Effy wrote:old guy wrote:
Or you can pay a guy to detail it for you.
What would that cost for a 30' MH?
Much of the cost is determined by where you live or, if you're at an RV park or not. In So CAL, I paid $10.00 per ft. for a wash and machine waxing/buffing and, that also included a brush wash of the rubber roof and detail of the stainless wheel covers. So, that was $360.00 total for our 36' Bounder 34V.
Then, while at Emerald RV Resort in Palm Desert, I paid $60.00 for a complete wash only. But, many friends who were camped there with us, paid around $120.00 for the complete wash, wax and detail for coaches upwards of 36'.
Over here in Lake Havasu City, I get our 2004 36' full body painted Itasca Horizon washed for $36.00 and, I usually add the truck in there while they're at the house for a grand total of, $59.00.
I've heard some of Florida's areas can get ridiculously low in cost too but, no experience there.
Scott
Effy wrote:
I have never officially waxed my MH. I use turtle wash and wax, but have never technically used a real wax. I was thinking of doing it this year before winter. However I shudder at all that manual polishing/wax removal. I really didn't want to spend money on an electric car buffing wheel. I have a Skil angle grinder but it's one speed. I was going to shop for a buffing wheel attachment for it. Is it a good idea to try and buff with this? I have to imagine the RPM's are about 10k where a standard buffer is about 10% of that (1k). My initial guess is that I might screw up the gel coat with a tool that spins that fast but thought I'd throw it out to the crowd for you guys to weigh in.
Effy,
Don't even come close to your coach with an angle grinder, even if you can find a wool or any other pad for it. If you even sneeze, you'll grind right through the paint coatings on it, in a micro-second.
Partner, if you've got a nice coach, and want it to remain nice, and, want to do it yourself, then do yourself a favor and GET THE PROPER EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES! This is not to chastise you, just a reminder that by using the wrong equipment, damage can be done that, not only has to be repaired but, can be costly too and, it could have been prevented.
There's been lots of discussion on the maintenance care of the outer surface of these coaches on here. There's lots of opinions. Some, like myself, will hand wash, including the top, dry it, then hand wax it, INCLUDING THE TOP and, will polish the wheels etc.
Some, will pay to have all or, some of that done. While others, have NEVER washed or waxed their rigs and, never will. It's all a matter of your version of "Pride" and, what works for you.
The pros use a variety of tools and materials for detailing coaches. But, they DO NOT USE ANGLE GRINDERS. The primary "machine" type buffer is basically a "Random-Orbital" sander/polisher. They're not cheap for a good one. I paid around $120.00 for my Porter Cable one. I can do my whole, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended cab in 45 minutes, top to bottom, front to back and that's including using the machine to apply the wax and, then changing pads and removing it.The coach will take quite a bit longer 'cause I've got to move the ladder etc., a lot more.
They also use what's called a Sander/Polisher. The maximum RPMs on those hovers around 2200-2400 but, many of them are variable speed and are used at or around 1400-1700 rpms. They are primarily used for rough or, oxidized painted surfaces and, will also use a "compound" of some sort and grit degree too.
Anyways, use the angle grinder for just that, GRINDING on metal etc. But, if you want to speed up the process of applying wax and removing it, then the only real way is to procure the Random-Orbital polisher/sander and equip it with the proper bonnets/pads. It's serious easier and fast that way. Good luck.
Scott
