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Battery/Alternator problem

Geocritter
Explorer
Explorer
This has to do with my Toad, a 2005 4 cyl Dodge Caravan, sorry it’s not about my RV but I’ve found some very sharp people on this board and I’m hoping for a definitive answer.

The other day I drove to Bainbridge Island/Seattle Ferry terminal and parked my Caravan, planning to walk on to the ferry. Just before I got to the lot my “check battery” light came on (my Caravan has no alternator gauges). I went ahead and left it for about six hours, came back started it up and drove it back 75 miles to Port Angeles. The check battery light came back on within blocks of starting out and stayed on the entire way, but I made it back okay.

After arriving in Port Angeles I checked the battery with an analog multimeter, both with the engine running and turned off. The voltage was higher while the engine was running indicating the alternator was working.

The next day I put a 10amp battery charger on it for 3 hours and then drove it to O’Reilly Auto Parts the "check battery" light never came on. At O’Reilly they checked it with some testing device of theirs and said that it appeared the alternator was working but the battery appeared to be going bad.

I drove home and thoroughly cleaned off the top of the battery as well as the battery posts going so far as to soak the grime encrusted battery clamps in a mixture of water and baking soda. My thought was the battery was losing power via a conductive film of battery crud on top of the battery.

Since I did all that cleaning the Caravans ran fine all week/300 miles, the "check battery" light hasn't come on, and all the cells test between 1275 and 1300 (don’t know the units) in the “Good” range on my 30 year old glass Sears hydrometer. I also checked acid levels and it was above the lead grids on all the cells. The cell closest to the + post was slightly lower than the rest, but still well above the lead grids.

This morning when I tried starting it all that happened was the starter solenoid rattled. I put a 10 amp charger on it for 3 hours and it started just fine.

When I tested it with my multimeter the voltage appeared to be higher than what it had been not running, indicating to me that the alternator was working.

There is one other thing though, my gas gauge and speedometer both pegged, the gas gauge to full and the speedometer to 120 mph, then they both settled back down to normal, it was as if the on-board computer was rebooting itself.

However, all through these problems I have gotten no “check engine” messages on the dash.

I’m planning on towing the Caravan back to Texas behind my RV in about 10 days and I’d like to resolve this issue or at least know what the problem is. The battery’s about 5 years old and the alternator’s got 162K on it, based on those two facts alone either could be going bad. In a perfect world I’d just replace both, but at this time I’m dreadfully short of money and to do so would cost me about $270.

Anyone have any ideas? Did I miss anything in my longwinded description of events?

Again, sorry this as a non-class A RV problem, but it is a toad problem.
11 REPLIES 11

imgoin4it
Explorer
Explorer
Go back to him and ask how many he wants. Tell him they are cheaper if he buys 100 or more and that you will send them as soon as you receive his down payment.
Howard,Connie,& Bella,
One spoiled schnauzer
2007 Newmar KSDP
4dr Jeep Wrangler

Geocritter
Explorer
Explorer
Yesterday, I posted this query on the board here and used the word multimeter, not a word I commonly use. Today I’ve gotten two requests via my personal email by a person, apparently from Romania (though he says he’s from Indiana), wanting to purchase multimeters from me. A great world we live in these days. Isn’t the internet fun?

The part that's bothersome is that my personal email is not posted here, he had to hack the forum to obtain it.

Geocritter
Explorer
Explorer
96Bounder, interesting about the PCM, I googled PCM and yes indeed, it could be a PCM going bad. However, it could also be an alternator going bad, maybe both. Thankfully, I have my trusty KLR250 motorcycle to get around on for the next 10 days before I take off in the Behemoth for TX with my ailing Caravan hooked to a tow dolly. I have a trusted electronics rebuild shop in San Marcos TX I can go to.

Another weird thing happened, but only one time, this was back when my troubles first began. I drove a few miles stopped for a red light and when I started out it wouldn’t shift into high but stayed in the next lower gear. I pulled off the road and started out again from a stop and it’s shifted just fine ever since.

The thing is this old Caravan, other than having a premature timing belt failure, has been literally trouble free for 162K miles.
Steve

crasster
Explorer II
Explorer II
If there are no buldges on the battery, I'd invest in a battery minder desulphation charger. Your battery sounds sulphated to me. Takes a charge and is weak/lathargic....
4 whopping cylinders on Toyota RV's. Talk about great getting good MPG. Also I have a very light foot on the pedal. I followed some MPG advice on Livingpress.com and I now get 22 MPG! Not bad for a home on wheels.

2Bargos
Explorer
Explorer
Have had several customers in my shop with same complaint, its a typical sign of an alternator going bad. Also on dodge/Chrysler charging systems the Voltage regulator is NOT in the alternator but is in the powertrain control module ( PCM ) .

At this point a rebuild shop could save you some money repairing you unit versus the price of one at a auto parts.
2006 F-250
2008 Cherokee 28A+
2003 Harley Ultra
A wife that enjoys my hobbies as much as I do.
A Day Hemmed in prayer seldom comes unraveled

2bzy2c
Explorer II
Explorer II
Not sure how you applied the baking soda or how much, but that in itself
will kill the battery, if it gets into the battery through the vents. Baking Soda + Battery acid = dead battery.

On an F-53 chassis, when you disconnect the battery, then re-connect, the system does do a reboot of sorts, like you witnessed.
My advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.

DSDP_Don
Explorer
Explorer
Batteries do get old and slowly die. You didn't indicate the age of the battery. The things that are occurring are indicative of a battery dying or shorting out.

When you check the alternator voltage, just being higher than the battery is not the correct indicator of a good alternator. It needs to be putting out somewhere between 14.8-15.3 volts.
Don & Mary
2019 Newmar Dutch Star 4018 - All Electric
2019 Ford Raptor Crew Cab

imgoin4it
Explorer
Explorer
Sounds to me as well that your battery is bad or on I it's way out. I would replace it and bet all works fine. A five year old battery is at or near the end of it's life so on the off chance it does not change anything font think you lost anything.
Howard,Connie,& Bella,
One spoiled schnauzer
2007 Newmar KSDP
4dr Jeep Wrangler

Mandalay_Parr
Explorer
Explorer
Sounds like your battery is bad.
Jerry Parr
Full-time
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jrparr@att.net
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rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
If you have a ScanGauge that hooks in to your OBD II connector, you can tell exactly what your voltage is with the vehicle running. With a battery that needs charging, the charging voltage can be over 14 volts.
If the voltage is staying around 12 volts or so, then your charging system needs work. Most alternators now include the voltage regulator as part of the alternator assembly.

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
Since they said the battery was going bad, why not just replace it?
Also, how much higher was the voltage when the eng was running?

If you have a battery that's shorting internally you may end up killing the alt.