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Door Won’t Open

CJOnTheRoad
Explorer
Explorer
We have a 2005 Beaver Monterey and just came back from having our door handle and locks replaced at Beaver Motor Coach Sales. After only a handful of uses it is now not working and we can’t get into the motor home. The door wasn’t locked but it won’t open and the paddle handle is very loose. All windows are locked up. I searched online for a damage-free way of getting inside and could only find one old forum query from 2010 (posted by Rhyph) on the exact same issue. It can no longer be accessed through the forum however and the solution used was apparently sent in a PM. I suspect it may have something to do with opening the emergency window from the outside(?) All other suggestions involved drilling, locksmiths or removing the skylight and the poster commented that it was done both by themself and damage free.

Any suggestions? We are new to Class A’s and the forum. The emergency window is the bedroom horizontal slider with hinge on top, and inside has the slider latch and two red lever latches on either side.

Thanks,
CJ
16 REPLIES 16

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
bob_nestor wrote:


I'm on my 3rd one of these darned things. Guess you drilled out the factory rivets to install the new steel bolt? Luckily I've always been able to get inside so I can remove the screws hold the lock mechanism together in the door though.


There were no rivets on mine just screws.. I opened it up. Removed it from the door.. Took the pieces of the broken bolt to a metal smith and he made me a new one.. While he was working on it I used the deadbolt only

Had the same issue with basement locks.. My opinion of tri-mark locks.. Well I don't wish to melt your monitor with the language i need to properly experess it.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Rick_Jay
Explorer II
Explorer II
Wow!!! That's GREAT NEWS!!!! Glad to hear it all worked out.

And thanks for posting your solution!

~Rick
2005 Georgie Boy Cruise Master 3625 DS on a Workhorse W-22
Rick, Gail, 1 girl (27-Angel since 2008), 1 girl (22), 2 boys (23 & 20).
2001 Honda Odyssey, Demco Aluminator tow bar & tow plate, SMI Silent Partner brake controller.

CJOnTheRoad
Explorer
Explorer
We somehow got in! A combination of trying to press in on the striker bolt and then pushing and pulling on the door and repeatedly locking and unlocking with the fob. None worked by themselves but together they did. First thing I did was unlock two big windows in case it happens again.

Thanks for all of your suggestions! We should have joined the forum when we first bought the rig to find out about the entry issues from all of you. Lesson learned (cheaply this time). Have a great day.

CJOnTheRoad
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you! I hope to have this resolved today. On my way to get the shower hooks now.

Rick_Jay
Explorer II
Explorer II
CJOnTheRoad,

The repair kit available on E-Bay is this one: Tri-Mark Replacement Door Bolt

I don't know if it'll fit your lock. You'll need to check the actual model number of the lock to determine that. The price has risen over the years, but it's still money well spent if it'll fix your problem.

Good Luck and please make sure to let us know how things turn out!

~Rick
2005 Georgie Boy Cruise Master 3625 DS on a Workhorse W-22
Rick, Gail, 1 girl (27-Angel since 2008), 1 girl (22), 2 boys (23 & 20).
2001 Honda Odyssey, Demco Aluminator tow bar & tow plate, SMI Silent Partner brake controller.

CJOnTheRoad
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks so much. I believe it is a TriMark 030-1400 paddle lock. I’ll go get some of those curtain hooks and see if I can make it work! If not, then a call to Beaver for help somehow and as a last resort, drilling a hole into the window frame.

We will definitely be leaving something unlocked in the future! We thought we were being proactive in having new lock parts put in when the original setup was hard to pull open.

bob_nestor
Explorer III
Explorer III
wa8yxm wrote:
Is this a TRI-MARK lock?

What can happen and from what you said it sounds like it is the striker bolt breaks. The highest tress point is the thinnest point on the bolt.

I then took the two parts of the bolt to a metal smith and had him carve me one out of steel instead of the **** tri-mark uses.


I'm on my 3rd one of these darned things. Guess you drilled out the factory rivets to install the new steel bolt? Luckily I've always been able to get inside so I can remove the screws hold the lock mechanism together in the door though.

Rick_Jay
Explorer II
Explorer II
I would call the RV Dealer that did the work on the rig and ask what they recommend. Will they step up and pay for the cost of a locksmith to open and replace/repair the lock?

Be polite and professional.

If they refuse to do anything, then I guess you'll just be on the hook for hiring & paying the lock smith.

Your current situation is one of the reasons I like having a separate entry door by the driver on our rig. But in lieu of that, I'd leave one of the larger slider windows unlocked whenever you leave the rig, just in case this happens again. If this IS one of those Tri-Mark locks...it most likely WILL happen again. Though there was a guy on E-Bay that sold steel lock bolts to replace the pot-metal parts Tri-Mark used. I installed it on our lock the second time it broke, and haven't had a problem since. But I don't know if they would work on your lock.

Good Luck,

~Rick
2005 Georgie Boy Cruise Master 3625 DS on a Workhorse W-22
Rick, Gail, 1 girl (27-Angel since 2008), 1 girl (22), 2 boys (23 & 20).
2001 Honda Odyssey, Demco Aluminator tow bar & tow plate, SMI Silent Partner brake controller.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Is this a TRI-MARK lock?

What can happen and from what you said it sounds like it is the striker bolt breaks. The highest tress point is the thinnest point on the bolt.

Now I've seen someone take a shower curtain hanger and get in and depress the bolt without damage

I then took the two parts of the bolt to a metal smith and had him carve me one out of steel instead of the **** tri-mark uses.

The type of shower curtain ring he used. well he unbent it some
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

CJOnTheRoad
Explorer
Explorer
Our problem with Beaver is that we are now back in Canada, but we may have to try and get them to do something. Perhaps at least a refund on the service.

I will see about the window frame hole though. It might be a good idea to have. I’ll just have to verify exactly where to drill.

Thanks

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
On some window latches like mine you can drill a small hole and then use a nail to move the latch. A no damage solution. Some have done this as a backup emergency entrance solution.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

diplomatdon
Explorer
Explorer
I'd phone Beaver Motor Coach and make them pay for a service call. I suggest you join IRV2 Monaco Forum as there is all sorts of help on adjusting the linkage once you get into the coach. Sounds like some of the linkage has come apart or loose. Ask there and you will likely find a solution. Good luck, Don.

CJOnTheRoad
Explorer
Explorer
I did try that and tried locking with the fob and unlocking all while pushing the door in. No luck. When I try to lock with the fob it certainly doesn’t sound like it did when it was working. A more abrupt click.

LadyRVer
Explorer II
Explorer II
Can you push in on the door some and just maybe???