Dual Alternators for A/C Removal, newbie
Good morning everyone! I'm joe, new to the forum. To give a super quick backstory, I bought a 87 Minnie Winnie for $500 about a year ago, it was stripped and a leaky mess. 1 year later, me and my girl...
Forum Discussion
Wow thanks for the continuing answers everyone.
Rick Jay - I've got a set of gauges, just never worked with the r12 before. Its pretty intact from what I can tell, I removed the cooler and condenser in preperation to remove the engine. I think i'll test out the system, and as long as no leaks or hard to find leaks i'll do the conversion like birdfreak had mentioned. If there are issues, I guess it'll be up to how many issues I run into. I found a few 4000w generators online used for a couple hundred, that I could make work (safely). I really gotta do some more researching and price out my options! hah
Harvey - Anything 1996 and older uses r12, so you do apply. I have read now that some vehicles' compressors are able to accept the r134a with little to no issues. Some cant handle the high pressures generated by r134a and kick the bucket. Its worth a shot if its not going to cost much to try. If I really don't have to replace anything other than o rings and the high / low service ports, that is the cheapest. I'll go to autozone after work today and check it out.
DownTheAvenue - Is there really?? Wow. thats great to know! I wonder how much they cost haha. Another thing to look into. That lessens the stress on the battery bank / inverter while the rig is running.
CharlesinGA - Yes i'm EFI. No 4 barrel carb for me. 1987 e350 1 ton with 7.5 EFI's make up on 3% of all sold in 87' (according to autozone). lucky me. Finding parts can sometimes be difficult, though 88 and 89 are pretty much identical. 91' is when i find part numbers don't interchange. I did a compression test on all 8 cylinders, sadly there was only a 15 PSI variance between all 8. What I did find was finally after draining the radiator, I found large sludgy/oily globs in the bottom. While the rig smoked it never smelled of coolant, the coolant was always bright green, and the oil was always brown/black but not chocolate milk looking. I recently got a knocking noise when starting the motor, suggesting internals, oil pump/pressure/delivery/ or the transmission flexplate (from what ive found on forums) so instead of trying to take it apart inside the RV it was easier to pick up a running motor($380) with similar mileage(53,000), change out everything on a bench and swap that one in. The current motor i'll put on CL. Ive heard they are true workhorses and will last if they are taken care of properly. I considered at one point throwing in the 7.3 or 6.9 IDI but that seems like more trouble then its worth. For 1 MPG, for me not worth the cost / labor. Maybe if I fulltimed but to each their own.
Rick Jay - I've got a set of gauges, just never worked with the r12 before. Its pretty intact from what I can tell, I removed the cooler and condenser in preperation to remove the engine. I think i'll test out the system, and as long as no leaks or hard to find leaks i'll do the conversion like birdfreak had mentioned. If there are issues, I guess it'll be up to how many issues I run into. I found a few 4000w generators online used for a couple hundred, that I could make work (safely). I really gotta do some more researching and price out my options! hah
Harvey - Anything 1996 and older uses r12, so you do apply. I have read now that some vehicles' compressors are able to accept the r134a with little to no issues. Some cant handle the high pressures generated by r134a and kick the bucket. Its worth a shot if its not going to cost much to try. If I really don't have to replace anything other than o rings and the high / low service ports, that is the cheapest. I'll go to autozone after work today and check it out.
DownTheAvenue - Is there really?? Wow. thats great to know! I wonder how much they cost haha. Another thing to look into. That lessens the stress on the battery bank / inverter while the rig is running.
CharlesinGA - Yes i'm EFI. No 4 barrel carb for me. 1987 e350 1 ton with 7.5 EFI's make up on 3% of all sold in 87' (according to autozone). lucky me. Finding parts can sometimes be difficult, though 88 and 89 are pretty much identical. 91' is when i find part numbers don't interchange. I did a compression test on all 8 cylinders, sadly there was only a 15 PSI variance between all 8. What I did find was finally after draining the radiator, I found large sludgy/oily globs in the bottom. While the rig smoked it never smelled of coolant, the coolant was always bright green, and the oil was always brown/black but not chocolate milk looking. I recently got a knocking noise when starting the motor, suggesting internals, oil pump/pressure/delivery/ or the transmission flexplate (from what ive found on forums) so instead of trying to take it apart inside the RV it was easier to pick up a running motor($380) with similar mileage(53,000), change out everything on a bench and swap that one in. The current motor i'll put on CL. Ive heard they are true workhorses and will last if they are taken care of properly. I considered at one point throwing in the 7.3 or 6.9 IDI but that seems like more trouble then its worth. For 1 MPG, for me not worth the cost / labor. Maybe if I fulltimed but to each their own.
