DTC codes

rgatijnet1 wrote:

udidwht wrote:
Ive confirmed that 68 is Trans lip on this rig. But 71 appears related to a 94 diesel cruise control item.

35 is related to the IAC but I replaced both the IAC and the idle speed control actuator last year. I have checked for vac leaks. None found and engine idles nicely with no issues. The air conditioner works nice as well.

As for the trans code it also showed during my return trip home when I had Jerrys Clutch & Trans in Grants Pass, Or. resolve my limp mode. Both shift solenoids were replaced along with a new internal wire harness and he turned the force actuator up 1/2 turn. The codes pulled then were:

68 Trans slip
87 Shift solenoid A

I did replace my ignition switch the other day. While looking over the old one I found the orange wire was not seated all the way into the connector. When I grabbed it, it came out easily with close to no effort.

So the new switch is in and wires are all connected well. Seems to have had a positive effect on what I originally believe was a wonky temp gauge sensor. There were times when the dash gauge were read higher than I knew the engine was while trending with my IR gun.

For instance....IR would show 195-205 at T-stat housing yet dash gauge would show230-240. I know the dash gauge is far from perfect and its normal to have it go to 220-230; after a highway run or grade pull then exiting the highway. But that wasn't the case with mine. It would do this after just driving around town with little load on the engine.

Now that I have the switch in that seems to only happen after a highway run but recovers after a bit. The sensors work off resistance measurement any added via wonky wire connection can effect their readings.

During highway runs the temp hovers between 210 to half a needle to the right of 210. Im running a stock 195f T-stat. I just replaced all my hoses and installed a new t-stat Delco about 3-4; weeks ago.

With the age of your coach, I would suggest a thorough flush of the exterior of the radiator. Unless this has been done frequently in the past, road debris, dirt, corrosion can form between the fins and decrease the cooling capacity of your radiator.

I used 2 cans of condenser coil cleaner on the A/C condenser and radiator. Both are nice and clean. Nothing IR gun reading wise leads me to believe it's related to radiator given readings are normal.

Just drove from Seattle to Lynden, Wa. and the dash readings during the drive (flats) ranged from a half needle width to the left of 210 (middle) to 1/2 needle width to the right of 210 or so. After the highway run (exiting) it would creep up to ~ 220 (heat-soak ) but hold then recover after a bit of town driving.

The recovery bottle shows no signs of overheating. such as very full of overflowing. After that drive it was half way or so between 'Full cold and Full hot'. Once the RV was stone cold the recovery bottle was right on 'Full cold mark'.

I replaced the A/C aux fan motor a month or so ago after noticing the old motor was was not working. It's works great now. The fan according to service manual (1994) is designed to come on at approximately 221F degrees. The sensor for it is located in the passenger side cylinder head.