KCFDCapt wrote:
Clean the battery terminals. Then test the batteries.
Test batteries while disconnected for terminal cleaning.
From sounds you are operating the disconnect system Though different RVs are wired differently I will tell you about mine
DASH radio is a "Chassis" item. runs off the ignition switch just like a car.. and the chassis battery..
HOUSE radio is a Residential job (120 volt)
Generator is a "House system" starts off the house batteries
E-Start/Boost works both ways.
Now my NON-START story...
THis happened 4 times. 4th time was different first 3. First time was about 1 year from delivery.
Turned key, dash lit up. Turned all the way to start and NOTHING.
Emergency start worked.
Crawled under where chassis battery hides (Behind Right Front Tire) with wrenches and Harbor Freight dual meter carbon pile 500 amp load tester.. Disconnected battery terminal lead.. hooked up tester. PASSED no problem
Cleaned terminal and reconnected.. VAROOM
Turns out when they built this beast they used common crimp on steel ring terminals for the positive lead (They used the PROPER connector on the negative side.
4th Time E-Start did not work, had to add a jumper from house to chassis.. This time the battery FAILED
I replaced the battery
I also replaced the connection to the battery with a new battery connector with a short pigtail. the copper wires connect to the other end of the pigtail and then got very well sealed.. NO PROBLEMS SINCE (5 years).
OF course I've occasionally forgotten and left lights on and my Converter "Failed" just yesterday (It is a PLUG IN model.. care to guess what was wrong? Outlet....... Plug (not outlet/plug like it should be). Did not take long to fix
But I don't count those.