dstock50 wrote:
Why not just connect the positive house battery to the positive engine battery through a fuse in case a battery goes bad so the house charger won't boil the other dry, or use a standard simple diode/HexfET battery isolator.
A fuse would not keep a bad battery from taking down a good one (the charger would keep "feeding" the total bank which would overcharge the good batteries in an attempt to bring a bad one up.
A diode-based battery isolator normally looses about .7 VDC across the diode. That would not give you enough voltage to keep the second bank charged.
Totally agree, a "modern, non-diode based" isolator would work.
Or go with a commercially available combiner such as the Xantrex Echo charger or small-output stand alone smart charger for the chassis batteries.