lined up outside, with the owners out stretching, bending over, gettin lubed up for what’s about to come their way. Whether it’s their severely overpriced new house brand of tires, or 3x as many components as you actually need replaced for a brake job.
At least LS is generally competent in the work they’re over charging for, so they have some redeeming quality unlike CW.