Class C quality with heated underbelly, double pane windows.

[Artum_Snowbird]

We are looking for a quality rig, seems hard to find. We want nicely finished cabinets, enclosed underbelly, double pane windows, and yet not more than 28 feet long. We like to camp sometimes in the cold, but want the lower and upper beds too. All suggestions are appreciated.

[pnichols]

memtb wrote:
Autumn Snowbird, If you will be doing any boondocking, fresh water tank capacity is of much importance. I hate (well almost) to keep beating the Bigfoot drum, but... Bigfoot also had the highest capacity fresh tank of the class c’s ( that we researched)!

For comparison purposes, here's the specs on typical 2004 Bigfoot (click on "Specs") Class C motorhomes and current Lazy Daze Class C motorhomes. Note that Lazy Daze tank capacities are right in the ballpark with those of Bigfoot:

http://www.rvweb.com/guides/manufacturers/bigfoot_industries_inc./models/2004_3000_series_motorhome-...

http://www.lazydaze.com/FEATURES.PDF

(FWIW, our Winnebago Itasca 24 foot Class C capacites are FW=39 gal, GW=29 gal, and BW=39 gal.)

[rockhillmanor]

For the front an outside bonnet, inside windshield sunshade, and blanket to cover cab opening being sure it goes down past the coach floor to cover all the way to bottom of captains chairs in cab.

[rockhillmanor]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi Rockhillmanor,

I had Insulbright covers made for all windows, skylights and vents and for a cab separator. Storage becomes an issue pretty quickly.

I found a better way to help insulate side window s in the coach. Van size windshield sun shades just happen to fit perfectly behind the day night shades!! No Velcro no drilling holes. Just slip them behind the shades. And boy do they make a difference keeping the cold out and also the heat out in summer. If window is smaller you just fold one or two panels up.

Best part, the fold up flat. I had all five of mine folded and slipped behind driver's seat. No added storage room needed.

[memtb]

Autumn Snowbird, If you will be doing any boondocking, fresh water tank capacity is of much importance. I hate (well almost) to keep beating the Bigfoot drum, but... Bigfoot also had the highest capacity fresh tank of the class c’s ( that we researched)!

If you can spend some time on YouTube, you can learn a great deal about many of the class c’s available!

[memtb]

ctilsie242 wrote:
Triple E was a good class "C" maker, but they are history as of now, as the company is focusing on the (arguably) more lucrative B market.

If I were going for a cold weather "C", I'd look at a Phoenix Cruiser or Nexus RV. Then, I'd also see if they could add custom skirting, to reduce heat loss under the rig.

From my class "C" experience, I would see about making a foldable divider made with a Coroplast core, Reflectix on the cab side, and a thick blanket on the other side, which would go between the cab and the rest of the coach. This not just adds significant insulation, but helps deaden noise. Done right, it is easily moved out of the way, so the cab can be used for storage space.

Not sure about Nexus, but Phoenix did not have enclosed tanks ( I called). Can’t remember exactly, but, I believe that it was “on me” to enclose. Way much easier if designed that way originally!

Trying to keep “ non-enclosed” tanks warm in “cold” weather, is kinda like trying to heat your home with the doors and windows open!

[RambleOnNW]

Heated enclosed basements require far less energy to keep the tanks warm. Our rig has single pane windows but we section off the cab and have fitted reflectix panels for all windows that we keep in a roll under the bed. Have only dry camped to 20F with 20 MPH wind with no issues. Went colder on electricity and added a 100W clip lamp to enclosed wet bay which kept things warm.

Here is a current ad for a 2011 28 foot Triple E Regency 28GT which is the non-cabover version of what we were looking for. $73K:

https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2011-Triple-E-REGENCY-28GT-5000724336

Similar layout to our dual-slide Jayco without the cab-over.

[pnichols]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi Phil,

In truly cold weather heating pads cannot keep up with the heat loss. Enclosed tanks are a far better solution. Even so I find I need 250 watts of heat--and I used to use 600 watts.

Don,

For extreme cold, just have double pads installed on the bottom side of each tank. There's plenty of room on each tank bottom for two pads.

[pianotuna]

Hi Phil,

In truly cold weather heating pads can not keep up with the heat loss. Enclosed tanks are a far better solution. Even so I find I need 250 watts of heat--and I used to use 600 watts.

pnichols wrote:
heating pads onto any tanks exposed to the outside air temperatures. With heating pads on your tanks, all RV furnace air can be used to keep the inside of the coach warm instead of some of it being used to keep warmth around tanks.

[pnichols]

Mike (the OP),

I assume that during cold weather camping you're going to be on hookups or, if cold weather dry camping have a pretty good sized RV battery system and a generator to keep them charged?

If so just look for an RV - or have installed after you buy an RV - 12 volt DC powered (they are available as 120 volt AC powered or 12 volt DC powered) heating pads onto any tanks exposed to the outside air temperatures. With heating pads on your tanks, all RV furnace air can be used to keep the inside of the coach warm instead of some of it being used to keep warmth around tanks. The reason I say have "12 volt DC" pads installed is so you can use them during hookup or non-hookup camping - or when driving down the road without having to run the coach furnace ... which makes for an overall more flexible tank heating system.

The slightly warmed water from the tanks lying against the tank sides of the tank emptying valves keeps the emptying valves from freezing so you can operate the valves for tank emptying during cold weather.

To my thinking, tank heating pads is a superior way to keep your tanks' contents from freezing - over wasting precious coach furnace hot air and propane to keep your tanks from freezing. Besides, electricity is easier to find or make than propane is during either cold or hot weather. Why keep a whole volume around tanks warm with heated air when all that is necessary is to keep the liquid inside from freezing by merely having an area on the tank bottom kept warm via a flat, glued on, tough rubber material, built-in thermostatically controlled ... 12 volt electrical heating pad?

[ctilsie242]

Triple E was a good class "C" maker, but they are history as of now, as the company is focusing on the (arguably) more lucrative B market.

If I were going for a cold weather "C", I'd look at a Phoenix Cruiser or Nexus RV. Then, I'd also see if they could add custom skirting, to reduce heat loss under the rig.

From my class "C" experience, I would see about making a foldable divider made with a Coroplast core, Reflectix on the cab side, and a thick blanket on the other side, which would go between the cab and the rest of the coach. This not just adds significant insulation, but helps deaden noise. Done right, it is easily moved out of the way, so the cab can be used for storage space.

[pianotuna]

Hi Rockhillmanor,

I had Insulbright covers made for all windows, skylights and vents and for a cab separator. Storage becomes an issue pretty quickly.

memtb wrote:
rockhillmanor, Most who use motorhomes for cool/cold weather camping should use an insulated custom made curtain between the living quarters and driver area. Even a simple wool blanket (doubled, and done at home on a standard sewing machine), cut to fit, will offer a pretty good insulated wall!

[memtb]

rockhillmanor, Most who use motorhomes for cool/cold weather camping should use an insulated custom made curtain between the living quarters and driver area. Even a simple wool blanket (doubled, and done at home on a standard sewing machine), cut to fit, will offer a pretty good insulated wall!

For those who are “creatively challenged”, or do not have access to a sewing machine... I’m sure that the job could be “out-sourced”!

[rockhillmanor]

You can double pane, triple pane, quadruple pane the windows in the coach area, but you STILL have a single pane windshield and side windows in the cab. Which IS where ALL of the cold comes in. So imho its a moot point. :W

My advertised "heated" tanks on my first Class C turned out to be nothing more than they split my heat vent in the bedroom and sent half of the bedroom heat to my sewerage bay.

I found out that little tidbit when winter came and the bedroom was freezing cold with the furnace on high.....cause half the heat was going to warm my tanks.

Whatever you decide to buy when they say heated underbelly, heated tanks, heated anything?

Get on your hands and knees and LOOK at what they are calling heated and how. :C

[PghBob]

Consider a Lazy Daze 27 foot model (a couple different floor plans). The cabinets are first rate, no particle board. The windows are double pane standard, not optional. There is a queen size cab over bed and main floor couches/beds as well. I don't think the pipes are enclosed, but extra insulation is available as an option. Many on the west coast take theirs up into the Sierra for cold weather camping. Good luck with your search.