Let me say again:
JUST GET SOMETHING THAT WON'T LET YOU DOWN!
OK - Here's a cheap fix:
Get Straight Metal Valve Stems
![](http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21Anbde2+CL._AA160_.jpg)
And Air-Through Caps
![](http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41BAY96U5fL._AA160_.jpg)
Put'em on all Six or Seven (if you've got a Spare) Wheels. You just need to remember you'll need TRUCK type Air Gauge and Air Chuck. The "straight" kind that are configured like this:
![](http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21SJwZDcO2L._AA160_.jpg)
Not the more common angled one like this:
![](http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31Buz9CgE8L._AA160_.jpg)
The STRAIGHT will pass through Dicor Simulators on the common 10-hole Ford wheels. Push straight onto the inner valve cap and pull back onto the outer.
Gene was fortunate. The truck shops I checked at couldn't give me what Gene got.
The fix I show here will also meet the wishes of those who want to rotate all their tires. I don't. I'm willing to leave the rear duals in place and rotate my spare with the two fronts.
Two cautions:
1. Domestic "Big Trucks" use a .625" hole in the wheel for the valve. Class C's, Cars, Pickups, etc. use .453". Some valves come with both gaskets, just be sure what you get fits .453".
2. On Ford Class C wheels, a 1-1/2" metal valve will NOT let you put even a truck air gauge onto the valve. The shape of the RIM interferes. You don't notice with Rubber valves since they'll flex. The custom guys (BORG, TM) sell Angled Front valves. If you use 2" valves, you're OK. OR... 1.5" + those Air Through Caps.
But remember this:
Friends Don't Let Friends Use Rubber Tire Valves!!!
Nope, not even with no extenders. That's how we got our Jayco, and I heard leaks just putting the gauge onto the fronts.