I am going boon docking in either South Dakota or Kansas pheasant hunting for the next two to three weeks in my coachman class B.Temps will range from low 30s to high 20's at night to 40-60's in the daytime.It doesn't have a inside shower and thus I will not really need to use the water heater. I will however be using the cold water supply for watering my dogs washing my hands and taking "navy baths" LOL.I purchased a Camco water heater bypass kit but after looking over everything I am reluctant to tamper with my tank connections with only a couple days left prior to leaving for my trip. There's very little room to work with and I don't want to be fighting with this project until I get back.So here's my question.... can I just stuff some fiberglass insulation between the external water heater surface and the external door and not worry about the tank freezing?I heat my camper with a wave 3 heater so the inside will be well above freezing at night.Opinions welcomethanksBob

If it only gets down to the mid 20's at night and upper 30 to low 40's during the day, you won't have any problems.It's when it gets down to the mid to low 20's and stays there you get the problems.We've had our ERA in mid 20's overnight before, with no issues at all. The water pump was a little sluggish when it first started, but that's about it

If you stuff it with insulation be sure to disable the igniter so you don't accidentally try to light it. Just pull a wire off.Good luck with the hunting.Wayne, 05 PW Excel

I'd see about styrofoam insulation over fiberglass if possible, perhaps some Reflectix on the inside.If the water heater has a vent or access from the inside, I'd see if that can be opened. That way, if the cab compartment is above freezing, the water heater should be as well, and one can always buy a wireless thermometer to mount between the tank and the outside panel to ensure that is the case.I'd also second to pull the fuse or disable the igniter as well. Better safe than sorry.

Why not just turn it on (if propane) and enjoy hot water for your hand washing and navy baths?

Bypass it so no water goes in WH tank (and drain it)ORUse it like it was designed to be used.........making hot water.The hot water won't freeze and you won't go burrrrrrrr when washing your face and privates :BSave some tail feathers......stuff an empty shotgun shell full of them.Now you have your own colorful lawn dart :C

Class B water heater question | Good Sam Community

bobman
Explorer
Nov 10, 2013
mumkin your correct

I've been hunting the prairie in ND for the last 25 years and one day you're in a t shirt and the next day it will be freezeing the balls off a brass monkey

thanks for the warning though if I cant keep the camper warm I will be heading home. The drought and ethanol production corn has pretty much decimated the pheasant population anyway
mumkin
Explorer
Nov 09, 2013
As someone who grew up in the Dakotas, you most certainly can't count on the temps staying in the mid-20s to 30s. When I passed through that area a few weeks back, the weather guessers insisted that the low was going to be 30... but when I arrived at the RV Park at 6:30 in the evening... right at the SD line, it was already 29... and it got down to 20. I did lose my water, but luckily the hoses did burst.

A cold front at this time of year can sneak in and keep the temps from getting even up to 30 for days on end... and you'd be in trouble. Personally I would winterize the rig and use jugs of water for everything... and have the pink stuff for toilet flushing if it gets really cold.

Kansas "might" be warmer...
bobman
Explorer
Nov 09, 2013
I'll be boon docking for a few (3) weeks and use a wave 3 and a couple bird dogs under the covers to stay warm. I may try and find a campground with a shower once a week.

My range is propane so only it and the wave three will be using the propane between my dog trailer tank and my rig I'll have 40 gallons of water.

I plan to heat the water tank section of the dog trailer at night with a coleman single mantel propane lantern while the dogs are in the camper with me of course.

I left yesterday to head out and my new from autozone alternator failed so I had to return home and get that straitened out before I leave.

Auto zone gave me a full refund and a new battery. I bought a alternator from Oriellys and took it to a local alternator repair shop and had them open it inspect it and test it so hopefully I will be ok.

Autozone has always treated me well but if you read the reviews on rebuilt alternators apparently the quality is very hit and miss.
Fastpaddler
Explorer
Nov 04, 2013
Chirpnchicks is about right. I find the hotwater heater uses very little propane and the biggest use is for our 16000btu furnace,if you have to use it. Cooking with propane shouldnt be a problem either. You wont be cooking outside presumably. We have Roots outdoor thermal sleeping bags which keep everything except your nose warm at night. I dont know how cold your rig gets. Our PW has insulation but no dual pane windows which defeats the purpose. Best wishes for your trip,
AL
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Nov 03, 2013
Horizon170 wrote:
candlback wrote:
mlts22: I donno the type of connections. An RV repair place in Eureka, CA put them in. There is no leak until the water heater is at max temperature and the pressure is so much that they leak a bit.
Now I keep an eye on it and turn the burner off when I think it is max. We only use the heater for onboard showers. Not the best, but it works for me.

Your water heater should have a sensor/adjustable thermostat you could turn down. I'm not familiar with all brands though.

Pilot light type...yes
Electronic light.......usually a pre-set t-stat
Atwood.....normal t-stat 140*F ECO t-stat 180*F
Suburban....normal t-stat 130*F ECO t-stat 170*F

Some lower preset normal t-stats 120*F and Atwood has an adjustable t-stat (110*-150*F) to replace normal t-stat

OP......Furnace is biggest propane hog
Just heat water when you want hot water..........takes about 20-30 mins on propane............little longer with really cold inlet water.
Horizon170
Explorer
Nov 03, 2013
candlback wrote:
mlts22: I donno the type of connections. An RV repair place in Eureka, CA put them in. There is no leak until the water heater is at max temperature and the pressure is so much that they leak a bit.
Now I keep an eye on it and turn the burner off when I think it is max. We only use the heater for onboard showers. Not the best, but it works for me.

Your water heater should have a sensor/adjustable thermostat you could turn down. I'm not familiar with all brands though.
candlback
Explorer
Nov 03, 2013
mlts22: I donno the type of connections. An RV repair place in Eureka, CA put them in. There is no leak until the water heater is at max temperature and the pressure is so much that they leak a bit.
Now I keep an eye on it and turn the burner off when I think it is max. We only use the heater for onboard showers. Not the best, but it works for me.
mlts22
Explorer
Nov 02, 2013
candlback wrote:
I had a problem installing a hot water bypass. When the water temp goes up the hose connedtions have to be really GOOD or the pressure will cause them to leak.

What type of connections? I've seen some "sharkbite" PEX connections which are dependent on a single O-ring to keep them from leaking (and that ring will abrade), and I've seen other reusable fittings (like from Flair-It) which expand the PEX enough to maintain a decently leak-free connection and maintain active pressure on all sides of the pipe.
hotbyte
Explorer
Nov 02, 2013
You could turn it off once day temps are above freezing to conserve propane.
candlback
Explorer
Nov 01, 2013
I had a problem installing a hot water bypass. When the water temp goes up the hose connedtions have to be really GOOD or the pressure will cause them to leak.