Automatic or manual leveling kits

Don’t know about best. Rand but.... we have automatic with option of manual leveling. Automatic is nice if you are already close to level. We will use manual mode most of the time. Many times we will have to settle for “close enough”. Either way they are a must.

My leveling kit consists of a spirit level and a bunch of various lengths of PT 2x10 with angles cut on the ends. I'd classify it as manual. :B For me, it has worked out nicely and isn't costly to get or maintain.

If you're talking permanently mounted power (probably hydraulic) jacks, I think the most important feature to get is "direct acting" as opposed to "kick down."

We've had two Class C's we bought used, and both had HWK kick down jacks. The biggest problem, and we had it repeatedly, was one or more jacks would extend before it kicked to vertical.

The first Class C had an individual control lever for each jack. Manufacturers went away from that setup, because it's too easy to deploy jacks in a way that racks the frame and coach body. Being aware of that, I used them carefully and it really helped me to work with a jack that wouldn't "kick."

The C we have now, has a panel with lights to tell which side or end is low. You push a button that always deploys two jacks. Both Fronts, Both Rears, Left Front and Left Rear to make Left Side, Right Front and Right Rear to make up Right side. That setup would be OK, IF the Jacks would always "kick" to vertical. Since ours don't, it's a PITA.

Jacks can be nice, but I usually use Drew's system with Carpenter's Level and Two-By lumber.

In our travels primarily to national parks and other public lands, the parking pad in the camp sites are generally so badly out of level that auto-levelers or blocks will never be enough. We most often settle for close-enough using Lynx leveler interlocking blocks which can raise a corner of the RV higher than hydraulic levelers are able on a class C.

I've seen large class As where the jacks have raised the front tires up off the ground, but I understand is a no-go on class Cs.....admittedly I don't know much about such things, only what I have gathered on forums. Maybe there are better/stronger brand hydraulic levelers with more travel available.

Keep in-mind that hydraulic levelers have some serious weight to them. If your rig (assumed a Sprinter) is near capacity already, they may over-load it.

As Ron noted above auto levelers add considerable weight that you may or may not have to spare. Secondly, they are expensive and about as problematic as slides and retracting steps.

In a 24' coach using the yellow leggo blocks works just fine, been doing it for 4.5 years and still on the original set of blocks. Cheap and easy works for me. Also, take a walk around your CG or RV Park and count how many folks with auto levelers have them sitting on blocks... :S

I agree with both j-d and ron, the HWH hydraulics straight down with the system that raises both jacks on the four sides. But they are heavy.

I agree with Desert Captain but question the problematic part. I think all three things are great features and very durable. Maintenance is a key part of keeping them working well.

I believe at least HWH warns about lifting the RV so high that one or more wheels are off the ground. On just a very few occasions did I have to readjust for being so off level that I had a wheel off the ground. I use a shovel, blocks or move to a different site to keep all wheels on the ground.

I'm almost 80 and being on the road is for me, the most fun you can have with your clothes on, but, when we replaced our 26 year old Bounder, levelers were #ONE on my must have list. Replacement of both knees, one hip and stenosis of the lumbar region of the back make those ramps hard to move and getting down to place those inside rear ramps was murder.

If we were to get a small C or a B, I would buy the Lynx Blocks and make a system that would allow me to position the blocks without getting down on my knees.

All great advice. Our 28QB didn't have levelers. I asked the dealer to install them before we picked it up... his response "use it for a few months and then ask me". We did and, we haven't asked him again! We use commercial camp grounds and have discovered that most are level and those that aren't could easily be "fixed" using a yellow plastic ramp. (can't think of the brand!)

Good luck,
Gary

as noted by some the 'levelers' really are hit and miss IMO. I have some on the Aspect and they do not seem to level, they seem to raise one end and then thats it. I use them manually. Also carry 2x10 for the tires to sit on or to put down for the pads since most places are on dirt and they can sink in. My BIL (class A 35 ft) also used plywood pads for his set up under the jacks. Guy I know has a 24ft thor and he was told NOT to install jacks for whatever reason. If its stability you want after set up I told him to get some of the triangular trailer levelers to take rock and roll out. Cheaper and simple to use.

Ours is slightly shorter than yours and we seldom need to use levelers. When we do I use 2x8's to drive up on. I have a N/S level by the drivers left door and an E/W level mounted on the dash. That way I can maneuver the vehicle to a level spot while sitting in the seat.
BTW, North is 12 O'clock/straight ahead/front of vehicle.
Self levelers are a waste of money on a short RV IMO.
Marvin

Our 1990 Winnebago Warrior had HWH flip-down jacks installed by the original owner shortly after he bought the rig.

Ours have 4 independent levers for each jack. Never thought about the frame wracking - good point to consider!

We have never had any problems with our jacks deploying or retracting, and the system is nearly 30 years old.

Jacks are good for leveling, but what I find them more important for is stability. Without the jacks, every time someone rolls over in bed the entire RV rocks and floats on the suspension, shaking everyone else in their beds.

With jacks, the house becomes rock solid.

Steve