Class C that's easy to fix?

[et_cetera]

I am DIY person and looking for a class C that's easy to fix, by that I mean it has a truck-like, easily accessible engine bay. Think F250 engine bay and you got it. I had an older F250HD and everything was accessible, spark plugs were no issue at all. One could do water pump, belts, mostly anything. Now I never got inside the motor nor did any tranny work. I mean situations where the radiator hose bursts in the middle of nowhere, or a belt.

I get concerned about these van-type designs where repairs become considerably more difficult. As half the engine is not accessible.

[klutchdust]

pnichols wrote:
Hmmmm ... I wonder on Class C rigs if mechanics can merely remove the front wheels and then remove the metal liner on the engine side of the either wheel well (I think this sheet metal liner is bolted in/on) to easily get at the sides of the engine?

I had the exhaust manifold bolts replaced on our Class C's V10 engine and sure wish I'd asked the mechanic if the above is how he got access to those V10 manifold bolts.

Quite possibly he did that. My Pickup with the Duramax needed new glow plugs. I removed the inner fenders and it made the task much easier.

When servicing the engine I remove the inner fender on the right side to access the fuel filter.

A visit to my friends diesel repair shop and you may see Ford Pickups with their cabs lifted off of the chassis for removal of cylinder heads.

[Grit_dog]

I think et left the building.

[pnichols]

Hmmmm ... I wonder on Class C rigs if mechanics can merely remove the front wheels and then remove the metal liner on the engine side of the either wheel well (I think this sheet metal liner is bolted in/on) to easily get at the sides of the engine?

I had the exhaust manifold bolts replaced on our Class C's V10 engine and sure wish I'd asked the mechanic if the above is how he got access to those V10 manifold bolts.

[4x4van]

Well, I guess I should have expected it, this being the class C forum and all, but I sometimes wonder if those who claim how much easier class C's are to work on than class A's have actually ever tried it on both?

I've owned 2 class C's, both on E350 chassis, and they were both a nightmare to work on. The doghouse only exposes the rear 1/2 of the engine, the small hood only exposes the top front 1/4. The remaining 1/4 is blocked, top and sides, by the firewall, too far forward to reach from the back and too far back to reach from the front. Have fun getting the mid-point spark plugs on either side (one of my Cs actually had a section of the shock tower cut out with an acetylene torch by a previous owner to facilitate access to that plug). The other problem that the van cabs have (that trucks don't) is the fact that the floor is surrounding the rear of the engine, at the mid-engine level. Try replacing a broken exhaust manifold stud (a common occurrence) with barely 4" of clearance between that manifold and the gas pedal. Perhaps the newer Fords are better, but there is still the matter of the floor level being at about mid-engine level and the passenger compartment area for "feet" being next to the engine rather than above (like a class A) or behind (like a truck). That does not lend itself to easy engine access.

Working on MY class A (Workhorse chassis) on the other hand, is like stretching out in a large open air garage. The easily removed doghouse (one quarter-turn allen bolt) exposes the entire top of the engine from just behind the radiator to the trans, and both sides are fully accessible from the large wheel wells without even removing a tire; all sparkplugs and coils are easily visible and accessible, as are all of the exhaust manifold studs. The entire floor is above the engine, not at the mid-engine level. Oil change? I can literally sit nearly upright underneath with full access to the drain plug and filter, as there is no other "stuff" closely surrounding the engine/trans and the floor is higher than the C. Belts and hoses are a bit of a pain, but certainly not much worse than my class Cs.

Obviously, some class A's may be worse, but all class C's have tight working space around the drivetrain. The same blanket statement cannot be made about class A's.

[Matt_Colie]

Well Et,
This has been a really good thread and a lot of knowledgeable people contributed. What does bother me about a lot about your plan is RV elephant called structural rot. If you buy anything that has a hard corner roof, watch out.....

Few class Cs live long enough to need serious engine work. So that is just not an issue.

Most RVs are a type of construction often referred to as "stick and staple". That does not sound very substantial does it?? Well it isn't. Want an example? Go to Camper Woman and read. She bought a TT that looked real good. It turns out that it only needs everything above the frame....
Most RVs that are this construction have this problem. They were built to last 10~15 years. If you manage to acquire something this age, be ready for an interesting time. At about this age, all the rubber parts are shot. So, if the house is good, no big problem. Just plan to replace all the hoses and belts. This means brake and fuel as well as all the coolant hoses. While you are at this, flush the coolant and the brake fluid. This will kind of happen automatically when you take the hoses out. The coolants anti-corrosives will be depleted, and the brake fluid will probably have moisture in it. Cost?? If you do it yourself? All told less than one thousand dollars - typically (Most in my circle have done this at least once.)

Regular maintenance is essential for reliability.

Our coach is a real odd-man-out. It is 48yo and now on the second overhaul of the engine at about 170k. It should not have needed it, but it broke a piston. It still needs very regular maintenance. Grease is cheaper than parts.....

Matt

[fourthclassC]

Just my 2 cents here. Never worked on class A but have heard they are harder to work on (engine bay at least) then class C. Class C is not too bad but more time consuming because you may have to go from dog house inside to outside more. One thing that comes to mind for this discussion, don't think the class C engine bay is that bad once the air cleaner set up is removed as it blocks all access to the front of the engine. (belts, alternator, water pump....) There are very few class C with pick up truck chassis (Scotty Sero comes to mind) and they are very desirable and expensive. like stated on a class C removing the air filter set up make working on the engine much more reasonable

[klutchdust]

Chum lee wrote:

et cetera wrote:
I am DIY person and looking for a class C that's easy to fix, by that I mean it has a truck-like, easily accessible engine bay. Think F250 engine bay and you got it. I had an older F250HD and everything was accessible, spark plugs were no issue at all. One could do water pump, belts, mostly anything. Now I never got inside the motor nor did any tranny work. I mean situations where the radiator hose bursts in the middle of nowhere, or a belt.

I get concerned about these van-type designs where repairs become considerably more difficult. As half the engine is not accessible.

Whenever you talk DIY on a truck chassis, IMO, it's ALWAYS about having the right tools for the job because of the size/weight/time. (IMO, everything is easier when you do) Look at any professional commercial truck repair facility. The Pro's ALWAYS have pneumatic/hydraulic/electric repair tools including lifts, pits, compressors, jacks, presses, pullers, pumps, special wrenches, machine tools, welders, appropriate tempered/sheltered space, etc., the list goes on and on. As a DIY'er, (I'm one too) on the road, most often, you don't have the benefits of those tools. That doesn't mean you can't "Git 'er done" . . . . just that it will be more difficult with the limited array tools you "DO" have. IMO, with patience, persistence, creativity, a little cash, experience, internet, . . . . you can do just about anything cheaply, . . . just not as fast as the pro's.

Chum lee

Minus the lift I have most of what you mentioned and I'm a DIy'er. Having wrenched for a career tools do accumulate. What is important to remember and perform is regular maintenance. Before a trip my rigs go from back yard to front driveway. I get on a creeper with a flashlight and spend some time just looking and checking. I found worn out suspension bumpers on my TV and replaced them last week. If level block wheels ,put in neutral and tug on the u joints. A few zip ties always get used for loose or broken wire looms fasteners. Doing this eliminates a lot of possibilities once you hit the road. I carry basic tools and some fasteners ,quick set epoxy is very handy. Pilots tug and pull and check before take off, I do too.

[ron_dittmer]

I don't disagree with Chum Lee.

At the same time I need to say that my standard automotive tools apply well at home concerning our E350 motor home with only two special considerations.

1) Have a floor jack rated strong enough to lift any corner of your rig.
2) Have jack stands that are rated for that same weight.

Of coarse it is wise to have extra margin. If you need a 3 ton floor jack, buy a 4 ton, and so on with jack stands.

When I need to lift a rear corner, I use the 6 ton bottle jack that came with the rig. When I need to lift my 3200 pound front, I use my 2-1/4 ton (4500 lb) rolling floor jack. I have two pairs of jack stands. I would not use the one pair because they are "lighter duty" with a small base.

[Chum_lee]

et cetera wrote:
I am DIY person and looking for a class C that's easy to fix, by that I mean it has a truck-like, easily accessible engine bay. Think F250 engine bay and you got it. I had an older F250HD and everything was accessible, spark plugs were no issue at all. One could do water pump, belts, mostly anything. Now I never got inside the motor nor did any tranny work. I mean situations where the radiator hose bursts in the middle of nowhere, or a belt.

I get concerned about these van-type designs where repairs become considerably more difficult. As half the engine is not accessible.

Whenever you talk DIY on a truck chassis, IMO, it's ALWAYS about having the right tools for the job because of the size/weight/time. (IMO, everything is easier when you do) Look at any professional commercial truck repair facility. The Pro's ALWAYS have pneumatic/hydraulic/electric repair tools including lifts, pits, hoists, compressors, jacks, presses, pullers, pumps, special wrenches, machine tools, mills, drill presses, lathes, power washers, solvent tanks, welders, appropriate tempered/sheltered space, etc., the list goes on and on. As a DIY'er, (Now, I'm one too) on the road, most often, you don't have the benefits of all those tools. That doesn't mean you can't "Git 'er done" . . . . just that it will be more difficult with the limited array tools you "DO" have. IMO, with patience, persistence, creativity, help from a few friendly hands, factory service manuals, a little cash, experience, internet, . . . . you can do just about anything cheaply, . . . just not as fast as the pro's. So, . . . . if you're in a hurry, . . . IGNORE THIS POST.

Chum lee

[ron_dittmer]

et cetera,

I did not read through all the posts, but I wanted to provide my opinion and experience.

Our first motor home HERE was built on a Toyota pickup truck chassis that we owned for 24 years. One of the things I appreciated was easy access to the engine. But as time passed, my priorities transitioned from "easy mechanical maintenance" to "we want maximum house". When we replaced that tiny little rig, we went with a 2007 Ford E350 based rig HERE that provided the most house for the shortest van front. The following year, Ford restyled the E-series which added 3 inches forward, a critical 3" that would not allow me to walk around the rig when parked in our garage.

I dismissed a class-A primarily because the rig had to fit in our garage, but I have other issues with them.

Where I volunteer as a mechanic at an auto charity, I worked on a few old class A's and they are a serious pain to work on. I will take a mass-produced class C van chassis over any "kit" class A any day. Not only are they not designed with consideration to maintenance & repair, but they are built with inferior metals that rust badly. Disassembling anything often results in fabricating body panel brackets because the originals were rusted away so badly. Replacing a radiator is nearly impossible. Current-day class-A's, in some cases you have to remove the entire face of the motor home (windshield and all) to replace the radiator.

So if you are looking for "ease of maintenance" a class-A should "NOT" be a consideration.

As intimidating as a van chassis appears, they really are not bad. Interference items are fairly easily removed for access to the work area. Auto manufactures design automobiles with that consideration. Now I will admit, there have been a few bad apples, but the standard Ford and Chevy vans are not one of them.

So when considering a pickup truck front versus a van front, do you want 3 feet more hood, or 3 feet more house. After a while, you will likely opt for more of what you bought the rig for, enjoying it's comforts. Your wife will appreciate it all the more. If you wonder, 3 feet of extra house is "A Lot" of extra comfort.

There is also one additional consideration pickup or van. The van is easy to enter and exit from inside the house. It's harder in a pickup truck.

The van design has monumental advantages that apply directly to general comfort. More house and easy entry & exit from within. For 98% of people, that supersedes easier repairs.

[Grit_dog]

et cetera wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
A few things to consider. And yes I read you other thread too.

Or to sum it up, best value is get a big pickup and then you can get any type of trailer you want. Get a cheap throwaway for the short term, build credit with a truck loan, still have a large living area and not spend much on the fist RV. $10k for a trailer will get you a very nice trailer and you'll have the configuration (a full truck hood) that you started the thread with.

Interesting points you make. I have struggled with this option for years. A heavy duty TV (such as F250 HD or whatever) plus a TT or a RV with a toad.

It is an interesting idea, to just get a heavy duty 3/4 ton and a throw-away camper would be great at this point and later on get what I really want, either a Fifth or something else. And there is nothing wrong at all with a classy Airstream, one can certainly do a lot worse than that. Late 90's one that's wide body should be in my price range.
It's nice to have that kind of flexibility. An RV both gives and reduces options. That is, you are married to the drivetrain it comes with. Not sure I am thrilled with that concept.

Once I park the rig for 6 months, I have the flexibility of using TV as a DD. My commute is not huge so it's cheaper to use a single vehicle versus getting a cheaper econobox with great MPG. I already ran these numbers.

Not unlike most decisions, different options have different advantages and drawbacks.

[klutchdust]

et cetera wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
A few things to consider. And yes I read you other thread too.

Or to sum it up, best value is get a big pickup and then you can get any type of trailer you want. Get a cheap throwaway for the short term, build credit with a truck loan, still have a large living area and not spend much on the fist RV. $10k for a trailer will get you a very nice trailer and you'll have the configuration (a full truck hood) that you started the thread with.

Interesting points you make. I have struggled with this option for years. A heavy duty TV (such as F250 HD or whatever) plus a TT or a RV with a toad.

It is an interesting idea, to just get a heavy duty 3/4 ton and a throw-away camper would be great at this point and later on get what I really want, either a Fifth or something else. And there is nothing wrong at all with a classy Airstream, one can certainly do a lot worse than that. Late 90's one that's wide body should be in my price range.
It's nice to have that kind of flexibility. An RV both gives and reduces options. That is, you are married to the drivetrain it comes with. Not sure I am thrilled with that concept.

Once I park the rig for 6 months, I have the flexibility of using TV as a DD. My commute is not huge so it's cheaper to use a single vehicle versus getting a cheaper econobox with great MPG. I already ran these numbers.

If you have a TV then put it to work. My 2500 sat for awhile while I drove my Class c. Sold the C and got a toy hauler,Forest River work and play with enough room for a side by side. It's built like a tank and weighs as much as one. I drop the trailer then go off fishing etc.
With my c I towed my Jeep instead. Times and needs change, adjust accordingly.

[et_cetera]

Grit dog wrote:
A few things to consider. And yes I read you other thread too.

Or to sum it up, best value is get a big pickup and then you can get any type of trailer you want. Get a cheap throwaway for the short term, build credit with a truck loan, still have a large living area and not spend much on the fist RV. $10k for a trailer will get you a very nice trailer and you'll have the configuration (a full truck hood) that you started the thread with.

Interesting points you make. I have struggled with this option for years. A heavy duty TV (such as F250 HD or whatever) plus a TT or a RV with a toad.

It is an interesting idea, to just get a heavy duty 3/4 ton and a throw-away camper would be great at this point and later on get what I really want, either a Fifth or something else. And there is nothing wrong at all with a classy Airstream, one can certainly do a lot worse than that. Late 90's one that's wide body should be in my price range.
It's nice to have that kind of flexibility. An RV both gives and reduces options. That is, you are married to the drivetrain it comes with. Not sure I am thrilled with that concept.

Once I park the rig for 6 months, I have the flexibility of using TV as a DD. My commute is not huge so it's cheaper to use a single vehicle versus getting a cheaper econobox with great MPG. I already ran these numbers.

[kwplot34]

The Thor omni/magnitude motor homes are Super C's and are on the Ford F 550 chassis, not a gas engine but have the 6.7L diesel and have 4X4. I have the XG32 and really like it.

[Tiger4x4RV]

et cetera wrote:
are there any class C with a truck front, not a van front?

Tiger is built on a stock chassis. I get mine serviced at the local Chevy truck dealer. The mechanics say it is the coolest thing they've ever seen on a Chevy chassis.